Your Main-line BRAIDS: Which one(s)? For what? Why? Cost?

[Cranfield]

My friends are currently paying the following, for PowerPro.

I have made the currency conversion using $1.80 to the £1.

1500 yard spools....£54.45... 8 to 50 lb bs.

500 yard spools....£19.79 " "

300 yard spools....£13.74 " "

150 yard spools....£8.32 " "

 

These are basic prices and there are always special offers, etc., available.

[kleinboet]

D.G. - I want to load a couple of spools with braid but I have been put off by other anglers telling me that you have to use special knots - where can I find an idiot-proof website that will show me how to tie them. :confused: :confused:

[The Diamond Geezer]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Cranfield:

My friends are currently paying the following, for PowerPro.

 

I have made the currency conversion using $1.80 to the £1.

1500 yard spools....£54.45... 8 to 50 lb bs.

500 yard spools....£19.79 " "

300 yard spools....£13.74 " "

150 yard spools....£8.32 " "

 

These are basic prices and there are always special offers, etc., available.

---

Thanks for that extra $$ info, Cranfield

The States seems to be be place to buy PowerPro.

I guess even if you buy it mail-order, with the Exchange-rate the way it is at present, you can still get it $/£ cheaper shipping to the UK.

 

Rip-off UK, if you ask me! :mad:

 

DG

[Newt]

Even a bit better than that right now Cranfield.

 

1.00 GBP = 1.86777 USD

[Andy Macfarlane]

kleinboet:

D.G. - I want to load a couple of spools with braid but I have been put off by other anglers telling me that you have to use special knots - where can I find an idiot-proof website that will show me how to tie them.          :confused:            :confused:  

I didn't use any special knots to attach my braid to the multiplier or to the snap link and I couldn't break the stuff leaning back on my heels. I read about this braid and this strength and this knot and that knot. I just wonder exactly what these anglers are fishing for. Are they fishing for lorries and trucks perhaps??

Anyway...heres some knots recommended by PowerPro.

 

PowerPro Knots...click here

[The Diamond Geezer]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Cranfield:

My friends {in the States ? - DG}are currently paying the following, for PowerPro. I have made the currency conversion using $1.80 to the £1.

 

300 yard spools....£13.74 " "

150 yard spools....£8.32 " "

 

These are basic prices and there are always special offers, etc., available.

---

I think I'll try to do a price comparison summary at the end of this thread

 

DG

[Dick Dastardly]

A lot to cover here DG but I will try to be brief.

As you know I have used braid for 15 or so years now.Initially started using it for float fishing from a boat for Pike purely as it floated without the need for greasing up.I soon grew to apreciate its lack of stretch as well.The setting of the hooks when piking was far superior.Another thing was that you could pick up the line to the float and feel if the live bait was still working even at range.The more dirrect feel was also a great advantage when lure fishing.In the summer months I started to use it for floater fishing for carp its low stretch and floating properties being most usefull here to.After two yeads I had moved on to braid for all of my pike fishing but still stayed with mono for my "bottom" carp fishing and other species.It soon became apparent that the "high abrassion resistance claims" were dubious to say the least however I soon came to the conclusion that this was no doubt related to the much finer diameter.I decided to try the same tactic that I had with the "low diameter" nylon hooklengths ie Double Strength and that was to select the size of the braid I used by diameter rather than breaking strength.I now use braid for all but light float fishing and heavy duty carp snag fishing.For ledgering with a quiver tip the bite detection is superb.

 

All the braids I now use are floating braids.I find this causes no problems even when fishing sub surface.I tried a sinking feeder braid from Fox and found it crap.Havnt tried any of the other sinking brands but have never really felt the need.

 

The only braid I have ever brought at retail was the first one I ever tried from the US it was Fenwick Iron Thread.All others I have either recieved FOC or purchased at trade.How ever I still think that if you shop around especially from the states you can get braid at a cost effective price.Consider that I would change my 15lb Maxima each Pike season.Some of my reels have 5year old braid on which still hasnt been reversed.My light boat (pike) multipliers still have some origonal LEEDA Outcast on God knows how long thats been on.Cost? Never bothered to work out cost per metre or to see how different brands compare price wise.Always decided which braid suits my need best then found out where I can get it at the best price.Nine times out of ten the large US outfitters are the best bet.

 

 

Special knots? I use a grinner knot with no problems.I do double the line before passing it through a swivel though.I use a drop of super glue on the finnished knot but this is merely to tidy the resulting double tag ends.

 

"Cushioning leaders"? For Pike I tie the braid directly to the trace be it spinning trace.uptrace or snap tackle.For bottom fishing for carp I use a shock/snag/rubbing leader of about 15'made from a suitable matiriel.Floater fishing straight to the swivel that the hook length attachs to.For feeder fishing I tie on a rod length of a suitable size mono purely because I prefer to tie my feeder rigs in mono.Catting straight to the swivel.

