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My Rod Restoration Project


Rusty

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An update on progress, pics to follow.

 

Scraping/sanding of all three blank sections is almost complete, a tedious task but necessary if the final finish is to be any good.

 

The cork handle was coated with washing up liquid, wrapped in cling film and after being left overnight given a good scrub. The results are remarkable and I was tempted to leave as is but there are lots of dings and ‘crevices’ so it’ll be filled and sanded back.

 

Where I’m a bit stuck is deciding which blank varnish to go for. Ideally I’d like a simple non-mix product that can be applied by brush, my local tackle shop suggested Humbrol enamel but there are a number of different products available. It’ll also need to be compatible with the whipping finish which’ll be slow Araldite.

 

Any ideas?

 

 

 

I used some varnish called pro rod varnish. It's got a yeollow sticker on the container. I think it's usually available on ebay. I think humbrol's ok also and there are lots of people who use it.

 

Here's the item number of some pro rod on ebay 350281524549

Edited by Tigger
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Might I suggest that when you apply the varnish, don't use a brush. Wipe in on with a sponge or similar. Much easier to get is smooth, and two thin coats are much better than one thick one ;)

The other thing, to hold the blank whilst applying the varnish get an old biro and build it up with masking tape so that it is a snug fit into the female end. This gives you something to hold and allows you to varnish the whole section.

I am in the middle of refurbing 3 Harrison Ballista carp rods but I am really just tarting them up TBH

Good fun though :)

Let's agree to respect each others views, no matter how wrong yours may be.

 

 

Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity

 

 

 

http://www.safetypublishing.co.uk/
http://www.safetypublishing.ie/

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Pics of the stripped and cleaned rod, quite a difference to how it started out.

 

Removing the old varnish revealed some flaws in the blank particularly the centre section, things like nicks and small craters. It wouldn’t have been a high end rod so I guess it’s just a case of the selling price reflecting the quality of the blank. None looked serious so on the basis that it was ok before I started I’ll be leaving well alone.

 

Getting a bit nervous now, the sanded finish provides an ideal key for the new varnish and if I balls it up it’ll be back to square one. Still I’ll be filling and sanding the handle first so I can put it off for a bit.

 

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It's never a 'six', let's put it back

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Rusty I reckon my whipping and hi-building of whippings is as good as anyone’s but I have never if I’m honest been 100% confident in varnishing a blank! Luckily most modern blanks come with the resin giving a perfectly acceptable finish so there is no need!

 

When I’m doing complete strip downs/rebuilds/renovations coating the blank (if needed) it is the only bit I have ever worried about! BUT inevitably it turns out ok! This really is the main reason that I don’t offer my services (professionally) for cane rods.

 

Some blanks that come with a matt finish I have found look great with a dozen or so applications of polymer based car waxes such as Turtle Wax. With this you never get a true high gloss finish but you do get a nice even "silk" finish that not only improves with additional coats but is quite hard wearing.

And thats my "non indicative opinion"!

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Sorry but just got to pipe up here. You are looking for too quick and easy a finish...DON'T BE LAZY get suck in with the elbow grease and your arm will ache.

 

I use an external/exterior yacht varnish a diamond finish hard glaze, to start with.

 

2nd EDIT:

Remember to use the wet and dry, wet and to wipe it every few rubs on a piece of soap (I use Imperial Leather) this helps it slide easily and helps prevent it cutting the varnish too much.

END 2nd EDIT:

 

I give the rod a complete coat of thinned down varnish I thin the first coat by 50 to 60% sometimes more give it 3 (YES THREE) days to harden I then lightly sand it with the finest wet and dry paper I have.

 

WATCH OUT FOR RUNS...don't put too much on the brush

 

The next 2 coats exactly the same;

 

Then I increase the strength of the varnish by diluting it less 3 more coats each with 3 days drying time between coats;

 

Then a further 3 coats Still diluted I rub each coat down with AJAX scouring powder using a Tee shirt you can add a few drops of washing up liquid if you want.

 

Then comes the final coat which can be Gloss, Silk, Satin or Matt to choice.

 

I personally like a gloss finish although I do not give it to all my rods but the final few hours polish I do with cooking flour You can then use a polish like turtle wax it you so choose.

 

Shine a light on the rod at different angles before each and every sanding session looking for imperfections that need to be identified and dealt with.

 

EDIT:

Before anyone asks I do not make rods for sale just for me.

END EDIT

Edited by watatoad

From a spark a fire will flare up

English by birth, Cockney by the Grace of God

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How are you getting on with your project?

 

I wonder how many others are getting ready to start a similar project after reading how well you are doing and how knowledgeable you are. I expect many will benefit from your advice on rod restoration.

 

Your stripping of the old varnish is brilliant and I hope many on here follow your lead and restore their old rods.

Edited by watatoad

From a spark a fire will flare up

English by birth, Cockney by the Grace of God

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How are you getting on with your project?

 

I wonder how many others are getting ready to start a similar project after reading how well you are doing and how knowledgeable you are. I expect many will benefit from your advice on rod restoration.

 

Your stripping of the old varnish is brilliant and I hope many on here follow your lead and restore their old rods.

