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pellet waggler


mooserx

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hi all,

in one of my local club lakes there are a lot of carp around 4-12lbs i have caught them on pole, floaters and natural baits i.e worms amd maggies. i recentley tried the pellet waggler but all i got is liners and foul hookers resulting in lost fish. i tried altering depths from dead depth (around 5 feet) to fishing in the top 18 inches and everything in between but again plenty of liners but no "proper bites" . i was using hard pellets on a band. i know this is a winning method but could do some advice to fine tune it. any replies greatfully read.

mooserx

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Hi mooserx and welcome to AnglersNet.

 

If you have a digital camera, a couple of photos of your rig would be a big help.

 

You can't use the onboard photo feature until after your 15th post but you can put a photobucket link in your post. Just use the option that has the style tags on it. Bottom of the three links they offer I think.

" My choices in life were either to be a piano player in a whore house or a politician. And to tell the truth, there's hardly any difference!" - Harry Truman, 33rd US President

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Hi M,

sounds to me like you were fishing too deep.

I set up my pellet wags like this:

Slide the waggler onto the line, mounted on a silicone float adaptor. Double over the last 12" of line and tie with a figure eight knot to make a 6" loop. Tie a smaller loop at the end of the 6" loop, the hooklength will be attached to this.

The locking shot for the waggler go onto the double up line (the 6" loop), preferably 1SSG below the float (closer to the hooklength) and 1 or 2 SSG above the float. These act as a brake when the float hits the water and by having a slightly heavier weight behind the float, it helps to lessen tangles.

Hooklength is 6" of 0.20, I use Sensas Feeling, which is pretty accurate in diameter and has a breaking strain of around 8lb. Mainline is 5lb Maxima, but due to the stretch in the Maxima and the lack of stretch in the Feeling, the hooklength will break before the mainline in the event of a fish finding a snag or an over exuberant strike!

With the float rig set up like this, you can fish anywhere from 12" to 18" deep by sliding the float and locking shot up and down the loop.

 

All of this assumes you use unloaded floats, which are about 6" long. I cut down some of my floats, to give me floats of 4", allowing me to fish even shallower. Personally, I think polystyrene floats are far superior to balsa ones. They pop up a lot quicker. I have a few of the original ones made by Topper Haskins, but he no longer makes them, as he has retired. Dave Brittain is making some now, but like many small-time float makers, he can't keep up with demand!

 

Try not to feed too much. Half a dozen (count them) 8mm pellets every cast is plenty to pull the fish. Once they arrive, cut back to three or four pellets to make the fish compete. I feel 1 pint of pellets per hour is usual, but always carry double that in case I have to feed more to pull the fish.

If the fish get iffy, you can try feeding a dozen pellets, three times in quick succession (burst feeding), then cast three or four times without feeding.

 

I try to get into a rhythm of; feed, cast, feed, pull the float back a foot, reel in and repeat. The whole process should take about one minute. It is hard work to fish the method well.

My catapult is over my left knee, with the pouch hanging down and open. After casting, or while playing a fish, I can pick up a few pellets and drop them into the pouch without looking, using my left hand. I hold the rod in the right, if you are left handed, just reverse the instructions.

While playing fish, I feed at least twice, to keep the fish in the swim interested and get the next one lined up. With the reel's anti-reverse on and the clutch set, I can hold the rod down low to the water and use the left hand to swing the catapult up until I can grab the tag of the cup with the fingers of my right hand. Pushing the frame away from me, with my left hand, I am always in control of the rod, but can still feed while playing the fish. It is a vital part of the method and will take some practise.

 

My rod is a Maver Reactorlite Number One; one of the softest match rods on the market. It helps to stop hook pulls, especially close to the net. I have landed carp to 15lbs on it, and usually pretty quickly, although the important thing is to get them into the net. Sometimes carp take 10-15 minutes to land, despite what you might read in magazines. Make sure they end up in the net.

 

Hope that helps, although it can be difficult to follow without pictures. Might be a good idea to watch one of the better anglers near to you. And remember that some fisheries can fish quite differently.

As an example, Stafford Moor fishes better if you feed quite sparingly, in fact pretty much as I've described above, while Viaduct often needs the feed to be blasted in heavier.