 

Differnt types of braids? I prefer tightly woven,round profile braids using either spectra or kevlar fibres.Not keen on the "fused" braids.

 

I use braid on both multipliers and fixed spools.

 

 

I have used many different braids so will only list the ones I would have no hesitation in reccomending-

 

Spiderwire-expensive but very good for all species

 

Cabelas Rip Cord- Cheaper available in bulk but not quite as tightly braided.

 

Cabelas Rip Cord SI-2nd generation of above.smaller diameter but not as long lasting.

 

A bulk braid Luke purchases from Balzar (a German firm) for our catting.(can not remember the name,it might not even have one)Cheap as chips,thicker than most modern braids but good on abrassion,get two seasons guiding out of it if it is reversed.

 

This may supprise a few.Fox Drift or Troll Master (I cant remember which one it is but the heavier of the two.30lb?)Got this out of my trade catalogue to try it and have had it on four of my bank piking reels for 5 seasons and it is still ok.

 

Not available anymore but still a few spools knocking around in the shops-LEEDA OutCast.Despite my not liking flat profile braids in general I found this one very good.Well long lasting.

 

Tried out some of the origonal Spiderwire Stealth and wasnt over keen but the newer version is ok and is realy just to Spiderwire as Ripcord SI is to Ripcord,a second generation.

 

A couple of observations ref braid-

before attaching to spool add a couple of feet of mono as the braid wont grip the spool like mono.

 

When drift float fishing due to its suppleness braid can tangle horribley.Use a good controller system or "Drifting leader" to prevent this.

 

You dont need special rings,reels or knots.

 

Dont get to carried away with using as thin a braid as possible.Remember this will really affect your abbrassion resistance.

 

However a low diameter braid will gain you distance on your casting.

 

Just because your reel takes 300+m doesnt mean you have to take out a second mortgage.Just use the amount that you will realisticly use and back it out with mono.

 

You can prolong the life of your braid by reversing it when it becomes worn.

 

Be very carefull when pulling for a break etc with braid.The combination of high strength and low diameter can be very dangerous.Never ever wrap it around your hand arm etc.Also a direct pull on to the reel spool will damage the roter shaft.

 

As I keep saying I have found the best rule of thumb for selecting braid size is to choose a braid of similar diameter to that of the size of mono that you would use for the job.

 

I think thats about it DG.

 

[ 03. March 2004, 01:13 AM: Message edited by: BUDGIE ]

[Newt]

If you do any braid fishing, there is a little gadget you can make for yourself for a few cents that solves all sorts of problems.

- Pulling for a break which, as Budgie mentioned, can be difficult with braid if you want to avoid harming yourself or your reel.

- Tightening a knot without cutting your fingers as you will if you wrap the line around a finger and pull.

 

Basically a round, smooth stick like a section of broom handle, an eye hook screwed into one end (put the hook over the eye to pull the knot tight) and a belt hanger at the other end. To pull for a break, simply wrap the line around the stick half a dozen times.

 

[The Diamond Geezer]

quote:

---

Originally posted by BUDGIE:

A lot to cover here DG .........

---

V many thanks, Budgie, for that mega feedback. I've printed it out and will go through it off-line so I can do it justice in my reply

 

 

Catchoo later

 

DG

[The Diamond Geezer]

Originally posted by Budgie {and edited a bit, by DG}

 

I have used braid for 15 or so years now. Initially I started using it for float-fishing from a boat for pike …. purely because it floated without the need for greasing-up.

 

I soon grew to appreciate its lack of stretch as well.

 

The setting of the hooks when piking was far superior.

 

Another thing was that you could pick up the line to the float and feel if the live-bait was still working even at range.

 

The more direct feel was also a great advantage when lure-fishing.

 

In the summer months I started to use it for floater-fishing for carp, its low stretch and floating properties being most useful here too.

 

After two years I had moved on to braid for all of my pike fishing but still stayed with mono for my "bottom" carp fishing and other species.

 

It soon became apparent that the "high abrasion-resistance claims" {of some braids – DG} were dubious to say the least; however I soon came to the conclusion that this was no doubt related to the much finer diameter.

 

I decided to try the same tactic that I had with the "low diameter" nylon hook-lengths {i.e. Double Strength} and that was to select the size of the braid I used by diameter rather than breaking strength. I now use braid for all but light float-fishing and heavy-duty carp-fishing {in snaggy venues.}

 

For ledgering with a quiver tip the bite detection is superb.

 

All the braids I now use are floating braids. I find this causes no problems even when fishing sub-surface.

