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Ultimate bobbin


Kappa

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Bloody hell Richard, the next thing you will be wanting is a robot fisherman :D

On the subject of re-inventing the wheel, would that be a square one or a round one.

Whilst there have been numerous designs over the years, there is always room for improvement which in the main is only limited by the availability of suitable materials and the equipment to make what you want to a given design. The one thing I do not understand is why a bobbin instead of a swinger

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Bloody hell Richard, the next thing you will be wanting is a robot fisherman biggrin.gif

On the subject of re-inventing the wheel, would that be a square one or a round one.

Whilst there have been numerous designs over the years, there is always room for improvement which in the main is only limited by the availability of suitable materials and the equipment to make what you want to a given design. The one thing I do not understand is why a bobbin instead of a swingerThe one thing I do not understand is why a bobbin instead of a swinger

 

I guess last season I knew exactly what I wanted but I couldn't find anything suitable so I had to make them myself. Once you go to the trouble of making your own equipment you may aswell go to the extra effort of making sure it has every last feature you want, hence the topic title.

 

Last season I invented the rectangular wheel, this season I am mostly inventing the semicircular wheel.

 

There are a few (and not all that good) reasons why not swingers: they would be annoying to wire up, I'm not convinced I could make a good enough hinge that would be stable enough for the length whilst still being smooth. Finally I'm clumsy, I ran head first into a bankstick last season and broke it in two, I just know I would break long swingers in minutes, part of the beauty of the chain design is it can be fixed on the bank without any tools or fuss!

 

Of course its a really personal thing, I love my bobbins but most people wouldn't and to be honest I just don't like swingers much!

 

Rich

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The ultimate bobbin 'chain' is of course linked at molecular level...think ribbon cable but instead a strip of plasticard of suitable thickness.

Geoff

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The ultimate bobbin 'chain' is of course linked at molecular level...think ribbon cable but instead a strip of plasticard of suitable thickness.

 

Hi Angly

 

I think I know what you mean, sections of plastic hinged with a ribborn or flexible plastic? If so that is essentially how much chain works. Maybe I got it wrong?

 

 

Rich

Edited by Richard Capper
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Wow thanks Phil, lucky you were here to help, is there anything you don't know?

 

Now all I need to do is make it...

 

Rich

 

Lots I'm learning all the time ;)

But when you've done as many conversions of old original Optonics (the ones that had a sounder box separate from heads circa 1973) to all in the head versions as I've done, you aquire skills you never thought you would :clap2:

Something else you might need to think about is battery life, as you could be adding more drain power on in it by connecting another LED to the circuit.

Are the Microns the ones that run on small cell batteries?

See I don't know that, as I don't use Fox..... Delkim man through and through!

 

If they are, you may well need to have quite a few spares with you. And/or do some testing to find out how much extra drain you'll put on them.

 

There is a calculation that you can do based on the voltage the extra LEDs use, but my knowledge in this field is limited, so I can't help there. Yep don't know that! :mellow: I've always used the suck it and see phylosaphy.

 

The alternative to the above is put them on their own power source, but still connected to Microns LED circuit. I have done this, but age and time has taken its tole and I can't remember how it's done.

I did know that, but don't any longer :D

 

Enjoy your project but think waterproofing at every stage

phil h.

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Adding the second LED in parallel with the existing one will diminish battery life, but only slightly, as the LEDs are on for only a very small time during the units actual use.

 

You can connect directly in parallel (cathode to cathode, anode to anode), but you will probably find that one LED leeches most of the current due to having a smaller forward voltage than the other. At worst case, one LED will cease to function altogether. The best case scenario is that both LEDs work at the same brightness, but the brightness of each will be half that of the original single LED due to the current now being shared.

 

Since you want a separate brightness-controlled LED acting as a night light (which will require a separate, larger power source due to being on for long durations), it makes more sense to power the bite indicator LED from this same power source. You still can take the cathode or anode signal (whichever is the active signal) from the bite detector to switch the second LED on for 30 seconds... The electronics involved is rather simple - once you know all the physical details of where and how you want the LEDs mounted, what casing you will be using for them, what battery pack you want to use etc etc, I'll be more than happy to design and build the electronics for you, and send them to you free of charge.

 

Of course, if your creation proves highly desirable by others, I could supply more modules for whatever it costs to make them...

 

Coming back to the overall design, I've been thinking of your requirements - all of them are quite easily achievable, except the 5 foot, non-wind affected drop. I've though of a way of achieving this, without the rod being 5 foot off the ground, but I need to know more about how the line should be released if you want to strike. You could at worst case end up with having to take up 10 feet of slack before striking, which I gather will be a problem!

 

Arf

As I bit into the nectarine, it had a crisp juiciness about it that was very pleasurable - until I realized it wasn't a nectarine at all, but A HUMAN HEAD!

