When to strike when float fishing

[tiddlertamer]

I spend most of my time float fishing on rivers – trotting a stick float.

Sometimes, the float will disappear, I strike, and I'm into a fish.

At other times, the float will waver, maybe dip, but not disappear. I strike and lo and behold I'm into a fish.

At other times, the float will waver, maybe dip, but not disappear. I won't strike but when I retrieve my line, the bait has been stolen.

At other times, the float will waver, maybe dip, but not disappear. I will strike but there is no sign of a fish.

Now of course, every river is different, varying weather conditions and the different types and sizes of fish play a part in my question.

Getting to the point though, here is my question.

 

Should I, in most occasions actually wait for the magical disappearance of the float before striking?

By striking as soon as the float makes the slightest deviation, am I on the whole striking too soon?

[chavender]

yes & no

 

 

 

Should I, in most occasions actually wait for the magical disappearance of the float before striking?

By striking as soon as the float makes the slightest deviation { yes } , am I on the whole striking too soon? { no }

[chavender]

on second thoughts maybe ,strikng a fraction of a second too soon is par for the course when trotting ,as is strkng too hard and pulling the bait out of the fishes mouths.getting it just right on the day is the challenge !

[Guest Rabbit]

I spend most of my time float fishing on rivers – trotting a stick float.

Sometimes, the float will disappear, I strike, and I'm into a fish.

At other times, the float will waver, maybe dip, but not disappear. I strike and lo and behold I'm into a fish.

At other times, the float will waver, maybe dip, but not disappear. I won't strike but when I retrieve my line, the bait has been stolen.

At other times, the float will waver, maybe dip, but not disappear. I will strike but there is no sign of a fish.

Now of course, every river is different, varying weather conditions and the different types and sizes of fish play a part in my question.

Getting to the point though, here is my question.

 

Should I, in most occasions actually wait for the magical disappearance of the float before striking?

By striking as soon as the float makes the slightest deviation, am I on the whole striking too soon?

 

Do it enough times and you will know, there are no rules.

[Ken L]

Of course, being a Midlander, the usual advice that I should give is "Use a feeder", but I never could stand feeder fishing if I was fishing somewhere where I could trot a float.

 

Dipping floats can be caused by lots of things including fish that are spitting the bait out faster than you can strike, a covergence of currents or the line dragging on something (the bottom or weed) as the float goes down.

 

Personally, I would start out by striking at any indication that there may be a bite, whether this is the float burrying, pausing, rising, wobling, moving to the side unexpectedly or simply not settleing correctly on casting. After a short time, you will realise that a particular swim consistantly gives false indications in the same spot and either ignore the false bites at that point or hold back to bring the tackle up and over whatever obstruction is down there.

 

If the bites are simply to fast to hit, ring the changes. You can go finer to try to increase the fishes confidence, you can go heavier to try to get through the small stuff that you can't hit and get a bite from bigger fish, you can change your feeding pattern to either get the fish compeating or "feed off" the small fry that are getting to your bait before the bigger fish. Changing the depth and or shotting or holding back more or less can also dramatically change your hookup ratio.

[Chris Plumb]

On fast flowing rivers - like wot I usually fish - striking as such isn't really necessary. If you're in constant contact with the float (a centrepin reel helps immeasurably with this) and using a braid such as Fireline (great for trottings as it floats and 'mends' well) then a simple tightening of the line is often all thats needed. Check the reel with your thumb is maybe all thats needed - perhaps accompanied with a merest flick of the wrist. Striking too hard can pull the bait out of the mouth and disturb the swim if the float is constantly causing a disturbance on the surface... When I'm trotting I'll tighten up at ANYTHING the float does which I consider usual - a slight change of direction, a slowing in the current etc. At the end of the trot try holding back for several seconds (I often count to 20!) - with the bait fluttering in the current - fish will often hook themselves - no strike needed!

 

 

C.

[Andy Macfarlane]

Any deviation in the movement of the float is an indication that the bait is being interfered with and a 'strike' is warranted immediately IMO. At worst, the hook is finding the bottom and that 'strike' is usually enough to free it, before it finds a proper hold/snag.

I don't buy the idea that you must wait for the float to dip out of view before striking. What is it that you are waiting for when/if that actually happens?

Hit any peculiar movements if you ask me.

[Jeff S]

...and forever will I hear my Grandfather say "Wait til the float goes under!"

[tiddlertamer]

On fast flowing rivers - like wot I usually fish - striking as such isn't really necessary. If you're in constant contact with the float (a centrepin reel helps immeasurably with this) and using a braid such as Fireline (great for trottings as it floats and 'mends' well) then a simple tightening of the line is often all thats needed. Check the reel with your thumb is maybe all thats needed - perhaps accompanied with a merest flick of the wrist. Striking too hard can pull the bait out of the mouth and disturb the swim if the float is constantly causing a disturbance on the surface... When I'm trotting I'll tighten up at ANYTHING the float does which I consider usual - a slight change of direction, a slowing in the current etc. At the end of the trot try holding back for several seconds (I often count to 20!) - with the bait fluttering in the current - fish will often hook themselves - no strike needed!

 

 

C.

 

 

On the whole, if I strike at slight dips of the float, I strike into nothing and sometimes make a complete ham-fisted and clumsy mess by launching my tackle back at myself. Do'h. Obviously I'm striking too hard - I guess when I strike too lamely the fish invariably come off before I land them so I need to find a happy medium.

It does seem to be the case when I wait for the float to disappear then I invariably catch but I do wonder if I am missing too much on the way...

 

Others have recommended braid to me over monofilament whilst others swear it is not necessary. What do other anglers net members think?

[Mat Hillman]

Others have recommended braid to me over monofilament whilst others swear it is not necessary. What do other anglers net members think?

 

I like fireline for trotting, as Chris says it really does make a difference, but prefer mono for stillwater floatfishing as I find it much easier to sink it than the fireline!

 

Mat