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Braided cast connector breaking


Jim Murray

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Has anyone else had this happen? Was out pike fly fishing recently and when snagged the connector just broke at the loop(12lb. leader).

 

Should they be changed regularly? I thought that once you had them on they'd be bomb-proof....

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I have never had one break, but I do change mine every few trips, especially if I have had fish, or had to pull out of a snag.

My simple mind says that nothing is made to last for ever.

"I gotta go where its warm, I gotta fly to saint somewhere "

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Ive had them unravel at the splice before now, they deffenatly have a usable life the floating ones start to sink before they fail mechanicly and that in its self warrents a change.

Someone once said to me "Dont worry It could be worse." So I didn't, and It was!

 

 

 

 

انا آكل كل الفطائر

 

I made a vow today, to never again argue with an Idiot they have more expieriance at it than I so I always seem to lose!

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Are these what you mean? I usually change mine at least once a season. Like certain types of mono, they can be susceptible to UV and start to become brittle.

 

Thanks for the reminder. I need to change mine!

Jeff

 

Piscator non solum piscatur.

 

Yellow Prowler13

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I hate the things. I've had them break first time out. I usually strip back a couple of inches of flyline and expose the braid core. This I tie into a loop with a double overhand knot, teased up to the new butt of the flyline. This never gives problems and passes up and down through the flyrod eyes without catching.

Warning, this does not work with cheaper flylines...they don't always have a braided core. :lol:

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I usually strip back a couple of inches of flyline and expose the braid core. This I tie into a loop with a double overhand knot, teased up to the new butt of the flyline. This never gives problems and passes up and down through the flyrod eyes without catching.

Warning, this does not work with cheaper flylines...they don't always have a braided core. :lol:

 

That seems like a great method...why haven't I heard of it before? The only alternative to the loops seems to be the nail knot which I've found fiddly.

 

Does anyone know why fly lines don't come with a loop permanently attached anyway?

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That seems like a great method...why haven't I heard of it before? The only alternative to the loops seems to be the nail knot which I've found fiddly.

 

Does anyone know why fly lines don't come with a loop permanently attached anyway?

 

 

Some do at both ends as well!!!!

 

The Nail Knot is a good alternative And no more fiddley than tying droppers or making taperd cast One thing you can try is turn over a short section of tip and whip it to its self to form a loop finnish this whipping off with UV reactive glue, the type that you patch your waders with. its not brilliant for wieght forward floating lines over a 5wt as the loop can be a bit bulky but for Ghost tip and clear intermidiates its great because the loop is invisible once in the water.

 

Greg some of the dearer lines have a Mono core These days, would your method work on these I like the sound of it?

Someone once said to me "Dont worry It could be worse." So I didn't, and It was!

 

 

 

 

انا آكل كل الفطائر

 

I made a vow today, to never again argue with an Idiot they have more expieriance at it than I so I always seem to lose!

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Btw what's the best way to strip the sheath off without damaging the core?

 

Jim

 

Best method i have found is by using a length of nylon line doubled over the flyline, pull tight and then down the line. This generally strips the plastic coating off the line fairly easily.

 

I then whip a loop on the line by doubling over the braided core of the fly line and whipping it together with fly tying thread and varnishing.

 

This makes for a very tidy and reliable loop and only takes a few minutes.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Whatever loop you go for, you should check its integrity before every trip, and on a busy day you could do worse than check it once or twice during the session. Braided loops can have a tendency to hinge which fatigues the fly line/loop junction. I've noticed this especially when using a sleeve to secure the braided loop (These days I like to needle knot my leader directly to my fly line.).

 

You can whip the braid loop to the fly line or for a smoother effect you use a braided tapered leader and whip that to the line.

 

Alternatively, Rio manufacture lines with end loops built-in, as do a couple other manufacturers (Orvis for one?).

 

Talking DIY... There was an article in FF&FT a few seasons back about using shrink tubing and a flame to form your own welded loops....

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