braided loops

[Tony U]

OT where do you get your softex from? I need some for my salt water flies

 

Tony

[OwdTrout]

Sorry but i can't get it any more. My last lot came from Lathkill but that was years ago. A quick search has brought nothing up. You could use one of the wader repair adhesives in place of it.

 

Cheers

OT

[Worms]

Sorry but i can't get it any more. My last lot came from Lathkill but that was years ago. A quick search has brought nothing up. You could use one of the wader repair adhesives in place of it.

 

Cheers

OT

I haven't tried it on modern plastic lines but I use a 3:1 mix of boiled linseed oil:yacht varnish to refinish silk lines. It takes a while to dry, but I should imagine it would work as a sealant on modern lines especially if it's only the last few inches.

[Meps]

Meps are you using a fluoro carbon leader or a leaded or weighted point fly? If so the thin tip of your fly line may sink; I always gink up the end of the line and the braided loop as this generally keeps the end up in the water.

However id you are using really heavy weighted nymphs then the the tip of the fly line will still sink what ever you do, you could use a buoyant sight bob to try to keep the nymphs suspended and the fly line on top of the water

 

Tony,

 

no I've specifically changed from Fluoro to see if that was the cause - it wasn't. And i still get a sink at the tip with the skinniest buzzers. I'll try the grease advice this weekend and see what happens. It may be that i'm expecting miracles but it just seems to me that when the busness end of the fly line sinks it presents the flies (buzzers are my main concern) on the diagonal rather than on the hover..

I'll keep trying but at least yours and other answers prove i'm not doing anything totally dumb!!!

Thanks for your time...!

[Meps]

Often this problem is caused in the manufacture of the line. Lines are extruded in a continuous length. Then cut to size. this leaves the end of the line open to water ingress.

 

Also if your line doesn't have a crack in it now it soon will have. You have glued the sleeve over the braid. Creating a very stiff section. This will eventually cause the line to crack. You will soon have to cut the end off and replace the loop.

 

I've given up on braided loops. The method I use is to strip the last 3/8" (8mm) of coating off the core. Fold this back and whip it to the line to form a loop. I coat the whippings with "Softex", but you will have difficulty getting this. PVA glue with a little water added will do, but make sure it is dry before you fish it. This gives me the benefit of sealing the end of the line as well as making a smooth loop.

 

Cheers,

OT

 

Nice one. Thanks

[Alan Roe]

Like Owd trout I gave up on braided loops years ago and returned to an earlier technology and simple nail knot a short length of strong mono anything over 25lb bs is good enough onto the end of the fly line and put a loop in that.

I never have a problem with it youu can use a tiny spot of glue to seal the end but quite honestly I have never bothered.

[Steve Walker]

Also if your line doesn't have a crack in it now it soon will have. You have glued the sleeve over the braid. Creating a very stiff section. This will eventually cause the line to crack. You will soon have to cut the end off and replace the loop.

 

That was my understanding too - I did try it once, and didn't like it (although it was the first time I used a braided loop, and I had trouble believing that it could really stay on the line - still do, if I'm honest). I also just don't like the idea of using superglue in a wet environment. I took it off and replaced it without the glue, and it never let me down. I replaced it again for my trip to Bushyleaze, because it had an annoying tendency to sink, using an Airflo floating version instead of the Greys generic version, and that seems fine without glue too (and floats better). I notice, however, that the Snowbee line I've just bought comes with a pair of them, and the instructions suggest using glue.

[OwdTrout]

Several years ago I bought a new floating line which came with two braided loops. I can't now remember if it was Grays or Snowbie but it was one or t'other. The loops were small and secured with a drop of super glue. This prevented me shoving the end of the line into the double walled section of the loop. The resulting gap was so soft that I couldn't get my leader to turn over at all. After struggling with it for half an hour or so I took the loop off and nail less nail knotted a length of heavy mono on to the line. Suddenly I could cast again. If you do use a braided loop don't be tempted to secure the loop with super glue. That is where one end of the braid enters the other. Thread your line into the loop a point where it is inside the inner section of braid then put the tubing on.

 

Another way of attaching your leader is this very neat way.

 

Also there is the way that Dave Whitlock uses. Stick a needle into the line at the tip and out the side. Take the needle out and work the butt of your tapered leader into the fly line. Secure with a drop of Zap-A-Gap super glue. He has even used this method for bone fish. He might, I don't have the confidence.

 

Cheers,

 

O.T.

[Tony U]

Sorry but i can't get it any more. My last lot came from Lathkill but that was years ago. A quick search has brought nothing up. You could use one of the wader repair adhesives in place of it.

 

Cheers

OT

 

Great idea OT thanks.

 

Tony

[andros]

Braided loops are suspect and can 'unravel' - I and a lot of people I know have given them up. For trout you can't beat a nail knot between the butt of your leader and fly line using one of the many tools you can now buy. They float better and cause less disturbance on the water.

Andros