Daiwa Beachcaster

[Powder Hound]

I am about to buy a new beachcaster rod and am trying to make my mind up between either a Daiwa Sandstorm 13ft or a Daiwa Longbeam 14ft, both are for a fixed spool reel and both are the same price at 110 quid, the Longbeam comes in three sections which would be quite handy for traveling with but I’m not sure what effect having three sections has on the rods performance, if any.

Has anyone used either of these rods or could offer some advice ?

 

One other question, what is the best technique for evenly laying the line onto a multiplier, my old multiplier had a levelwind but I kept getting problems with my shockleader knot catching on it when casting, so I am now trying out one with no levelwind – any tips greatly appreciated,

 

Thanks in advance

 

Dunc

[essexbuoy]

I am about to buy a new beachcaster rod and am trying to make my mind up between either a Daiwa Sandstorm 13ft or a Daiwa Longbeam 14ft, both are for a fixed spool reel and both are the same price at 110 quid, the Longbeam comes in three sections which would be quite handy for traveling with but I’m not sure what effect having three sections has on the rods performance, if any.

Has anyone used either of these rods or could offer some advice ?

 

One other question, what is the best technique for evenly laying the line onto a multiplier, my old multiplier had a levelwind but I kept getting problems with my shockleader knot catching on it when casting, so I am now trying out one with no levelwind – any tips greatly appreciated,

 

Thanks in advance

 

Dunc

 

Hi Powderhound, I don't have either rod but generally the Daiwa stuff is OK. If you budget can stretch a bit further, I would go for the new supercasts (if you don't need three sections) My mate has one and really rates them.

 

On you second one, I manage to cast an ABU 7500 without any problem using shockleaders, I do however use tapered shockleaders which are 60 or 70 lb at the rig end, tapering back to 18lb at the leader knot. You can try different keader knots which are smaller in profile too.

 

There is probably a best way to initially load your multiplier, but I don't know it, I secure the line to the spool using a four turn grinner know and feed the line on the spool evenly using my finger and thumb to control tension. (it does help if someone controls the line spool to stop it paying out too quickly)

 

Once you have the line on, it is relatively easy to wind it back on evenly (with practice) using only your thumb to ensure the line is reloaded under tension. If you do get a loose coil, stop and pay it back out until it has been removed form reel spool and then wind on again. Loose coils = birds nest.

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

BTW is the multiplier going to be used on the fixed spool rod ?

[chesters1]

i have the 12ft longbeam and although i dont cast to the horizon i cant fault it ,if it has the same top as the 12ft its great for bite indication

the rod though seems expensive my 12ft was £29 and the 13ft £10 more ,i would have bought the 13ft but he only had it multiplyer ringed.

Edited February 28, 2007 by chesters1

[Powder Hound]

I haven't tried using a tapered shock leader so will give that a try, unfortunatley ny budget is stretched as it is so a supercast is not possible, thanks for the advice anyway

 

Hi Powderhound, I don't have either rod but generally the Daiwa stuff is OK. If you budget can stretch a bit further, I would go for the new supercasts (if you don't need three sections) My mate has one and really rates them.

 

On you second one, I manage to cast an ABU 7500 without any problem using shockleaders, I do however use tapered shockleaders which are 60 or 70 lb at the rig end, tapering back to 18lb at the leader knot. You can try different keader knots which are smaller in profile too.

 

There is probably a best way to initially load your multiplier, but I don't know it, I secure the line to the spool using a four turn grinner know and feed the line on the spool evenly using my finger and thumb to control tension. (it does help if someone controls the line spool to stop it paying out too quickly)

 

Once you have the line on, it is relatively easy to wind it back on evenly (with practice) using only your thumb to ensure the line is reloaded under tension. If you do get a loose coil, stop and pay it back out until it has been removed form reel spool and then wind on again. Loose coils = birds nest.

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

BTW is the multiplier going to be used on the fixed spool rod ?

[Powder Hound]

I haven't tried using a tapered shock leader so will give that a try, unfortunatley ny budget is stretched as it is so a supercast is not possible, thanks for the advice anyway

oh, and I am not going to be using the the multi on the FS rod

[Norm B]

oh, and I am not going to be using the the multi on the FS rod

The Sandstorm seems to be on offer at a lot of shops at the moment, £99.99 for the 13ft version, seems like a great deal to me, super rod.

[Toerag]

Multiplier line lay - to stop you cutting your thumb on the leaderknot when you cast you need to lay the line so the knot at one side of the spool or the other. either watch carefully when reeling in and lay the line accordingly, or if the knot gets to the reel without you noticing (if you have a fish on for example), then simply let out some line and re-lay it.

[groyne bandit]

hi mate ,,if you cast overhead then go for the longer rod ,,with all these modern materials the 3 or 4 piece is ok unless your power casting ,,as for the reel 15lb line with a tapered shock leader even on a fixed spool rod ..will work fine ,,but one bit of advise ,, you can get away with a cheap fixed spool ,, but dont buy a cheap multiplier ,,,,,,rich

[Medway Jon]

The Sandstorm would be the choice for me. Reason being that in terms of build quality it is significantly better. As a result it will last a lot longer hence better value.

 

 

{2008 Editor note - cheap beachcasters for sale - click here}