Fibreglass rod blanks

[Julian]

I’m looking to restore a 10ft 2-piece fibreglass leger rod passed down to me from my late father. I think I’ve learnt enough to have a go at whipping the eyes, etc, but I’m after a few tips about restoring the actual blank.

 

I’ve read that fibreglass blanks don’t really need varnishing as they are waterproof anyway, but the rod looks to have been varnished in the past – probably when it was made judging by the poor state it’s in! I’d like to restore it ‘as was’ and so need advice on how to get the old varnish off, and put a new one on.

 

I’ve read that glass from a broken beer bottle, or the back of a razor blade in the best thing to scrape it off with but would like to be sure before attacking the rod!

 

I’ve read that a lot of people finished fibreglass blanks with wax as apposed to varnish – might this be a better way forward once the old varnish is off?

 

I’m a complete novice when it comes to materials, methods and techniques so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Cheers...

 

Julian

[grumpybum]

I use a " Stanley knife blade" held at 90 deg to the blank to scrape of the varnish. Then finish off with at least 2 grades of wet and dry using plenty of water.

 

The handle can be scrubbed with a nail brush and if you can find any VIM or AJAX powder. Failing that use Jif.

 

Your correct in saying fibre glass doesnt need varnishing, but it always was. Probably to get the shine to attract anglers.

 

The ring whippings do need to be sealed and varnished. Always whipping up the foot of the ring fro m the blank to the eye. To make this easier I always grind the end of the foot to get a better slope so the whipping flows easily up the foot.

 

Good luck with the project and remember to take your time as any gaps will be magnified when the whippings are varnished.

[chesters1]

a back of a knife will remove most old varnish ,and use proper whipping thread not sewing thread otherwise you will get furry whippings.

put the varnish on with your finger ,no brushmarks and a far thinner layer than with a brush ,the only bit your finger cant reach is under the ring where the brush has a use.

3 or 4 coats is all it needs and using your finger its surprisingly fast as it dries very quick.

very gently "cut" round the lable (just deep enough to allow the varnish surrounding it to be removed) dont try to remove the varnish off the lable or the lable itself .

make sure the eyes line up correctly if it has a screw reel mount ,holding one leg with sellotape to the blank while you whip the other helps

 

 

no not your leg the rings one

Edited June 21, 2007 by chesters1

[Julian]

Thanks for the tips guys.

 

What sort of varnish should I use?

 

Can I use the same varnish for the guides or should I use an epoxy resin?

 

Cheers…

 

Julian

[Newt]

Julian - have a read.

 

http://shop.mudhole.com/Rod-Building-101

[Julian]

Thanks for the link Newt,

 

Though I have to confess I’ve already found that site and watched most of the tutorials! Only problem is, most info refers to new carbon type rods that don’t require a varnish or old cane – can’t find any info on varnishing a fibreglass rod – unless I’m looking in the wrong place!

 

Cheers…

 

J

[Newt]

Hmmm - sorry, I was sure there was an article but meybe not.

 

I have a couple of good rod building books at home and I'll take a look at what they say. Should be able to post more tomorrow.

[grumpybum]

Whippings need either a cellulose based sealer and varnish. Or an epoxy finish. A normal type of varnish will discolour whippings. If an epoxy is used the rod has to be rotated till its dry or it will run.

 

A good quality polyurethane varnish for the blank.