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Adding the second LED in parallel with the existing one will diminish battery life, but only slightly, as the LEDs are on for only a very small time during the units actual use.

 

You can connect directly in parallel (cathode to cathode, anode to anode), but you will probably find that one LED leeches most of the current due to having a smaller forward voltage than the other. At worst case, one LED will cease to function altogether. The best case scenario is that both LEDs work at the same brightness, but the brightness of each will be half that of the original single LED due to the current now being shared.

 

Since you want a separate brightness-controlled LED acting as a night light (which will require a separate, larger power source due to being on for long durations), it makes more sense to power the bite indicator LED from this same power source. You still can take the cathode or anode signal (whichever is the active signal) from the bite detector to switch the second LED on for 30 seconds... The electronics involved is rather simple - once you know all the physical details of where and how you want the LEDs mounted, what casing you will be using for them, what battery pack you want to use etc etc, I'll be more than happy to design and build the electronics for you, and send them to you free of charge.

 

Of course, if your creation proves highly desirable by others, I could supply more modules for whatever it costs to make them...

 

Coming back to the overall design, I've been thinking of your requirements - all of them are quite easily achievable, except the 5 foot, non-wind affected drop. I've though of a way of achieving this, without the rod being 5 foot off the ground, but I need to know more about how the line should be released if you want to strike. You could at worst case end up with having to take up 10 feet of slack before striking, which I gather will be a problem!

 

Arf

Arf just the man!.............only joking

 

Thanks for technical help there. I've not messed about with, and messed is the operative word here. with electronics systems for bite indicators for many years. When I did and I got stuck, I'd deffer the problem to mate who was and still is an electronics engineer. Can I take it that you are also a electronics engineer?

phil h.

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Adding the second LED in parallel with the existing one will diminish battery life, but only slightly, as the LEDs are on for only a very small time during the units actual use.

 

You can connect directly in parallel (cathode to cathode, anode to anode), but you will probably find that one LED leeches most of the current due to having a smaller forward voltage than the other. At worst case, one LED will cease to function altogether. The best case scenario is that both LEDs work at the same brightness, but the brightness of each will be half that of the original single LED due to the current now being shared.

 

Since you want a separate brightness-controlled LED acting as a night light (which will require a separate, larger power source due to being on for long durations), it makes more sense to power the bite indicator LED from this same power source. You still can take the cathode or anode signal (whichever is the active signal) from the bite detector to switch the second LED on for 30 seconds... The electronics involved is rather simple - once you know all the physical details of where and how you want the LEDs mounted, what casing you will be using for them, what battery pack you want to use etc etc, I'll be more than happy to design and build the electronics for you, and send them to you free of charge.

 

Of course, if your creation proves highly desirable by others, I could supply more modules for whatever it costs to make them...

 

Coming back to the overall design, I've been thinking of your requirements - all of them are quite easily achievable, except the 5 foot, non-wind affected drop. I've though of a way of achieving this, without the rod being 5 foot off the ground, but I need to know more about how the line should be released if you want to strike. You could at worst case end up with having to take up 10 feet of slack before striking, which I gather will be a problem!

 

Arf

 

Oops what have I done? I've been being very naughty and sarcastic for sometime!

 

I made 3 of the boxes up a year ago. Simply, I use the extension box socket on the micron m, this plugs into my box of tricks via a jack plug lead. The box then detects the signal which is ordinarily sent to a extension box and activates the LED for 30 seconds. The box also resends a further signal off to the extension box if required. The box of tricks has its own power supply so it does not drain the alarm's battery. It also powers the LED that illuminates the bobbin over night. The LED in the bobbin is actually a 3 colour LED and thus one LED can have different colours and brightnesses (though both are adjustable), mine is low level blue all the time and bright red when the alarm is sounded. I prefer this method as it does not involve fiddling with the internal electronics of the alarm, plus I believe it is not a good idea to connect LEDs in parallel.

 

As for the cord/chains again I have already made these last year but am now making an newer more robust version. When I say 5 foot my chains are 30 inches so if the are attached half way up the bankstick it gives a 60 inch drop but the bobbin will drop off once lifted over 5 foot.

 

Rich

 

Teach not thy parent’s mother to extract

The embryo juices of the bird by suction.

The good old lady can that feat enact,

Quite irrespective of your kind instruction.

Edited by Richard Capper
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Hi Richard,

 

Thanks for the touching poem, glad to hear you have it under control. I just thought I'd offer advice as I was unaware of this fact.

 

Phil -> yes, I design medical instruments for a living.

 

Did you make the 5 foot bank stick too? Do you find it convenient to fish with a rod set so high off the ground?

As I bit into the nectarine, it had a crisp juiciness about it that was very pleasurable - until I realized it wasn't a nectarine at all, but A HUMAN HEAD!

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