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Early season small streams


Anderoo

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If its legal I'm happy for you to do it, (unless you enjoy it, in which case it is probably illegal). I have tried this and I don't do it now. I have learned to do things properly and, I suspect, using indicators slowed the process down.

 

I tend not to use split shot. Remember in Yankiestan they can still use lead in many places. For a given weight the shot tends to be smaller. Do the science yourself, it starts "If a body is totally or partially immersed in a fluid..." So for a given weight in a given flow the lead shot will fish deeper.

 

Then there is the other thing. I dislike having to fish in a motor cycle helmet. It just isn't the correct millinery for fly fishing. Fish with split shot on your line and you'll soon know what I mean.

 

Cheers,

OT

"Not a shred of evidence exists in favor of the idea that life is serious"

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Yes, I've once had a weighted nymph to the back of the head and that stung a bit (even through a hat), so I think I know what you mean!

 

I can see the logic of that rig I linked to, but then if we were being logical and efficient about it, I'd be planning to use a stick float and a couple of pints of maggots! I suppose the presentation that rig achieves could also be created by fishing the duo method with a second nymph on a dropper a little way up from the point, the disadvantage being that the nymph on the point would be more likely to snag the bottom than a split shot.

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Thanks everyone for your replies :thumbs:

 

I have so far resisted the urge to use a strike indicator and have been perservering with a single nymph fished upstream, and watching the end of the fly line for bites. It is difficult, but I am determined to master it! The use of split shot is to get unweighted flies down through the water, if I don't have a weighted version on me. You're right though, it does make casting...interesting :rolleyes:

 

I'm sure that has been the problem with wets fished down and across - wrong depth and dodgy presentation. If fish are near the surface I'll try them upstream, but will probably still stick to a single fly.

 

I do also think that one of the main reason I catch less early season is because the water is low and crystal clear, and the weed hasn't come up yet, so I stand out like a swishing sore thumb! Working very quietly upstream is the way to go, I'm sure.

 

Tomorrow evening will be my first attempt of the year, together with Steve. I can't wait! Hopefully we can show you photos of lovely fit, beautiful, wild trout in a couple of days...

And those who were seen dancing were thought to be insane by those who could not hear the music

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Thanks everyone for your replies :thumbs:

 

I have so far resisted the urge to use a strike indicator and have been perservering with a single nymph fished upstream, and watching the end of the fly line for bites. It is difficult, but I am determined to master it! The use of split shot is to get unweighted flies down through the water, if I don't have a weighted version on me. You're right though, it does make casting...interesting :rolleyes:

 

I'm sure that has been the problem with wets fished down and across - wrong depth and dodgy presentation. If fish are near the surface I'll try them upstream, but will probably still stick to a single fly.

 

I do also think that one of the main reason I catch less early season is because the water is low and crystal clear, and the weed hasn't come up yet, so I stand out like a swishing sore thumb! Working very quietly upstream is the way to go, I'm sure.

 

Tomorrow evening will be my first attempt of the year, together with Steve. I can't wait! Hopefully we can show you photos of lovely fit, beautiful, wild trout in a couple of days...

 

As regards bite indicators, OT's white foam bob fly is probably the best kind......it's got a hook in as well :P

I have tried this and I don't do it now. I have learned to do things properly and, I suspect, using indicators slowed the process down.

I did it the other way round, I learnt 'properly' on larger rivers than where I fish now. Some of these are only 6-8 feet wide with 'knitted' alders for walls and ceiling! Bite indicator putty is invaluable when it's too dark to see the line. It certainly is a successful method in some of these little streams.

 

I just found this, probably a little late but quite interesting and it covers all options!http://www.flyfishinggear.info/how_to/wet_fly_fishing.shtm

 

Tight lines!

Eating wild caught fish is good for my health, reduces food miles and keeps me fit trying to catch them........it's my choice to do it, not yours to stop me!

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How long is a piece of string and what colour is it? :P

 

You'll probably get as many different answers to that as there are fly patterns!

 

I try and watch the fish if the water is clear enough. There may well be good hatches but, as you say nothing may be rising to them. I observed a few fish the other day, wild brownies in 1'-3' of water. They were all taking food just off the bottom. This was however at about midday.

 

Choice of wet or nymph would initially depend on the state of the water. If it's clear and I can see the fish and they are holding station I would start by casting to them upstream with a nymph, especially if they are targeting food rolling/swimming down with the current. If the water is not as clear or I cannot see the fish, or they seem to be darting about I would generally use a wet and cast either upstream or upstream and across in shallow water. with a tendancy to fish across/across and down if the water was slow.

 

My first option would be a lightly weighted nymph cast upstream. If the fish are at the head of a pool I cast a shaky line well upstream then strip the line in quickly as it comes back to me. This allows the nymph to overtake the line and drop low in the water. As it comes into the pool the undertow drags it down to the level of the fish. Nymphs that I generally use at this time of the year are Pheasant tail and Blue Winged Olive. Shrimp copies can be good as well. If the fish are taking food midwater I would use an unweighted nymph, if just under the surface, again an unweighted nymph with a greased leader.

 

I tend to fish wet if I am not sure where the fish are or they are more active. Frequently a team of two can produce with a bushier fly as a bob fly (top dropper, nearest the fly line) and a wet fly on the point (end of the leader). On my local river I typically use a cocch-y-bondu bob and partridge and orange point. Klinkhammers can be useful here as a bob fly and a combination of bob fly and nymph can be interesting as well!

 

I tend to find that sparsely dressed flies kill better early on in my water but experiment! Evening fishing can be well worth the effort at this time of year especially if the weather has been warm during the day. A good evening hatch will often get the fish in a suicidal frenzy for about 30-40 minutes just as it's getting too dark to see. Small Klinkhammers can come into their own here, they sit just through the water surface and you can see the tuft better!

 

I use indicator putty, especially on rippled water and when the light is fading when nymphing and I frequently use a very short leader of 4'-5'.

 

Hook sizes are another issue. I spent about 45 minutes last spring trying to hook a wild brown on the Irthon under an alder tree. It was taking medium sized green naturals. It repeatedly took but rejected my (dry) Greenwells. I changed sizes until I eventually took him on a size 20!

 

Here he is all 1lb of him!

post-14528-1238494942_thumb.jpg

 

Experiment, experiment, experiment and don't worry about being too conventional!

 

Tight lines.

 

An update! Just been down to the river with the dog, a mixed hatch and fish bulging and taking surface flies so I'm off this evening for some sub-surface nymphing!

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