Kappa

Dear John, I sent you a text message, feel free to just give me a call if you want to come along with me one day or to have a chat about tactics etc, its too much to write here! My next trip to Rutland is on Friday if you want! Brief points in order of importance: You'll need a fish finder. They are not absolutely essential but without them you would likely struggle to find the areas / depths where the fish are. If you know the water well you may be able to get away without one, but I'd never leave without mine. If you want to, I have one you can have (basic) or one you could buy (advanced) Low diameter braid is important. Getting the best one is the tricky, too thin and its too fragile, too thick and its impossible to fish with. I have always used 8lb braid, 14lb is too thick. The rod is important. Ideally you want a short stiff rod like Steve Walker describes. I wouldn't buy one until you know you like it but its unlikely you already have a suitable rod. Not many rods that are OK on the Thames can handle a 50g Jig head. As I understand the rules you have to use wire if you use trebles You need a drogue but all boats have them now so you don't need to buy one That's it for the major points and all the separates you from a blank and >20 zander. Beyond that a trip with someone who knows what they are doing will short cut a lot of learning, Rutland is no longer super easy and I've seen people blank. Grafham is a heart breaker so I wouldn't start there! As I have said, I have all you would need to fish there, all you would need to bring is yourself, waterproofs and your lunch! Rich

My advice? Use the formula as described to calculate how much further you need to set you line marker. So for example if your spot it 100ft out use the formula to work out if you need to add say an extra 5ft. Then you now know once you have cast out and tighten up the line if your line marker is in the right spot (e.g. the butt ring) then you are exactly on your spot. The next step is where to clip up. This needs some adjustment throughout your session as other factors, especially wind makes a difference. For example you might find that if you want the line marker to end up at the butt ring once the line has sunk and all is tight that you need to clip up with the line marker at the tip ring for example to allow for the inefficiency in sinking and the bow in the line caused by a cross wind etc etc. Does that make sense! The key is if you are certain your line marker accurately marks the right spot then all you need to do it make sure its in the right position after you have tightened the line. Rich

Nope. That's bull****. Braid having no stretch is pretty easy to cracking off with during a cast especially as it can be prone to wind knots etc when casting etc. A shock leader allows casting with less chance of cracking off. If you are fishing lakes it also allows you to fish without fear of killing someone on the far bank with a lost lead (bullet).

John, From mid afetrnoon onwards and especially as it approachs dusk moving is a good idea. I don't do it often but if I don't I'm on fish or not enough fish I move. My advice, if its within 2hrs of dark and you aren't catching cast somewhere else or move swim... Rich

John, I often find the same. I use the pole so I can move the bait a tiny bit or lift it vertically and drop it very slowly. One tip I'd say. Fish till dark and fish very close in as it gets darker. Don't be scared to try right under your feet even if you haven't fed anything. As it gets dark I start casting all over the swim away from the baited area "looking" for fish. If I don't get a bite within 1 minute I move it. I have caught some of my biggest perch 2ft from the bank nowhere near the baited area. Rich

I saw a terrapin sunbathing on a log in the windrush earlier this year!

Hi John, I've never tried it but I have heard good things about it! An easier version is just to use a swanshot or two! Aka the split shot rig. Rich

Have you ever fished for perch with livebait?

That's a terrible idea. Didn't John and I mention lip hooking can lead to deep hooking? Deep hooking a fish with treble hooks is even worse. I know by definition fishing is not fish friendly but the very least you can do is try your best to avoid such an obvious cause of harm if you intend to retuning the fish alive. I mainly lure fish these days but over the years I've played around with a range of methods to avoid deep hooking from hair rigs to circle hooks. They all work but it depends on the rig.

Yes sorry Steve, Me too, I didn't notice it was you either until I was already out in the weir pool, I can spot Rusty's hat from 100 yards I planned to come and say hi at dusk but you had already scarpered! Rich

Hi John, Lots of missed fish could be the small ones too. Small perch will try and take surprisingly large baits. The problem with lip hooking livebaits is that as the perch swallow the bait head first deep hooking can be a problem. Hooking in the tail can help and results in more lip hooked perch but expect to miss more bites from the little ones. Rich p.s. have you tried large kingprawns? The really big ones can be really quite selective for larger perch. Rich

Thanks both. My guess on seeing it was upper 3. It's been a while since I've had a big 3 but it was up there! It was a brute. I have to say I'm a hopeless lure addict. Rich

Was out again today for a hour or so. I hit the jackpot and got a really decent perch amongst a load of ~1lbers: Problem is I forgot my scales!!! Anyone want to guess the weight? The fish further up was 2ln 2oz and ~38cm long. This fish was ~45cm long and much much deeper, and as you can see really thick across the back: Rich

I'm certain the rattles are fish picking up and dropping the bait. Adjusting your setup as per Ken's recommendations would change those rattles to unmissable drop backs. It's not super easy, but get it right and you'll be laughing.

That's what I was going to say! If you are getting rattles and unhittable bites you need to adjust your setup not hitting the bites. The method Ken describes I believe is the best one. Rich