 

Thank you Watatoad. The apparent lack of activity has been because I couldn't find a supplier of the Pit Paste and wasn't sure which varnish to use. Both problems now solved and the stuff arrived today so I'll be messing about in the shed later, should have an update with pics tomorrow or Friday.

It's never a 'six', let's put it back

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After spending a while tracking down the elusive Pit Paste and losing sleep over which varnish to use I eventually decided on the simple but time consuming approach.

 

My local tackle shop advised me to use Humrol enamel and buy a sort of rod rotisserie to stop it running after being applied but as I probably won’t do this again I didn’t think that the cost was justified. I did consider buying a hamster and exercise wheel and was just evaluating a few fat specimens for potential torque output when my conscience got the better of me. Nope the varnish was going to be water based, applied several times by cloth in very thin coats and rubbed down in between each one (credit goes at least three contributors for that help).

 

The parcel arrived, it was a very small jiffy bag, it seems that £10 doesn’t buy much of this stuff.

 

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The handle first and it was soon apparent that you don’t actually need very much paste even when filling a well pitted handle. I’ve applied too much in the picture so to compare between applied and sanded, I could have got away with less.

 

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I used a knife to work it into the pits, I tried using my finger but found that heat transfer would start to dry the paste out and make it unworkable, the instructions say that it can be sanded in an hour but I left it overnight to be sure. I then wrapped some medium grade wet and dry around a scrap piece of 2 x 2 and used it (dry) to sand the handle while I rotated the blank.

 

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Not too bad a result but I think I was a bit over enthusiastic with the sanding so I’ll be giving the handle another filling and more careful finishing.

 

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On the subject of the handle I’d like to seal it once completed. There’s a fair bit of water based filler in it and I can just imagine it all falling out if the handle gets too wet in use. Would sealing be a good idea do you think?

 

On to the blank and the bit I’ve been dreading.

 

The reason for choosing a water based runny varnish was simple. I would only be able to apply in thin coats and if something went wrong between coats I could recover the situation, one thick gloopy application would be a nightmare to get off again if the hamster went on strike. The downside is that this type of varnish has no filling properties so if you do want a nice finish a good base and lots of thin applications is the only way.

 

The butt section after one coat.

 

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The middle section.

 

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The tip section.

 

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After the first coat all that’s happened is that the dings and flaws have become shiny and obvious rather than matt and hidden. This’ll improve with each sanding and coating but it’ll take a while and maybe another pot of varnish, we’ll see.

 

What I’m really pleased with is the way the colour is coming out, the old varnish would’ve become opaque with age and the rod did look very dark. Now it’s beginning to look how it should.

It's never a 'six', let's put it back

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First things first.

 

This is a brilliant thread full of lots of great tips and idea's for everyone novice and expert alike, it you could give medals on here I would give Rustly the top one and a few of those wellinformed tips, advice and idea's would also be receiving medals, you are all just great and I congratulate you all but expecially Rusty.

 

I have certainly learnt a thing or two and although some may accuse me of being otherwise I am not too big headed nor too up my own rear to admit I have learnt a thing or two and had such pleasure reading and looking at the pictures from all the contributors on this thread.

 

Hehehe! Sorry but it's my fault for not mentioning this I should have, I just though everyone knew...hehehe...when its rubbed down I get a pretty wet cloth and rub it down with that you soon see all the imperfections if you look carefully, I have a friend who wipes his with a watered down coat of washing up liquid (which he washes off very carefuly or it can cause a problem with some varnishes. The end result from the blank will be easy if you have really smoothed the blank down otherwise its a case of and I repeat myself multiple coats very carefully rubbed down. If you want a great mirror finish to rival the older Rolls Royce paint jobs (which I understand used up to 10 coats of primer followed by 12 coats of paint and 18 coats of lacquer or varnish (I could be wrong but Rolls Royce have frequently changed their formula) you will find that often the first few coats of varnish are just used just to fill the imperfections, a bit like primer on a car, sorry it does mean a lot of rubbing down... WARNING.!.DO NOT SIT IN YOUR LIVING ROOM WATCHING T.V. AS YOU RUB IT DOWN.

 

She who must be obeyed will complain about the smell, the mess and the annoying scratching sound, which although you might not hear it, she will explain in great detail that she cannot hear the television for it...In fairness it can smell all newly varnished rods do.

 

The handle cork has become a traditional material for handles because cork can be easily finished off smooth using a mixture of fine cork dust mixed with waterproof wood glue or perhaps varnish (have a word with our great floatmakers on AN for some cork dust if you have binned all yours or toss a fine cork (one with few holes and imperfections) from a good bottle of wine into the blender/liquidiser...Don't let her catch you...hehehe or you could sand a cork down...much harder work...if she catches you you may have to go to the Doctor to have it removed which may be embarassing...hehehe

 

I digress fine cork is used for handles because it absorbs sweat/moisture from the anglers hand so some will say don't protect the cork...me I believe you must do what you feel happiest with, while remembering a shiny or non pourous finish may cause blisters if you are handling the rod a lot and might even become slippery and require a firmer/stronger grip to maintain control over the rod.

 

As this is a leger rod that may not be a consideration.

From a spark a fire will flare up

English by birth, Cockney by the Grace of God

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