Mark7

David Hockney made a good point when challenged on using an IPad to create "art"-the idiot interviewer suggested that technology and art are not compatible. Hockney said "but a pencil is technology, and so is a paintbrush". In the same way, a reel is "technology". I dislike baitboats, but cannot say that they are a cheat, any more than a smartcast is (I use one, by the way-brilliant tool). Polaroid sunglasses would have caused Halford to have a fit, but how many anglers do not own a pair? Unless we use a stick with a gut line and hook made of bone, we all use technology. If it's used to overcome an inability to cast or perform any other normal fishing activity then it is sad, and an indication of an individuals lack of skill and determination to perfect his art. I object to "technology" when it becomes a nuisance-loud alarms, baitboats buzzing around, spods frothing the water up-usually the result of an idiot angler lacking commonsense. But these things, used sensibly, are bearable.

Sorry, should have been clearer-double turn through eye of hook and swivel on both palomar and uni knot increased BS by a small amount (around 1lb), and they are the readings I posted above.It seems to me that the line is particularly averse to compression, and doubling through swivel eye was first option tried to counter this. I did obtain slightly better results by taking the line throught the swivel eye five times, and then tying the knot on the wrist of the swivle, but that is a most untidy way to be going on. All in all, a line for light work I think. I have also tried the triple palomar using your link, as it looked promising. Broke at knot at 14lbs for 26lbs BS nanofil.

I have been testing nanofil over the last 6 weeks. Knot strength is dreadful-at best 60% of stated BS when tying to hook or swivel. The recommended knot (double palomar) gave only 50% of stated BS, despite Berkley claiming 71%, and after much experimentation with dozens of knots, I managed 60% with a 5 turn double uni knot after seeing a recommendation for this on youtube. Various knot glues made no difference to the results. I will use it on waters where braid is banned, which is why I bought it originally, but it is a poor replacement for power pro for heavy duty applications. I will be using it for trotting, however, as I can see distinct advantages in terms of diameter there. It is difficult to have confidence in a line that knots so poorly. Has anyone found a more effective knot?

I still do this if I wish to fish near to another angler, in the hope that it might spread, and become the norm. Most anglers are suprised by the enquiry, but seem to appreciate it. I also say good morning/ afternoon/evening to all I meet on any water, and ask them if they have caught. Suprisingly, after the initial shock, most anglers will converse. If I just get a grunt, I wish them luck and move on. You never know, it might catch on again if enough of us do it!

Yes, the bag showed no indication on the scales-I would guess it weighed less than 1oz, and the scales read very slightly over 9.05. It will be interesting to see what the BRFC say as to weight when scales are checked.

An extract that might help: Near the end of the larval phase, eels enter freshwater where they develop into "yellow eels", and remain in this phase until sexual maturity. It is not until the yellow phase that sexual differentiation of males and females occurs (at a minimum size of 20cm). Males tend to be dominant near the coastal zones, and females further upstream. Eels may take many years to reach sexual maturity, with males generally maturing earlier than females, at between 6 and 12 years; females may take up to 18 years to reach reproductive age (9-18 years). Puberty is thought to be induced by a combination of internal and environmental factors, related to the migration phase (a period of prolonged swimming at depth) and arrival at the spawning ground. Of the fish maintained in groups, 77% became males, whereas 60% of those maintained in isolation became females. The implication is that both grouping and hormones are involved in sex determination of European eels.

Exactly!! Thanks for the comment on circles. I am trying to gauge the runs so that the bait is fully in the pikes jaw and on the way down, and not in its gullet. I have also removed barbs, and bent out the offset that is prevalent in circle hooks. I felt that the offset could cause the hook to catch in soft tissue. Baits are big, and hair rigged to tail so that providing I do not come a cross an idiot pike that takes a bait backwards then the hook should always be well up in the mouth. If, as you have experienced, I deep hook one I will stop using them. Did you remove offset/barb when you tried them

