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tincatinca

Anglers' Net Contributor
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Everything posted by tincatinca

  1. Good grief. This thread has brought back some memories. I lived in Stafford from the early fifties to the late eighties and fished the Sow and the marshes a great deal. The Sow was a completely different river prior to the building and opening of the M6 and was capable of producing specimen Chub, Perch, Roach and PIke. Sainsburys is roughly the area where the old gas works was and with the warm water outlet there you were always in with a chance of big Roach and Perch in fact it is there where I lost what would have been my biggest ever Roach. The river from what used to be the brine baths right the way upstream to Chebsey and the confluence with the Meece was capable in certain areas of producing some very good fish relative to that time. The pool near the cemetery used to provide some great sport with the PIke using surface popping lures whilst the pools at the back of Cresswell and over toward Doxey came up with some very decent Tench. I caught my first fish in the Sow which was a decent Roach from under the Broad Eye bridge. Happy days.
  2. Having played about with different configurations, I decided that the best way to use the rod building bench was to mount the motor on its own stand so having finally received all the power supply and electronic components required to make up a control box which incorporates a combined stop start and motor direction switch along with speed control, I spent a bit of time at the weekend making a few bits then assembling it all together. Testing showed that the motor speed can be fully controlled from about 2rpm to a lot more than you would ever need. By mounting the motor separately it has made everything a lot more versatile so I think am now just about ready to start with the re building side of things.
  3. With the boss on grand daughter duties, an ideal opportunity to have a day in the shed. Tested the motor and everything working ok although I need a 240v to 6 volt wall adapter with a 300 ma output to get the speed right so that has been ordered. I played around with with a circuit board and potentiometer which gave a variable speed capability but as I only want the motor for drying I decided to go with a dedicated power supply. With the motor being ok I have now made a mount for it and also a simple 3 screw chuck.A little bit of fettling is still required to get the heights right but that is simply achieved by shortening the two columns under the adjustable rollers which is basically a five minute job in the lathe. With a two piece 12 foot rod it will require an external stand so I will make another small base for one of the stands. Once that has been done it will be all systems go to get some varnish on the rods before whipping the rings on.
  4. Hi Budgie, I cannot pm you for whatever reason. I have sent you a message through bass-online and also I have sent you an e-mail
  5. Ali for the frame base and Acetal for everything else apart from the bearings and a couple of 10mm bolts to mount the roller heads onto the spigots. Acetal is a brilliant material, just wish you could get it in rectangular bar form instead of having to machine it from sheet.
  6. Being able to pass the blank through the chuck would be extremely beneficial and at some time I may go down that route but at the moment I think that I will be able to get around that by making an extra external roller support if I find that I need extra length. The Ali extrusion I used for the base is quite substantial with a 1/8" wall thickness with the collars, columns and heads all machined to be spigot mounted and bolted through.. The sliding support plates have all been milled full length with 10mm deep x 3.6mm wide slots so there is little chance that anything will come apart. One thing I did find though is that there can be considerable differences in diametral tolerances between different pieces of Acetal bar.
  7. Thanks for that Den, looks very good and stable. Most of the material I used is spare stuff I had lying around in the shed from other projects butI think I know what you mean about about using MDF as it would have make the job a lot easier but as I have loads of different bits of Acetal and Ali extrusion I decided to use what was readily available although a considerable time was spent on the miller making everything fit and at the same time be adjustable. I thought about doing something similar to what you have done with the chuck but making it from Acetal bar instead of Ali. First thing though is to see if the motor works before I get round to making anything else. I am really looking forward to starting and have just stripped down a pair of old Maddocks KM2 rods ready for re building. Your belt driven bearing mounted chuck is probably the best way to go for stability and minimal vibration but in the first instance I will look if it is possible to mount the chuck directly to the motor shaft as there is approx 3/4" of shaft available to use. When I made the tyres to fit on the roller bearings in the heads, I wanted them to be removeable but at the same time firmly held in place so after a bit of head scratching I found that a solution was to leave a small clearance between the bore of the wheels and o/d of the bearings then wrap one turn of pvc insulation tape around the bearing o/d and press fit the wheels onto the bearings in the miller vice then trim of the tape with a stanley knife blade. Worked well
  8. A little bit more done with the rod support head wheels made and fitted along with a couple of additional stands. The bearings did not arrive by post so went to a bearing supplier in a nearby town to obtain some although they were expensive compared with what you can get them for off the net. As it transpired it was a very good move, as when talking to the guy about what I was doing, he gave me a motor out of a box which had been hanging around in the shop for a long time but which had already been pad for prior to the company who had originally ordered them ceasing to trade. It is a 6 volt motor with a speed of 18 rpm. I will make up a 6volt battery pack to test it and if it works and if it does will make an adjustable stand and mount for it along with a simple 3 jaw chuck.
