Pike Tippet

[Leon Roskilly]

As an experienced lure-angler what I've found frustrating is after a difficult and hazardous cast to a small area that cries out 'pike' (ie the branches of a far bank fallen tree), within a few turns of the reel the lure is well away from where I expect a pike lays in ambush.

 

Yes a few moments of twitching a jerk-bait as it floats on the surface and before I begin the retrieve can sometimes bring results, but the nature is that the lure will spend the greater time fishing the water between the feature and the casting position than the target area.

 

Now what I like about fly-fishing is that in these circumstances, after the fly has been twitched away a metre or two, a roll-cast puts it right back into the target area which can be more fully explored without successive long retrieves before a re-cast.

 

So, I'm twitching to start using the technique with some pike-flies that have sat in my lure boxes for many a year, previously used only for dapping with a lure rod.

 

Which now brings me to my question.

 

I will of course be using a fine-wire trace of multi-strand steel or titanium for a tippet, but how to attach the tippet to a leader and the fly?

 

Rather than using a basic lure-trace with 'heavy' swivels (attached with a 1.5 turn single-tuck blood-knot) which I would guess add unwanted weight, should the wire tippet be knotted directly to the fly and leader, perhaps with a rig-ring between leader and tippet?

 

And what length wire should I use? (I normally use a trace of at least 18" when lure fishing).

[Worms]

As an experienced lure-angler what I've found frustrating is after a difficult and hazardous cast to a small area that cries out 'pike' (ie the branches of a far bank fallen tree), within a few turns of the reel the lure is well away from where I expect a pike lays in ambush.

 

Yes a few moments of twitching a jerk-bait as it floats on the surface and before I begin the retrieve can sometimes bring results, but the nature is that the lure will spend the greater time fishing the water between the feature and the casting position than the target area.

 

Now what I like about fly-fishing is that in these circumstances, after the fly has been twitched away a metre or two, a roll-cast puts it right back into the target area which can be more fully explored without successive long retrieves before a re-cast.

 

So, I'm twitching to start using the technique with some pike-flies that have sat in my lure boxes for many a year, previously used only for dapping with a lure rod.

 

Which now brings me to my question.

 

I will of course be using a fine-wire trace of multi-strand steel or titanium for a tippet, but how to attach the tippet to a leader and the fly?

 

Rather than using a basic lure-trace with 'heavy' swivels (attached with a 1.5 turn single-tuck blood-knot) which I would guess add unwanted weight, should the wire tippet be knotted directly to the fly and leader, perhaps with a rig-ring between leader and tippet?

 

And what length wire should I use? (I normally use a trace of at least 18" when lure fishing).

I use a 9-12"max length of knottable trace (I'm currently using Proleader braid and stainless wire combined) tied to the fly direct and to the leader with a rig ring as you suggest.

 

I'm considering changing to Surflon knottable wire for sea and freshwater use or maybe single strand wire for shark fly fishing.

[Steve Walker]

These knotable armoured braid products seem very popular with the pike fly fishing community;

 

http://www.puresaltwater.co.uk/snowbee-pro-leader.html

 

http://www.sportfish.co.uk/product/tuf-leader-knotable-wire

[Leon Roskilly]

I use a 9-12"max length of knottable trace

 

 

Thanks for your replies guys, interesting and useful.

 

The concern that I have with tippet length is that I've seen pike flare their gills as they have sucked in a spoon which has resulted in the hooks being set right at the back of the mouth, and with a very large pike this is a bit further back than 9".

 

I'm not quite so worried about leaving a pike-fly armed with a single hook (rather than trebles on a spoon) at the back of pike's mouth, but to lose a terrific specimen because of a few inches would invoke a few swear words!.

 

I know that I'm going to have to try it myself, but is a longer wire tippet going to cause problems with the cast, or with the action of the pike-fly?

[Worms]

Thanks for your replies guys, interesting and useful.

 

The concern that I have with tippet length is that I've seen pike flare their gills as they have sucked in a spoon which has resulted in the hooks being set right at the back of the mouth, and with a very large pike this is a bit further back than 9".

 

I'm not quite so worried about leaving a pike-fly armed with a single hook (rather than trebles on a spoon) at the back of pike's mouth, but to lose a terrific specimen because of a few inches would invoke a few swear words!.

 

I know that I'm going to have to try it myself, but is a longer wire tippet going to cause problems with the cast, or with the action of the pike-fly?