 

Good luck

The Mahseer Trust, working for one of the world's iconic fish and the rivers they live in

www.mahseertrust.org


Fishery info for the Westcountry:
www.coarsefish-torbay.co.uk

Want to learn from Will Raison and Neil Machin?
check out
www.v2vangling.co.uk

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Hi M,

sounds to me like you were fishing too deep.

I set up my pellet wags like this:

Slide the waggler onto the line, mounted on a silicone float adaptor. Double over the last 12" of line and tie with a figure eight knot to make a 6" loop. Tie a smaller loop at the end of the 6" loop, the hooklength will be attached to this.

The locking shot for the waggler go onto the double up line (the 6" loop), preferably 1SSG below the float (closer to the hooklength) and 1 or 2 SSG above the float. These act as a brake when the float hits the water and by having a slightly heavier weight behind the float, it helps to lessen tangles.

Hooklength is 6" of 0.20, I use Sensas Feeling, which is pretty accurate in diameter and has a breaking strain of around 8lb. Mainline is 5lb Maxima, but due to the stretch in the Maxima and the lack of stretch in the Feeling, the hooklength will break before the mainline in the event of a fish finding a snag or an over exuberant strike!

With the float rig set up like this, you can fish anywhere from 12" to 18" deep by sliding the float and locking shot up and down the loop.

 

All of this assumes you use unloaded floats, which are about 6" long. I cut down some of my floats, to give me floats of 4", allowing me to fish even shallower. Personally, I think polystyrene floats are far superior to balsa ones. They pop up a lot quicker. I have a few of the original ones made by Topper Haskins, but he no longer makes them, as he has retired. Dave Brittain is making some now, but like many small-time float makers, he can't keep up with demand!

 

Try not to feed too much. Half a dozen (count them) 8mm pellets every cast is plenty to pull the fish. Once they arrive, cut back to three or four pellets to make the fish compete. I feel 1 pint of pellets per hour is usual, but always carry double that in case I have to feed more to pull the fish.

If the fish get iffy, you can try feeding a dozen pellets, three times in quick succession (burst feeding), then cast three or four times without feeding.

 

I try to get into a rhythm of; feed, cast, feed, pull the float back a foot, reel in and repeat. The whole process should take about one minute. It is hard work to fish the method well.

My catapult is over my left knee, with the pouch hanging down and open. After casting, or while playing a fish, I can pick up a few pellets and drop them into the pouch without looking, using my left hand. I hold the rod in the right, if you are left handed, just reverse the instructions.

While playing fish, I feed at least twice, to keep the fish in the swim interested and get the next one lined up. With the reel's anti-reverse on and the clutch set, I can hold the rod down low to the water and use the left hand to swing the catapult up until I can grab the tag of the cup with the fingers of my right hand. Pushing the frame away from me, with my left hand, I am always in control of the rod, but can still feed while playing the fish. It is a vital part of the method and will take some practise.

 

My rod is a Maver Reactorlite Number One; one of the softest match rods on the market. It helps to stop hook pulls, especially close to the net. I have landed carp to 15lbs on it, and usually pretty quickly, although the important thing is to get them into the net. Sometimes carp take 10-15 minutes to land, despite what you might read in magazines. Make sure they end up in the net.

 

Hope that helps, although it can be difficult to follow without pictures. Might be a good idea to watch one of the better anglers near to you. And remember that some fisheries can fish quite differently.

As an example, Stafford Moor fishes better if you feed quite sparingly, in fact pretty much as I've described above, while Viaduct often needs the feed to be blasted in heavier.

 

Good luck

 

thanks for the advice tried the suggessted method yesterday and won my club match with nearly 130lb of carp and even a couple of tench, took em a while to get fizzing but once they started i couldn't miss, thanks again. :clap2:

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Well there's a result for advice from a forum then! :clap2::clap2::clap2:

The Mahseer Trust, working for one of the world's iconic fish and the rivers they live in

www.mahseertrust.org


Fishery info for the Westcountry:
www.coarsefish-torbay.co.uk

Want to learn from Will Raison and Neil Machin?
check out
www.v2vangling.co.uk

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