  9. Thanks for the comments on the motors. I have had a look at microwave motors and also rotisserie drives but if possible, I am trying to keep away from 240 volts and utilise a 12v supply from my fishing powerpack. 15 and 30 rpm hi torque 12v motors are readily available for not a lot of money. Hopkins and Holloway are very good and I usually use them for obtaining fittings eg reel seats and and various trims if I dont make them myself. At the moment I am only looking to motorise for drying purposes and will stick to hand turning for whipping although that could change quite easily if I can sort out a variable speed set up with a foot switch.
  10. Thanks Chesters 1, I had not considered a barbecue motor so will look into it. I have now managed to do a bit more but have been put back as the bearings I ordered for the heads have failed to turn up so I can't make the wheels yet. Sorted out the whipping thread spool holders and tensioners so that bit is now out of the way. When you are using 2 part epoxy, ideally you need to keep the rod rotating to prevent any build ups and runs and also depependent on which version of epoxy you use, it can take take a long time before you can leave them on their own. In the past I have spent a few sleepless nights constantly turning rods mounted between Vees cut out in cardboard boxes. Just as a matter of interest, the Pacific Bay whipping thread at first glance appears to be good. I did manage to find some black Gudebrod and also some black Talbot thread when I was rummaging around in the garage which will come in handy.
  11. Thanks for replies I have just been in touch with this company and have ordered a couple of spools of Pacific Bay C grade Nylon and a bottle of Bullard CP extra To try http://www.rodringsandthings.co.uk/index.php?app=gbu0&ns=catshow&ref=WHIPTHREAD http://www.rodringsandthings.co.uk/index.php?app=gbu0&ns=catshow&ref=RodVarnish This link may also be useful to others http://addictionanglinginfo.forum-motion.com/t284-rod-builders-list-components-suppliers-list-for-resource Now to make a spool holder and tensioner
  12. A few weeks ago I had a good look at all my rods and found that quite a few could do with a bit of restoration work with some requireing a complete re build. I made a few enquiries regarding the costs involved which amounted to a considerable sum so I have decided to do them myself. I am not unfaniliar with building rods having done many in the past but none for quite some time so as an initial and fairly simple task task I stripped down and refurbished a couple of stalker butts belonging to my Harrison Ballistas to get a feel for what needed to be done. With the number of rods that required working on, what soon became very apparent was the need for a decent rod building stand preferably with a motorised drive for drying particularly when using a two part epoxy for doing the ring whippings, As a lot of my fishing is specimen based, a lot of my rods are of a 2 piece 12 foot construction and having searched the net both in th UK and the states, to purchase a decent set up would be quite expensive so I have decided to make my own. Having spent several days in the shed on the lathe and miller, I have managed to construct a base along with sliding supports and a sliding table to mount a tensioned whipping roller. The heads for the rod supports have been roughed out and I am currently waiting for some roller bearings on which I will mount some wheels and assemble them into the heads. It is very much a work in progress and once the rod supports have been sorted, the next step will be to sort out a moveable stand for the motor along with the electrics and possibly a third rod stand Below is a picture of work completed to date plus the stalker butts Now a few questions to the rod builders in the forum. As Gudebrod whipping is no longer available what is currently good to use (black) which does not require doping and also what varnishes/coatings are good to use on carbon rods For the ring whipping, what is a good 2 part epoxy to use.
  13. It is not a 12" fish in fact it is closer to 15". The ciggarette packet measured with a digital vernier reads spot on 103mm which converted to proper english is 4.055 inches. If you now use that measurement to scale the fish it comes close to 15 inches long which is why I am very interested in weight guestimations. By the same rule of thumb the depth of the fish comes extremely near to the length of the ciggarette packet so very close to 4" deep.
  14. It felt quite a bit bigger than a pound Ian. If you scale up the picture it comes in around 141/2 inches long and it was quite thick accross its back. A very Interesting and picturesque place which I will be going back to next year for an extended holiday as the biggest authenticated Roach from there in recent times was in excess of 3lb along with several different big 2s. As regards to whether it is a true Roach then I am sure that Vagabond and others will make the appropriate comments. The main target species in the lake were Carp which can be traced back to original Leney stocking but it was the other species that interested me most with Tench into double figures and Eels running over 6lb with my best over the week being a 7-01 Tench and a 5.02 Eel along with a few stunning looking Commons.
  15. Whilst on a recent fishing holiday to Devon, I managed to catch a couple of decent Roach but unfortunately had no scales to hand as my mate had purloined mine and was down the other end of the lake. The ciggarette packet in the picture measures with a vernier 103mm long by 56mm deep so any ideas on the approximate weight of the fish.
