p filter system arrived incl nd +nd grads

[tack4]

well santa was really great was allowed a budget and secured a canon 300D for less than going rate on ebay and used leftover funds for p filter system with adapter rings for my three lenses

got a ND8, ND4, GRAD ND2, GRAD ND4, and a GRAD Sunset

 

so question is what is the best way to go about using them for chippyesque water shots have two lighthouses in mind and itching to get out

 

have tripod and a basic slr knowledge but should i aim to have max apeture and less speed or some where in the middle?

 

should i use bracketing function, what iso etc?

 

all help greately appreiciated and will post results for critique for those that like the technique!

 

cheers

andrew (aka tack4)

[MrWiggly]

As a start I'd go for ..

 

ISO ... 100asa

 

Slowest speed you can get.

 

Tripod essential.

 

Cable release if got.

 

Take a few test shots to get best result.

 

Set bracketing to +2 -2 (3 shots in all)

 

Enjoy !!

Edited December 29, 2006 by MrWiggly

[Chippy]

Sorry Andy

 

I had spotted your PM but hadn't had time for an in depth reply!

 

Right, first off a tripod is essential. As well as keeping the camera steady during long exposures, it'll help you to keep your horizons straight as well as making it easier to swap filters over. Next important thing (ideally) is a spirit level of some sort. I use a small one that slips into the hotshoe. It can be really tricky to get a totally straight horizon without one, although you could use marks on the focussing screen in the viewfinder, but they are rarely in the ideal place. The spirit level is also handy for coloured grads to ensure that they are nice and straight in the frame.

 

Use your slowest ISO. Not only will it reduce noise and increase quality, it'll also help to give you a longer shutter speed.

 

Use a cable release (think you need an electronic release on a 300D - not sure it has a threaded shutter button) - or just use self timer. A proper release will allow you to fire the camera off just as the water etc is in the right place, so is the preferred option.

 

If you doing shots with anything sticking above the horizon - trees, buildings, hills, etc, then leave out the grads as they will effect the exposure of the part that they cover and it'll look odd - dark at the top, light at the bottom. Sometimes you'll get away with a weak grad, such as an ND2, or if the subject sticking above the horizon is small enough in the frame not to be noticeable.

 

The best way to determine the strength of ND grad required to "balance" the exposure of the sky and the ground, is simple and relatively accurate. Firstly, put the camera in AV or TV (Aperture or shutter priority) mode. Lets say you use AV (i do for landscape) and set it too F11. You then point the camera at the sky that will be in the frame, but without any land in the shot. Then remember the shutter speed it recommends (lets say it's 1/125th of a sec). Then point the camera at the ground without the sky in the frame, and take a reading (lets say is says 1/8th sec). You then work out the number of stops difference. In this case it's 4 stops - use the appropriate ND grad which will reduces the top of the frame by 4 stops. You can then start shooting. For important shots, try bracketing with grads (same exposure settings but diff strength grads).

 

When using grads, it's worth using the depth of field preview button if you have one, as you slip the filter in - it'll show you exactly where the grad starts to take effect. If you decide to use two grads - an ND and a coloured - make sure you keep both filters in line with each other where the grad is.

 

Hope that helps

[tack4]

cheers mr wiggly and chippy

 

just ebayed a remote but will try with out using self timer initially till it arrives

 

just the info i was after

 

 

andrew

[Hellbelly]

Great stuff Tack4. I'm looking forward to see what you can do. I'm doing the same thing at the moment so this is a great help. Oh, what sort of wireless remotes are best? Any brands? Or are the cord type better?

 

 

HB.

[MrWiggly]

Hi HB ...

 

Go for the cable(cord) option. A lot of cordless ones will only work from the front of the camera, which seems a bit silly to me !!

Edited January 2, 2007 by MrWiggly

[RobStubbs]

Hi HB ...

 

Go for the cable(cord) option. A lot of cordless ones will only work from the front of the camera, which seems a bit silly to me !!

 

Unless you're doing self take fishing photo's.

 

Rob.