 

I tried a sinking feeder braid from Fox and found it was cr@p. Haven’t tried any of the other sinking brands but have never really felt the need.

 

 

Cost? Never bothered to work out cost per metre or to see how different brands compare price wise. Always decided which braid suits my need best then found-out where I can get it at the best price. Nine times out of ten the large US outfitters are the best bet.

 

The first braid I ever tried from the US it was Fenwick Iron Thread. I still think that if you shop around especially from the States you can get braid at a cost effective price.

 

{When you} consider that I would change my 15lb Maxima each pike season -- some of my reels have 5-year-old braid on which still hasn’t been reversed.

 

My light boat (pike) multipliers still have some original LEEDA Outcast on: God knows how long that’s been on.

 

 

Different types of braids? I prefer tightly-woven, round profile braids using either Spectra or Kevlar fibres.

 

{I’m} not keen on the "fused" braids.

 

I use braid on both multipliers and fixed spools.

 

I have used many different braids so will only list the ones I would have no hesitation in recommending-

 

Spiderwire - expensive but very good for all species

 

Cabelas Ripcord - Cheaper available in bulk but not quite as tightly braided.

 

Cabelas Ripcord Si - 2nd generation of above, smaller diameter but not as long-lasting.

 

A bulk braid Luke purchases from Balzar (a German firm) for our catting. (can not remember the name, it might not even have one) Cheap as chips, thicker than most modern braids but good on abrasion; I get two seasons guiding out of it if it is reversed.

 

This may surprise a few people: Fox Drift or Troll Master (I can’t remember which one it is but the heavier of the two:30lb?) Got this out of my trade catalogue to try it and have had it on four of my bank piking reels for 5 seasons and it is still OK.

 

Not available any more but {there are} still a few spools knocking around in the shops - LEEDA OutCast. Despite my not liking flat profile braids in general I found this one very good. Well long lasting.

 

Tried-out some of the original Spiderwire Stealth and wasn’t over keen but the newer version is OK and is really just to Spiderwire as Ripcord Si is to Ripcord, a second generation.

 

A couple of observations ref braid:-

 

# Before attaching to spool add a couple of feet of mono as the braid won’t grip the spool like mono.

 

# When drift-float fishing, due to its suppleness, braid can tangle horribly. Use a good controller system or "Drifting leader" to prevent this.

 

# You don’t need special rings, reels or knots.

 

# Don’t get to carried away with using as thin a braid as possible. Remember this will really affect your abrasion-resistance.

 

# However a low diameter braid will gain you distance on your casting.

 

# Just because your reel takes 300+ metres {of line} doesn’t mean you have to take-out a second mortgage -- just use the amount that you will realistically use and back it out with mono.

 

# You can prolong the life of your braid by reversing it when it becomes worn.

 

# Be very careful when pulling for a break etc with braid. The combination of high strength and low diameter can be very dangerous. Never ever wrap it around your hand arm etc. Also a direct pull on to the reel spool will damage the rotor shaft.

 

# As I keep saying I have found the best rule of thumb for selecting braid size is to choose a braid of similar diameter to that of the size of mono that you would use for the job.

 

I think that’s about it

 

=============================

 

Thanks a lot, Budgie, for taking the time and effort to post all that v useful advice.

 

Obviously cost isn’t so much of an issue for you and it might be with some other anglers, but I still think it’s an important factor; but, as you say, you don’t have to fill-up your spools with 300 metres.

 

Interesting that you select your braid on diameter and not Breaking Strength. I’ve heard this said many times, and I guess that, with big baits or lures etc., with a multiplier set-up, taking advantage of its lower diameter isn’t so much of an issue, so you can take advantage of its much higher BS.

 

With say, much smaller baits and lures, and e.g. with a fixed-spool set-up, I guess though that there you can take advantage of the very low diameter of say 15 lb BS braid compared with your 15 lb Maxima mono! … Not forgetting, of course, that a braid of this diameter, as you say, will have much, much less resistance to abrasion, BS for BS, than mono. I guess too, supermarket trollies excepted (no thanks to the Mr C Fox! – ironical that he moved into fishing-tackle after that!!), when you’re lure-fishing, you don’t need much real abrasion-resistance compared with distance-fishing for carp or with dead-baits for pike in gravel-pits and over swan mussels!

 

Thanks too for some very useful pointers to some good (and away from some bad) braids based on your years’ of experience ..much appreciated.

 

I can’t match my reply either in length or content, with your mega-posting ..mainly because I agree with most everything you’ve said and suggested, especially on the safety issue.

 

It’s just a matter of getting hold-of these decent braids without losing an arm and a leg!

 

Cheers muchly

 

 

DG

 

[ 03. March 2004, 10:29 AM: Message edited by: The Diamond Geezer ]