Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Gillies

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • AIM
  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    Isle of Lewis, Scotland
  • Interests
    Sea Fishing, Loch Fishing, Photography, Movies, Travel
  1. A decent 200 or 300mm prime for around £300 ............ your kind of wanting the moon on a stick !!!!!!!!! Its a very big ask. Price Vs Performance always comes in when you buy lenses as you will know... you could look at the very cheap Opteka (or what ever they are called) ones... plenty of them on eBay. They are not very fast, and don't Autofocus very well (if they do at all) ... so you will need a nice bright day to get the very best out of the lens, which if your shooting wildlife in say a wooded area or bushes you may struggle... but then again if your a whizz with manual focusing yo
  2. I'm not English ... but It would of been nice to get an English Manager for England from an English point of view I'd say... but been realistic, I personally dont think there are any English managers of such as high profile to take up the position (Harry Rednap - possibly the only real contender). Just look at how many English managers have won the English Premiership since it started!!!!! ... so it looks like it was down to either a lower profile English manager without a good record in winning trophies (ie as McClaren was), or a proven high profile forgien manager whom has had success at num
  3. Hi John Pound for pound this is a superb lens - I have had one for years, taking loads up loads of shots and have been more than happy with its performance. I only use it occasionally now, since I purchased Canon L telephoto lenses - but it is definately worth the money and getting. In my experiences, its nice and sharp up to 200mm, from 200mm to 300mm the images can be a wee bit softer depending on the available light, but if you have good light the images are plenty sharp. The Macro feature on it is surprisingly very very good, I've got some really nice shots of flying insects e
  4. I made sure I got nice clear shots of the fish been measured, showing clearly the measurments on the tape measure, and this was a big thick fish ... definately not a fish on a diet Gillies
  5. For night shots a tripod is essential ...... or some other way to remove any kind of camera shake ... the trick is no shake, and not over exposing the lights. Usually taking a number of shots at different exposure times and looking back at them you get an idea of what exposure time will work best .............. longer the exposure ... the brighter/more dazzling the lights will be, but also the more detail will be shown on buildings,rocks,items etc etc ......... its just finding the exposure that works best for you. The moon - if you are looking to get some detail in it (ie see the craters
  6. Myself and my mate went Common Skate fishing from the shore last night, his rod had a small run ... followed by a big run a few mins later ... 20 mins later there was a 158 lb fish at the waters edge. He's already got the British Record for the Common Skate, so knew what to expect when he hooked it .... the area is reportedly full of Common Skate... but no one has properly went fishing for them with the heavier gear until now, so we'll be fishing it again over the coming weeks no doubt. Here are two photos that are posted elsewhere also... I got a great series of photos o
  7. Gillies

    Pink Fish

    Looks like a very pink Lumpsucker to me.... Gillies
  8. Gillies


    Thats a good buy for a tripod, and it looks like it will do the just the job. When I first got a camera years ago, my tripod was a dusk collecter ... that then turned into a rod rest !!!! Now I have one with me where ever I go with a camera, right down to a small aerial legged one that goes from under 30cm to over 150cm (it just and no more takes the weight of a DSLR and a 70-200 lens). In my experiences some uses are ... For landscapes - I use a tripod for 99% of landscape shots ... most of the time I shoot landscapes at the first 2 hours of light, or last 2 hours of light ... t
  9. Gillies


    I've got a Slik 300 DX (which with a good head cost me all in all near £150) ... and also I have a bit more expensive Manfrotto tripod and head system. I use the Slik 95% of the time though, it's built like a tank, and does a fantastic job when out and about doing landscapes .... it will last you many many years. I see it has dropped in price a wee bit since I got one years ago ... Gillies
  10. I've done shots like this before that turned out not to bad ... a girl with a lovely big smile been in the shots, I used my flashgun with the omni-bounce diffuser fitted for flash fill that wasn't to harsh, and the 50mm F1.8 @ F2.8 for a nice head and shoulders portrait with a nicely blurred background, with the flashgun pointed directly at her,.... end result was a series of nice portraits with a sprarkly smile. We played about with the pose, and added just a touch of Lypsyl to her teeth and it really brought out a sparkle on her teeth .... I'm guesisng a better job couldbe done with vas
  11. If no Flash allowed, use your fastest film speed (ISO) that you camera has .... with noise levels that you find acceptable, and a shutter speed that fast enough to get the shot without blur, and slow enough to get the detail and available light into the photo. I think sometimes the grainey noise on a shot can be quite effective in a shot. If your into RAW and your camera has it, possibly shoot in RAW so you can adjust the photo later - white balance etc. Maybe do some test shots in low light at home, to get used to low light non-flash photography. Gillies
  12. You didnt say what your main subject of photography is, or did I miss it? .... I'd say that would be a major factor? In my opinion I'd say technique is the key to good images by miles and miles, then glass, then the camera ... My two pence worth would be, if your looking at doing landscapes you want glass that gives good corner to corner shaprness with nice colour rendition, some of the kit lenses do this ... if you get a good copy (Canon and Sigma QC seems not to great ... I dont know about Nikon), if your doing portraits etc - your looking at glass with a wee bit of speed under various lig
  13. If its a Teleconverter you want - have a look at the ones from Kenko or Tamron if you want to retain autofocusing, as the Canon TCs only autofocus on the 1D series bodies, otherwise on other bodies its manual focus (I may be wrong). When you put a TC on you will loose some of the speed of the glass (I may be wrong, correct me if I am but I think its 2 stops)and the autofocusing is not so nippy if you buy 3rd Party ones that retains autofocus, so when shooting in lower light the focusing may be hunting a wee bit .... so they work better in good light. I use a cheap (£60) Keno 1.5 TC som
  14. I seen on a photorgaphy forum a link to a clip of photographer cleaning his sensor one day while out working at an event, and I was amazed at how easy it seamed, and how quick ... although Ive had the cleaning fluid and pads for months now, Ive been to scared to try it. I got it from where I get 99% of my camera gear ... Warehouse Express .... just had to make sure I got the pad to fit the sensor, which they clearly show. I looked to see if I could find that clip, but I cant ... but did come across this ....... oh, and Im in no way asscoiated with this manufacturer etc blah blah blah
  15. After getting sick of using canned air to try and blast out sensor dust, and only gets rid of so much of it ... and using the clone tool in Photoshop or Fireworks to get rid of the specs left on the images ... I finally got up the courage to use a sensor cleaning kit (Note: Canon and Nikon are against you doing this !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) I used digi-pads with one or two drops of Eclipse Optic Cleaning Fluid - a wipe back and fore on the sensor, and that was it :-) The results were great - a nice clean sensor now, without a trace of dust on images from F1.8 to F22. I've seen a number of shot
  • Create New...