Pirk Wires..

[John E Ashford]

Why Stainless Steel or Copper ?

 

Any old wire, that's easy to bend with your hands, will do. It's not as if your going to keep them long. Most of them will end up in a wreck at the bottom of the sea.

 

Keep it Simple Stupid. KISS !

 

No I'm not siging off with a kiss Norrie, just trying to help.

[Norrie]

Summer, Cheers for that, I'm on building sites all day long, and will get some....

 

John, I'm off to the hut this afternoon to try the fence wire that I have....XXXX

 

Chris, The wire is 1mm dia..and the loop is 5 mm....

[Alan Taylor]

Norrie, what I don't like about your moulds is that there is a lot of extra metal at the head end, you will see what I mean in a second or two.

 

As the wire loops are INSIDE the mould it will be very difficult to make an exact fit for the wire. All moulds that I have seen are drilled so that the wire bend is outside the actual mould, this gives a bit of lee way for the final loops.

 

I use wire from a roll for some of my leads, I get it from a hard ware shop, 1.3mm, 50m for a couple of quid. It easy to bend and does not rust, the make that I can get is made by SUKI international, its a kind of fencing wire.

 

I would be tempted to ask Chris P to slightly re build the mould for you, if he agrees he can drill it out for you AND possibly give you a sample of how and where to get the exact size of wire that you will need.

 

Too thin a wire and you will have to either use blue tack to stop the lead running out of the mould and onto the wire giving sharp edges that would have to be cleaned off to protect your line.

A slow process to be sure.

 

I only sugest Chris because I have a great deal of respect for his engineering skills and he enjoys helping people.

 

It may also help you to do a search as this topic has been on here before.

 

There is a way of nearly mass producing the exact length and loop of the wire using a couple of nails (heads cut off) and a block of wood but thats another story

 

 

Cheers for now.

 

Alan

 

[ 30. July 2005, 05:58 PM: Message edited by: Alan Taylor ]

[Norrie]

Alan, I definately know what you mean, and I remember the thread now...about using "putty" wasnt it...anyway, the mould is home made, therefore aint perfect...but does the job. I already have a few pirks made with this mould, and there hasnt been any "flow" into the wire end..that I can see anyway....but, as I said, I will experiment tomorrow with it ...wish me luck....

 

BTW...No joy with car makers in Nottingham...

[Alan Taylor]

Just one other thought, Albert removes some of the inside of the mould at the hook end of the mould

 

There are anoying times when the hook end flicks up and hangs on the main line, you get to feel when this happens after a while but the extra weight created by the extra lead cuts down on this problem by 75% at least.

 

I will go through the papers again and hope I still have it about the car makers, it might have been some other trade but was still a megga investment in a firm in Nottingham.

 

Alan

[Norrie]

Alan, thanks for that...I can see what you are talking about with the extra lead near the hook...I take it it sets it in place ...so to speak ??

[CODMASTER - GRAHAM]

I have been using old wire coat hangers on my pirks for a few years now ...as wires...with no bad results so far.....have got some tig rods from a friend and they are the best.but if you had to pay..god knows....I find the stainless brick ties very hard to bend.

[CODMASTER - GRAHAM]

Looking at the mould pic again...you could drill it out...or try to use some large swivels..just a thought.

[Norrie]

Graham, Welcome to AN...and thanks for your input...I did think about swivels with wire in one end to give it a good seating in the lead....drilling is a good idea too...thanks...