charliebettell

Me using a landing net to scoop a fish off the bottom, i.e. to see if it is ill or injured, is no more illegal than you rescuing fish using a landing net. Do you think that there should be one rule for you and another for me with regard using a landing net to net a non hooked fish?

To those that have sent me their details, I have passed them on to Steve. Regards Charlie

I have to agree with you re. a drop in standards by Shimano. I purchased a couple of Stradic GTM reels a couple of years back - which were built well - so they will keep me going for 2-3 years. Depending on which Okuma you go for, be prepared to do modifications - some have some really silly manufacturing mistakes/boo-boos - call what you want!! What problems have you had with your Stradics Phil?

I totally agree with Russell! Cheaper they may be Peter - but better they most certainly aren't. You get what you pay for!!

Stephen Harper is now working on the Second Edition of Broadland Pike. Stephen has asked me if I can track down any other pike caught from the Norfolk Broads, over 32.08 in weight, that has been caught since the first book was released back in 1998 - or missed out on being listed in the First Edition. If you would like to reserve a copy of the book, let me know and I'll pass your details on to Stephen. Name: Address1: Address2: Address3: E-mail: Tel: Please PM me if you have any info. Regards

I have owned a pair of EPIX PRO 30 reels for approximately 12 months. I started using one of them at the start of the 2005 river open season. From day one I had nothing but trouble with it - the 'raised' spool release button kept catching my 30lb braided line as I started to wind on. If the trapped line went un-noticed, I would have a massive tangle on the following cast. After catching on the spool release button the line would actually slip right under the spool release button. To overcome the problem, I had to modify the spool release buttons - i.e. so they did not sit proud of the spools. They need modifying from the off, the paint starts to comes off fairly quickly, they grind a fair bit when retrieving high resistance lures, but apart from that, they aren't too bad for the money. The button on the following reel is not that much different to that of the EPIX PRO 30 - so if you buy one of the following reels, and the line gets trapped on the horrible little protruding button, i.e. as you start to wind in, don't say you weren't warned!

I have haqd a 20D for quite some time now. I, personally, use a Lexar 80x CF Card:- Click here to see Lexar 80x CF Card. In my opinion, it's the best CF Card for the 20D - or 5D or 1DS MKll.

Charlie www.NACA.co.uk

Lexar 1GB 80X, in my opinion, are the best money can buy. I use a Lexar 1GB CF card myself. Lexar were the pioneers of the CF card. Following link to a Lexar 2GB 80X CF Card. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Lexar-2GB-80X-WA-Pro...1QQcmdZViewItem

Not used curves for a very long time Steve - glad you made me have another go with it. It really helped me to improve the following photo:- Thanks!!!

Cheers Steve.

No problem. As I said, the method I use works well for me. ------------------------------------------------------- This is how I would tweak it. I would first use 'Levels'. Image, Adjustments, Levels I would then use 'Hue/Saturation'. Image, Adjustments, Hue/Saturation Then 'Colour Balance'. Image, Adjustments, Colour Balance But not always in the above order. I always finish off by seeing if 'Unsharp Mask' will add the finishing touch to my photo. Filter, Sharpen, Unsharp Mask - I use in the region of 5-50% - i.e. depending on the sharpness required. I then play about with 'History' to see if I have made the right decisions. ------------------------------------------------------- By the way, I use Photoshop 7 and Photoshop Elements 2 Charlie

My way:- Before:- After:- Note how much sharper the lamp post is. When all said and done, it's all down to personal preference.

Where can I find the piece you did on curves Steve.

This is how I would tweak it. I would first use 'Levels'. Image, Adjustments, Levels I would then use 'Hue/Saturation'. Image, Adjustments, Hue/Saturation Then 'Colour Balance'. Image, Adjustments, Colour Balance But not always in the above order. I always finish off by seeing if 'Unsharp Mask' will add the finishing touch to my photo. Filter, Sharpen, Unsharp Mask - I use in the region of 5-50% - i.e. depending on the sharpness required. I then play about with 'History' to see if I have made the right decisions. Charlie

Model = Canon EOS 300D DIGITAL Exposure Time = 1/250" F Number = F10 ISO Speed Ratings = 100 A memorable shot taken while out on the water. Charlie http://www.NACA.co.uk

Good advice Lid.

Do you take the time to think about what your photo will look like before pressing the shutter release button? - or do you simply prefer to crop your photos in order to get good composition? Personally, I like to do both. I always use Adobe Photoshop 'Levels' and 'Unsharp Mask' to try and improve my shots. What are your preferred methods for improving shots. Charlie

Sigma 12-24mm - far better than the Canon 10-20mm 'EFS' lens. Note: EFS lenses do not fit the latest Canon 5D - should you ever decide to upgrade to one. Stay well clear of EFS lenses if you're thinking of upgrading to a true 35mm frame Canon - like the 5D or 1Ds MKII - or you will find yourself having to start all all over again (!) Charlie

I have the battery grip for my Canon 300D and 20D - it really compliments the cameras in my opinion. When it comes to buying spare batteries, don't go mad and lash out £50 a pop, I purchased mine from Hong Kong for £20 - for two!! http://search.ebay.co.uk//search/search.dl...title=canon+511 They last every bit as long as the genuine Canon 511/512 batteries. The beauty of the battery grip is it has a shutter release button for side on shots - plus zoom buttons and rota wheel. A must have in my opinion. Charlie http://www.NACA.co.uk

Hi Peter On looking at the photo at home, after our day out at Colchester Zoo, I asked my wife if she could remember what the adorable looking creature was - as I had not payed attention when photographing it. We both thought that it was a Gorilla - oops!!! Regards Charlie http://www.NACA.co.uk

In my opinion, your camera is focusing on the reflection in the window - causing the subject to blur. Pull your curtains and place your camera in between them - i.e. where they meet in the middle. Where there's a will, there's a way (!) Charlie http://www.NACA.co.uk

One of my favourite shots of last summer. Nothing special - but very amusing! Why stop at taking a drink when you can have a nice cold bath?

Reflection could be your main problem. Try using a rubber hood on your lens - pressed hard up against the window pain. The following were taken through thick glass - covered with tiny fingerprints!! The thing I really love about the above photo, is you can see me taking the photo through the window - i.e. in the eyes of the gorilla!! This is the info for the Gorilla shot:- Camera Model Canon EOS 20D Shooting Date/Time 5/12/05 10:40:07 AM Shooting Mode Program AE Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1/15 Av( Aperture Value ) 3.5 Metering Mode Evaluative Metering Exposure Compensation 0 ISO Speed 400 Lens 28.0 - 200.0 mm Focal Length 28.0 mm Image Size 3504x2336 Image Quality Fine Flash Off Charlie http://www.NACA.co.uk

I too have/use a Canon 300D and 20D. Lens:- Canon 28-200mm Canon: 28-135mm IS Canon 100-400mm IS Canon 28-300mm IS Sigma 12-24mm Flash:- Speedlite 420EX - rarely ever used! Accessories:- Loads!!! Charlie http://www.NACA.co.uk