I agree, as Budgie states, that the majority of eels caught by accident are either mis-weighed or poorly estimated. I became so fed up with this last year that I wrote a piece for one of the comics on weighing and measuring eels just after a so called 13 was publicised. I don’t suppose it’s made much difference, but it made me feel better! However, there are a few waters that have repeatedly produced genuine eels of over 8lbs, sometimes even over 9lbs. Of the four seemingly genuine 9s publicized over the last 2 years, 3 have been from crayfish rich pits. The EA were interested in the relationship between eels and crayfish, as well stocked eel waters often remain crayfish free when others nearby are full of them. The eel is certainly well equipped to eat them. It can access their burrows and has a strong jaw muscles. There was a plan to stock a crayfish infested commercial water with eels and see what happened, but I believe that the owner chickened out when his match customers found out, and rebelled! I also believe that there are more big eels out there than is indicated by the catch rates. I know of 2 nines that were caught from small pits (around 2 acres) after intensive campaigns by competent anglers-one came after 67 nights, and another after 60 nights, together with an 8 (not consecutive nights, obviously). My own PB came after around 80 nights on a water, and a string of 5s and 6s. You would expect a small water to give up its eels relatively quickly, but it would seem that the slow metabolism, sporadic feeding periods and cautious feeding habits of larger eels make them very difficult to catch. We no longer believe that the biggest eels in a water are caught in the first few sessions. The water you mention above probably contains mostly male eels, as sex is determined by stock density. That doesn’t mean that there might not be the odd big female in there, but having to wade through the smaller ones, and the factors mentioned above, will make the bigger fish very hard to catch. Normally, male eels do not reach 4 or 5lbs in weight, as they return to the Sargasso when they reach maturity at a smaller weight, but if they are unable to return then I would guess that they would grow, but maybe not reach the weights attained by landlocked females in lower stock densities. Not sure about this, though. However, I would put money on finding big eels in a crayfish rich lake with only a few eels. Mind you, odds are I’d lose it, the eel being an unpredicatable beast. It seems to be generally accepted that the increase in barbel and chub weights is, in part, due to a crayfish diet, especially when there is a low fish stock level. The Old Lea is a good example of this.

I, too, used to wonder about the current fad for "dumping" leads, as , like you, I had fished for carp since 1968 without losing fish because a lead had snagged. It has now occured to me that, almost without exception, the writers of carp articles today are sponsored by tackle companies who sell, amongst other items, leads. What a wonderful opportunity to sell more leads-make 'em fall off every time you hook a fish! I always use a link to the lead that is 75% of the BS of my mainline, and seldom lose a lead. It breaks my heart that I am not adding to the profits of the lead manufacturers! Add to that the advice to change the hook after every fish, rather than sharpen it, and you have the answer to built in obsolescence!

Yes, smaller leads are certainly quieter!

I would not advocate big leads as a matter of course. Given the opportunity, I would freeline, as I am doing at this very moment, using clonking great deadbaits in the margins - no need for leads here! In some circumstances (upstream legering, for example) I usually opt for just enough to hold bottom, but on occasion I've used big leads to combat adverse conditions. If you require low resistance with sensitivity then a large lead is critical. Anderoo's point is good-using a link of appropriate length to prevent the run ring ending up in silt or weed does the trick. I use a cork ball up against the run ring and semi rigid tube over the mono link. That way, the line runs freely through the ring. A lead of under 3ozs will follow the fish on a run, bouncing and clattering along on the gravel or snagging in the weed. This will not affect a daft carp or barbel that has already hooked itself, but may well cause a shy predator to drop a bait, as they often do. With 30 or 40lb braid there is little risk of cracking off, and even the 40 lb test is only the diameter of 10lb mono. Try experimenting with different lead sizes in a tank or bath. It as suprising how light a 1oz lead is under water, and how easily it moves against the resistance of an indicator. Even on gravel there is little grip with smaller leads. Oddly, I have found that small leads are just as effective as large with bolt rigs.

Crayfish = monster eels. Baits Dysoned 18" of bottom are crayfish proof.

This thread: http://www.anglersnet.co.uk/forums/Roll-bi...s-t4104486.html : covered the Rollover and its use as a drop back indicator in some detail. The rollover is arguably the most effective indicator for eel fishing, although Barry originally intended it for zander. The "drop back" function is irrelevent if you use a big enough lead. I have found that anything less than 3oz is likely to move during a run, and for Dyson rigs 4oz is more appropriate. Ceramic run rings as a running link instead of swivels will also help, as friction is reduced. If the lead stays put then drop back indication is unnecessary. Short hook lengths (less than 6"), braid and optonics (sorry, I mean Delkims-showing my age there-at least I didn't put Herons!!) will give you a sensitive set up that will give a bleep if an eel even looks at a bait. This is critical for the eel that decides to sit still and devour your offering prior to moving off, and makes early striking critical.

I was fortunate to be asked to witness the fish-a magnificent beast, and a tremendous achievement!