Match rods/ line ratings / strengths

[Tigger]

I have a number of rods of various line ratings and wonderd how much difference in power there would be with the clutch set at the same drag. I set the fighting drag (only the fighting drag, the main drag was backed right off) on a 2500 stradic reel right over to it's furthest point. In turn I got each rod out of it's bag and threaded the line through the guides, then tied the 6lb sensor to a bush....very boring and monotonous belive me !

I tried out a Team Normark Titan 2000 rated to 6lb, a Normark Avenger rated to 8lb, a drennan im8 specimen float rod rated to 6lb +, adrennan Acolyte plus rated to 6lb +, a Daiwa Tournament stick float rod rated to ?...say a guess of 4lb, a drennan im9 rated to 2 1/2lb mainlines.

I was very confused to find every rod bent over to approximatly the same arc before the clutch gave line....is it just me or is that a bit wierd ?....thoughts anyone ? I tried all the rods at the same angle of pull also.

I was gonn'a try some others out but just couldn't be arsed as I reckon they'd all have been the same.

Edited April 18, 2014 by Tigger

[Vagabond]

I am not in the least surprised - I have a selection of "match" rods, all of which I use in turn for roach fishing. My choice of rod is usually on the basis of length, depending upon how wide or how overgrown is the stream I am fishing. But once you have the correct end gear in the water, almost any rod will do. Sooner or later a large chub or carp takes your roach bait - when that happens, all my rods cope, with the amount of bend they take being about the same.

 

I think that very often the rating figure put on rods is often an arbitrary one. That is very noticeable with fly rods, which often perform better with a line one rating (occasionally two) above or below the "official" rating on the rod.

 

With spinning rods, the "recommended" casting weights are usually over a fairly wide range, so with that blunderbuss approach the manufacturer can claim to be right! It doesn't matter that much, because with very little trial and error, you soon find the optimum casting weight for any given rod.

 

In the last analysis, it is the angler's ability that counts most. Almost unconsciously, an experienced angler will adapt to the characteristics of the rod he or she is using at the time.

[Tigger]

The only thing I can think the line ratings stand for is for the tip strength when striking but don't get why they put a mainline rating on at all. Unless of course i did something wrong and i'm totally wrong...just can't fathom out what though.

[philocalist]

I've a suspicion that your answer might have ben found by just pulling a bit harder, with the drag screwed down tighter ... I would expect the rods rated at a higher line strength to bend further down into the butt, exerting much more power lower down the rod, no?

[JV44]

Never mind all that what do you think of the Acolyte plus Ian?? Rusty and myself were thinking of getting one....well I will have to if he does or he will be insufferable

[Vagabond]

I've a suspicion that your answer might have ben found by just pulling a bit harder, with the drag screwed down tighter ... I would expect the rods rated at a higher line strength to bend further down into the butt, exerting much more power lower down the rod, no?

Surely the other way round ! The stronger the rod, the less far down it will bend for a given clutch setting - consider the extreme - like a beachcaster !

 

One trick you soon learn in playing a big fish on a light rod is to lower the angle of pull so as to throw the bend lower down the rod (ie by keeping weight off the tip) - what is called "giving him the butt" The very opposite of "keep your rod up" which is what you do if the fish and tackle are matched.

 

Of course, you have to be careful not to overdo "giving him the butt" because you need to be mindful of not putting too much strain on your line. Also, by "giving him the butt" you are effectively shortening your rod, which means some loss of directional control - you have to make a judgement on which (force exerted or direction of pull) is the more important at any given moment.

Edited April 18, 2014 by Vagabond

[Tigger]

Never mind all that what do you think of the Acolyte plus Ian?? Rusty and myself were thinking of getting one....well I will have to if he does or he will be insufferable

 

 

If i'm honest Steve my opinion is it's nothing special at all, I deffo wouldn't pay the rrp, I got a few notes knocked off mine but I still wish I hadn't botherd getting it !

It doesn't hold a candle to the normarks or for that matter the older drennan stable of rods. Go and have a look at one you might like 'em .

[Tigger]

Surely the other way round ! The stronger the rod, the less far down it will bend for a given clutch setting - consider the extreme - like a beachcaster !

 

One trick you soon learn in playing a big fish on a light rod is to lower the angle of pull so as to throw the bend lower down the rod (ie by keeping weight off the tip) - what is called "giving him the butt" The very opposite of "keep your rod up" which is what you do if the fish and tackle are matched.

 

Of course, you have to be careful not to overdo "giving him the butt" because you need to be mindful of not putting too much strain on your line. Also, by "giving him the butt" you are effectively shortening your rod, which means some loss of directional control - you have to make a judgement on which (force exerted or direction of pull) is the more important at any given moment.

 

 

I think your pretty much bang on Dave. I did do as you say when testing them....dropped the rod tip to see how much pressure was taken off the rod before the clutch slipped. Only prob with that is as you say, the fish would have to be going in the right direction to be able to do it.

 

I did go out again to try a normark microlite rated to 4lb lines and again it bent right over but the clutch gave line with the rod in a very similar arc as all the others !

I then did the same with a Hardys marksman specialist avon just to make sure I wasn't crackin' up, anyhow the clutch slipped when the rod had far less bend in it.

It was very strange how all the float rods whatever their line ratings seemed to bend right over to a very similar curve before the cluch gave line.

 

Although the hardys avon rod was quite powerfull and pulled the line from the reel much easier than the float rods I have some drennan avon super specialist duo's at 1.25 test and I know that in use when playing a decent barbel they felt less powerfull than my match rods...wierd in'it.

[JV44]

If i'm honest Steve my opinion is it's nothing special at all, I deffo wouldn't pay the rrp, I got a few notes knocked off mine but I still wish I hadn't botherd getting it !

It doesn't hold a candle to the normarks or for that matter the older drennan stable of rods. Go and have a look at one you might like 'em .

Well funny you should say that as spent a day trotting the lowere Thames in a boat with Thames Steve and Steve Walker off here with my Normark |Steves ultralight and a acolyte side by side and I wouldn`t have swapped my Normark for the acolyte but was curious as to what the plus stepped up version was like .

Believe that Drennan frown on discounting there rods esp the acolyte so you did well to get a discount mate .

[lutra]

Think your learning more about the action of match rods rather than their power.

 

I don't know all the rods you list Ian, but the only really difference I find between the Titan and the Avenger is the Avenger has more power down in the butt. The tops of the rods are almost the same and I tend to fish them both with the same hook length.

 

I just find it a tad easier to get a good fish in the net with the Avenger.