I suppose it depends on your leader length and weight of the fly/tippet and also the tippet material. I find that a short furled leader of say 4-5' and a main tippet of 18-24" and a 9" soft trace with a 4" sparsely tied fly is ok for roll casting. I use a level 8-9wt silk line which although slimmer than a plastic line probably roll casts better. One of the issues with roll casting a large fly would be the weight of a sodden fly.

 

Using distance casting techniques with say a shooting head/sinking tip style line I'd have no qualms as you can heave more power into it but, for accurate casting into a confined space I'd worry that the fly would hold down in the water for too long to make that accurate cast. How about a smaller fly, a short rod and a double haul approach? I wouldn't worry too much about the trace as long as it is flexible. I'd certainly experiment with a short stiff leader though.

[JV44]

Quote Worms One of the issues with roll casting a large fly would be the weight of a sodden fly.

 

Worms with the modern materials instead of an old rabbits hair wouldn`t the modern flies shed water very quick??

I use a 25lb flouro tippet to wire and find the floro is fairly stiff anyway ,have tried flexible wire/49 strand and the thicker plastic coated stuff and caught on all of them but prefer the plastic coated wire /may just suit my limited casting style though Steve.

Edited December 1, 2010 by JV44

[Worms]

Quote Worms One of the issues with roll casting a large fly would be the weight of a sodden fly.

 

Worms with the modern materials instead of an old rabbits hair wouldn`t the modern flies shed water very quick??

I use a 25lb flouro tippet to wire and find the floro is fairly stiff anyway ,have tried flexible wire/49 strand and the thicker plastic coated stuff and caught on all of them but prefer the plastic coated wire /may just suit my limited casting style though Steve.

Yes Steve, the modern materials do shed water quicker but the effort of pulling a six inch long fly made of Flashabou, or other of the 'Fluoro fibre' type materials out of the water on a snap roll cast is still the drag problem. Your 25lb fluoro tippet sounds like a really good idea, must try it!

 

I tend to dress up existing 'Waddington' style tube flies for pike or make 'tall' looking flies with little bulk for fishing smaller rivers.........I also seriously overgun my rod sometimes on small rivers by using 8-9 wt line on a short 6wt rod. Can make for a snappy short cast.....at the risk of your rod!

[JV44]

Yes Steve, the modern materials do shed water quicker but the effort of pulling a six inch long fly made of Flashabou, or other of the 'Fluoro fibre' type materials out of the water on a snap roll cast is still the drag problem. Your 25lb fluoro tippet sounds like a really good idea, must try it!

 

I tend to dress up existing 'Waddington' style tube flies for pike or make 'tall' looking flies with little bulk for fishing smaller rivers.........I also seriously overgun my rod sometimes on small rivers by using 8-9 wt line on a short 6wt rod. Can make for a snappy short cast.....at the risk of your rod!

Aha i see sounds a bit dangerous for your rod....or at least it would be with me casting ,Do you use floating line and a floating fly out of interest?? on the small river that is?? .

Use an old diawa 10# myself its not a vey fast action but that suits my lazy style steve.

[Worms]

Aha i see sounds a bit dangerous for your rod....or at least it would be with me casting ,Do you use floating line and a floating fly out of interest?? on the small river that is?? .

Use an old diawa 10# myself its not a vey fast action but that suits my lazy style steve.

I use a floating line and the fly depends on circumstance. Frequently a lightly weighted fly that will sink quite quickly but will fish just sub-surface on a quick strip!

 

I use a 9 1/2' 8-9 weight cane rod by Marco most of the time. Again, like yours quite a slow action rod but the versatility of a silk line allows for changes in casting style especially using a level line which effectively makes the line heavier at short distance allowing for more accurate casting......which is what I do most of the time on the rivers I fish. On lakes however it's nicely balanced and will land a lovely light line on a double hauled 20 yd cast!

Edited December 1, 2010 by Worms

[Sportsman]

I do most of my Pike fly fishing from a float tube. This allows for short accurate casts from the optimum position or direction.

Given that pike will take ridiculous lumps of metal hardware then I am not too concerned about my wire trace interfering with the presentation of my fly.

I use a straight leader of 20lb maxima and a basic wire spinning trace attached to the leader via a swivel and attach the fly via a link swivel.

Rod is an 8wt Hardy fibreglass. Flies are tied light and sparse with plenty of movement.

Seems to work as I catch plenty