FLOATER FISHING NEAR SNAGS???

[BURTON]

yer well thanks gaffer maybe if i try and get them feeding away from the snags as possible i might have a chance they do go up to 20lb but theres only a few this size in there the average size is about 7lb just they fight so hard.

[Jim Gibbinson]

You need a lighter rod than others have recommended: 1.75 to 2.25lb T/C. 12lb line is okay - definitely mono as it has a degree of inherent stretch. In dangerous situations (i.e. near reeds etc.) use barbless hooks (Kamasan Animal or B981, size 8). And most important of all, hold the rod at all times (and fish with the pick-up engaged) ready for an instant strike as soon as the line zips tight. Carp of the size you are talking about can be landed quite easily on such an outfit - and if you fish as I suggest you'll be able to hold them out of the reeds or, at the very least, prevent them diving in too far.

 

The foregoing applies to carp averaging low to mid-doubles; if they average larger you might need to use 15lb line - stick with the 2.25lb rod though. Kamasan Animal are the best hooks in this case.

 

Advice to use heavier rods and braid, while well-intentioned is misguided.

[Elton]

To add to what Gaffer is saying, and to what Burton has suggested....

 

I have seen very experienced carp anglers pack up and go when faced with similar experiences. There are times when it is better to say, "Yes, fish are there, but it's not safe to target them."

 

However, Burton's suggestion of getting them to feed away from the snags is a good one. You'd need to be at a safe distance to feel confident of turning them away from the snags, once hooked.

 

Good luck - let us know how you get on.

[Newt]

Jim Gibbinson:

You need a lighter rod than others have recommended: 1.75 to 2.25lb T/C. 12lb line is okay - definitely mono as it has a degree of inherent stretch.

 

Advice to use heavier rods and braid, while well-intentioned is misguided.

Interesting Jim. Could you please explain your reasoning.

 

It seems a little contrary to common sense but that's often the case for me when I don't really understand the 'whys'.

[Andrew Burgess]

BURTON:

yer well thanks gaffer maybe if i try and get them feeding away from the snags as possible i might have a chance they do go up to 20lb but theres only a few this size in there the average size is about 7lb just they fight so hard.

Burton, I got something simailar to my pool and bullrushes as well, again the carp go up to 25lb and again 7lb they do fight hard as well.

 

This is my set up for surface fishing John Wilson Lure Rod/Stalker, 9ft rod 2lb Test curve, with 15lb Maxima line, An ESP 15grams controller with a 12lb hoolenght with a size 8 hook

 

Make sure the the main line is well grease right up the last 6" of the hooklenght.

 

Never had any trouble with this set up when pulling out the carp especailly when fishing near bullrushes.

[fantasticfisherman]

Jim Gibbinson:

You need a lighter rod than others have recommended: 1.75 to 2.25lb T/C. 12lb line is okay - definitely mono as it has a degree of inherent stretch. In dangerous situations (i.e. near reeds etc.) use barbless hooks (Kamasan Animal or B981, size 8). And most important of all, hold the rod at all times (and fish with the pick-up engaged) ready for an instant strike as soon as the line zips tight. Carp of the size you are talking about can be landed quite easily on such an outfit - and if you fish as I suggest you'll be able to hold them out of the reeds or, at the very least, prevent them diving in too far.

 

The foregoing applies to carp averaging low to mid-doubles; if they average larger you might need to use 15lb line - stick with the 2.25lb rod though. Kamasan Animal are the best hooks in this case.

 

Advice to use heavier rods and braid, while well-intentioned is misguided.

IMO i would go for heavier tackle especially the rod. a rod with a bit of backbone is what is needed to turn the carp away from the snags.

 

[ 23. July 2005, 06:50 PM: Message edited by: fantasticfisherman formely mr. bean ]

[Jim Gibbinson]

I don't want to get into a long debate about this - I've merely responded to a request and offered advice, which people can accept or reject as they think appropriate. I shall, however, reply to the request for more information regarding my suggestion that a light-ish (1.75-2.25lb TC)rod be used.

 

First, the lighter rod has a cushioning effect that helps absorb the carp's more violent lunges.

 

Second - and I concede this seems illogical, but it's so - as a light-ish rod bends, so its effective length is shortened, thereby enabling the angler to apply more force. A stiffer, heavier rod actually puts the angler at a mechanical disadvantage (parallelogram of forces). On several occasions, I've demonstrated at lectures, how a nine-weight fly rod can apply as much "pull" to a spring balance as a 4oz casting-weight beachcaster. On the face of it, it makes little sense - but you can't argue with physics.

 

Back to carp adjacent to reeds etc. I've caught a great many carp - some big ones, too - in this situation, so I'm offering suggestions based on practice, not just theory. Again, I repeat what I said earlier, the most important requirement is that they be struck immediately the take gets underway - this brings them under control before they have the opportunity to dive into the reeds.

 

But as I said, I'm not going to get into a debate about it - accept or reject. Your choice.

[Newt]

Thanks for a factual and interesting reply Jim.

 

I fish light action rods as a matter of personal preference and try to use the minimum T/C that will work with the weight and distance I need to cast. I've noticed they all seem to do fine with fish (except in a few special circumstances) but never really understood just how.

 

Your post helps make some sense of it.

 

[ 24. July 2005, 12:46 PM: Message edited by: Newt ]

[Gaffer]

Jim Gibbinson:

....as a light-ish rod bends, so its effective length is shortened, thereby enabling the angler to apply more force.

And with a shortened rod, which is at full test curve, you've got no room for manoeurve in terms of backbone for power and the length for cushioning, surely? :confused: Also with a short(ened) rod you lose your 'steering' ability - physics proves that too!

 

Jim Gibbinson:

But as I said, I'm not going to get into a debate about it - accept or reject. Your choice.

Isn't that what these forums are for, debating and learning, rather than just accepting or rejecting? :confused:

[jim doyle]

I have to agree with Jim, I tend to stalk carp more than just sit and wait, the best fish on a fly rod went 21lb , it came from the middle of a tree. Having hooked it I never let it take line, just kept changeing its direction every time it tried to run. I tend to use owner hooks as they,ve never let me down. The fly rod is a 9ft 6in Thomas+ Thomas, it,s a fairly through action rod with a thick wall slow taper construction. If I can,t get close enough,or theres no room for a back cast I use a Drennan "Light Carp" with 10lb "berkely gold " or sometimes a 12ft drennan super specialist. I have yet to loose a carp on any of these set ups in snags. My best snag fish is 28lb, but the fly caught one gave me the most pleasure as some one was standing telling me you cant catch them off the top here, well that one took a dog biscuit as good as gold. When your fishing snags you have to have a plan and make the fish stick to it, stay on top of the fish at all times and decide before you cast where you are going to land your fish,theres no point hooking it not knowing where your going to land it. If you can see the fish and freeline a bait to it so much the better, it,s far easier than having a great lump of lead hanging from your line. Make sure the lead can release it,s self from the line it,s the most likly thing to get snagged.