  16. I always thoroughly enjoy and look forward to the fish ins and although the fishing was a bit difficult, the sheer ambience and natural beauty of Wingham never ceases to amaze me. When Steve told me that I was being put in Tims Point which is up to now my favourite Wingham swim I was delighted but unfortunately and no matter what I tried, I could not get the fish to co-operate finishing up with a small Tench around a pound and and losing a bigger fish most likely a Pike to a bite off about an inch from the hook. It was quite frustrating as I had fish showing in front of me on several occassions and at one time I disturbed something large right in the edge of the bank. I really enjoy the social aspect of the fish ins and the walk from the Clubhouse to my swim and vice versa usually took a long time with many stops to chat to both new and familar faces on the way. I know it has been stated on numerous occassions but the effort that is put in to enable the fish ins to take place is imense and so I thank all concerned in making it such a fantastic place to be not only at the fish ins but also throughout the year so special thanks to Steve for allowing me to fish, Peggy for the excellent barbecue, Steve "Korum" Cambell for the excellent sausage and bacon sarnies, All the Bailiffs Terry, Glynn, Budgie and Eddie for their sterling work and great company throughout the year and for the majesty of Wingham itself for being such a wonderful place to be with its amazing sunrises, sunsets and wildlife with an example of a nice fiush in sunrise developing below.
  17. I wll bring along 6 long bank sticks and a set of long drop bobbins complete with isotopes
  18. My preference is for the ESP brand in the thinner 1.25 version. It can be a pain to thread and is much better if you first run through a lentgth of wire trace to clear out the bore of the tubing before threading your line however it does make for neat and less bulky rigs whilst pinning the line down. http://www.esp-carpgear.com/viewProduct.php?id=72 There are several different varieties of the same thing around but I have found this is the one that suits me best although it can be frustrating to thread it at times.
  19. I like the concept of those Rich. Extended movement from a minimum no of joints which should maintaint a good degree of rigidity. Wiil be very interesting to see how they perform.
  20. Hi Anthony, I have used Pro Clear in 10lb and 12lb for most of my fishing at Wingham but also use at least a metre and sometimes 2 metres of Anchor Tube at the business end dependent on where I am fishing at any given time and up to now have not had any issues. I like the line because it is very supple in comparison to others and is utilised with rods which have a progressive through action as opposed to those with a faster taper. I do lose distance accuracy, but as most of my fishing is done within 50 yds, I believe that I benefit in fish playing ability as you can bend into the fish and let the action of the rod do the work. If I was to go over bars then I would step up to to either 15lb Pro Gold or Big Game with a full 2 metre length of Anchor Tube on the line but still use a rod with a progressive through action. This of course is a personal preference and I am sure that others would advocate something different.
  21. Must be the old age, I could have sworn I saw pins at right angles to the screws. The word plonker springs to mind amongst others lol
  22. Yes Ian, you are right. What then I wonder is the purpose of the two small pins.
  23. Interesting to note that this one has screws securing the reel foot
  24. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Allcock-Aerial-style-centrepin-fishing-reel-split-cane-rod/281307684189?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222006%26algo%3DSIC.FITP%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20890%26meid%3D6205615013729002310%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D9312%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D251501073189#ht_44wt_961 i don't think its a casting in wood reel as they usually have the reels foot bracket riveted to the back ,not a integral moulding ,its like a allcocks 7950 style back ,doesn't look too old .it looks a very nicley made reel ,i really like it but i'm saving every penny at the moment to save up the deposit/advanced payment for my next car ,i cant justify spending any of the money or i would have a go at this one . don't have a clue who made it Good and valid point about the foot bracket although I do wonder about the strength of the reel foot joint
  25. I think this is more of a Witcher replica than the Lythe 1915. The only difference I can see is that the drum retaining fork is at the front of the reel and not the back, other than that everything else is the same, calliper ratchet spring, riveted line bearers and handles, reel foot mounting integral with the backplate, fake patina etc. Even the reel foot dimensions look the same. I saw this and was going to have a punt, not worried about the no-name branding, if it works as good as it looks it could be a very nice centrepin. Chris, when I mentioned the Lythe 1915 I was referring to the Claro Precision engineering one and not the one by Casting in Wood. The Casting in Wood is indeed a pretty reel to look at and looks great in a cabinet but the materials used eg not nickel silver for the spokes and line lays coupled with the method of construction for pin retention and check assembly does not in my opinion make it a good user reel. If on the other hand you reversed the front plate of the Claro reel and replaced the lever check with a button check ypu would have a near identical reel to the Lythe 1915 which makes me think it was an early prototype and as such would be rare as the proverbial rocking horse pooh. The other thing of course is how many other manufactures use screws for the line lays as opposed to rivets. The only one I know who used this method of construction on Aeriel type reels was the guy who used to make the Trotting Specials for Specialist Tackle in Romford.
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