Getting a bit Twitchy :)

[poledark]

Rabs, still struggling to get a sharp pic...I have resorted to using manual and am getting the idea that I will have to manually refocus for every change of distance. I had hoped that simply using the macro setting I would be able to let the camera do the work for me.

 

It's a bit weird really, with the lens zoomed right out to avoid vignetting, and camera set on macro, I can watch the image come into sharp clear focus, but when I take the shot, it is "fuzzy". This happens even when using the IR remote and a tripod.

 

I have tried "backing off" the zoom slightly(to alter the converter/camera lens distance) but it does not help.

 

I have an old 2x converter which I made an adaptor ring for so it fits the Nikon lens, and I get the same problem with that.

 

I expect I want to much for my money, I want to be able to see the hairs on a gnats willy at 50 mtrs, and I don't think I will get that for £83 .00

 

Den

[Guest CJS2]

Rabs, still struggling to get a sharp pic...I have resorted to using manual and am getting the idea that I will have to manually refocus for every change of distance. I had hoped that simply using the macro setting I would be able to let the camera do the work for me.

 

It's a bit weird really, with the lens zoomed right out to avoid vignetting, and camera set on macro, I can watch the image come into sharp clear focus, but when I take the shot, it is "fuzzy". This happens even when using the IR remote and a tripod.

 

I have tried "backing off" the zoom slightly(to alter the converter/camera lens distance) but it does not help.

 

I have an old 2x converter which I made an adaptor ring for so it fits the Nikon lens, and I get the same problem with that.

 

I expect I want to much for my money, I want to be able to see the hairs on a gnats willy at 50 mtrs, and I don't think I will get that for £83 .00

 

Den

 

Poldark, I'm inclined to agree with you, however, I was fidling with my 300mm macro the other day and had a few focus problems, cured by manual focus, mirror lock and a remote shutter release. The blue edge/halos in the image worry me. Someone more clued up will know better than I, but I think I have read in lense reviews thats a bad sign???

 

 

 

Edited January 15, 2006 by CJS2

[ayjay]

The blue edge/halos in the image worry me. Someone more clued up will know better than I, but I think I have read in lense reviews thats a bad sign???

 

It's known as chromatic aberration, the only way to avoid it is by using lenses made from ED glass

[Guest CJS2]

It's known as chromatic aberration, the only way to avoid it is by using lenses made from ED glass

 

There yah go, new someone would have a hadle on it, unfortunatly thats not good news Poldark

 

Question 'Ayjay', I have a selection of Nikon fit lenses, upto 300mm. Any sugestion on my best rout, I realy want to have a go at some of these wild life shots in the summer. Thought tubes might be an option, no glass to upset my pictures, any down sides? I have a Nikon D100 body . . . thats the camera not me, I'm inclined to baraling at the edges

 

The question is open for anyone to answer, thankyou.