Ultimate bobbin

[Dick Dastardly]

Agreed its definately important for the bobbin to stay on so it can "pull the line tight again" to show a liner.Its also just as important for it to release/have released when you strike.Getting the balance/right combination is going to be important here.This is why Pauls version which stops is good.

 

I was going to ask earlier if your bobbin would be of any use in this situation Den! Like I said I want the bobbin to be able to rise so the arm is at 90degrees and stay on but come free after that ie when I lift the rod to strike.It will be set up so that any liner will start dropping back before this point is reached, similar principle to how you should setup your bobbin drop to allow for this.

Edited January 26, 2010 by BUDGIE

[Dick Dastardly]

Mind you it might just prove that the correct tension on the clip and a slight forward movement of the rod before striking will sufice to release cleanly.I say forward as your then pulling against the bank stick the arms fixed to rather that just lifting the arm higher as you would with an up right movement.As I said earlier a lot of these complicated "problems" might vwery well not actualkly exist it practice! Just waiting on my bobbin/head material to come but will have a dig around tommorow to find a temporary alternative so I can make up the first complete mock up. Im sure untill then it will be to easy to over theorise.

[poledark]

Budgie, the Springloks ONLY come off when the pin is pulled by you lifting the rod and tightening the chain.

 

I have converted a set of mine as swingers solves all the problems of wind etc

 

Den

[Dick Dastardly]

Yes I remember you showing me your first models you made at the first Wingham fish in I went to Den. Cant work out if they would be easier to release the line from (by the moving the rod forward I mentioned earlier) than a conventional clip? I seem to remember you showing me that the tension required to release could be changed/built different?

 

Realistically the clip/release system/spring etc only needs to be adjusted/strong enough to support the weight of the arm/bobbin so not to much extra pressure would be needed to release.

Edited January 26, 2010 by BUDGIE

[Anderoo]

I'm still not convinced that these problems actually exist! If you have a swinger consisting of a bankstick clip > hinge > arm (approx 24") > hinge > bobbin head > adjustable line clip and you clip it halfway up the front bankstick, when the line is pulled forward the bobbin head/arm should move up and slightly forwards (with the head staying vertical), and when you strike you're pulling away from the swinger (which is up as far as it can go with the bobbin head just under the rod) so the line will release easily.

 

I think these problems of arcs and the line not releasing, etc. only exist if you clip a long arm swinger to the back bankstick, and/or clip it too far up the backstick.

 

It's annoying that I'm now waiting for the bits to arrive, I really want to test all this out!

[Anderoo]

Forgive the crappy MS Paint pictures, but this is why I'm having trouble understanding the potential issues of the line not releasing when you want to strike, and having to contend with a swinger that hasn't reached its full upwards motion when you want to strike:

 

 

1. Rod is in the rests and the swinger (hinges at bankstick and bobbin ends) is at rest, pointing slightly downwards. The adjustable line clip is set so that the line won't come out unless pulled out, but with minimum pressure. The swinger is attached solidly (either clip or clamp) to the front bankstick.

 

2. You get a bite and the line is pulled through the rod rings and the swinger is pulled upwards and as it goes higher towards the rod, slightly forwards as it follows the arc - i.e. the pull of the line and the slight direction change in the bobbin head are the same direction.

 

3. The swinger has reached its upward limit and is just being held there by line pressure, as line is taken off the baitrunner. (If it's a liner, it would now drop back to where it was.) Line is just being pulled through the line clip straight off the reel, and the bobbin head can't go any higher.

 

4. You get to the rod, engage the baitrunner and strike upwards. The line must now pull out of the clip as you're pulling against the swinger - exactly as if it was a tethered bobbin on a cord.

 

I think the problems outlined so far are caused by attaching the swingers to the rear bankstick, like pike drop-offs.

 

I should have my bits at the weekend, I really hope so because it's driving me a bit crazy

Edited January 29, 2010 by Anderoo

[tincatinca]

Anderoo, there is generally nothing wrong with your diagrams. The problems that come up are relative to the length of the swinger arm required that gives you the amount of drop that you want.(by this I mean the distance from the top of the bobbin at its bottom position to the rod) .For example, the longer the drop/ movement of the line required then longer the swinger arm has to be and when you lengthen the arm, this is where rigidity starts to become an issue and also where the end of the swinger arm would finish if it was allowed to continue its upward movement. In the case of the swingers that I have made, the length from the end of the arm to the pivot is 31 inches the reasons for this being is that they can be fitted either on the front or rear rest and also because of the length of arm develop less lateral movement of the swinger as it is travelling through its arc of movement. Because of the length and the arc of movement, I have had incorporate a method to stop the arm from swinging which has been achieved by incorporating an adjustment screw either side of the pivot. This gives the ability to set the free movement of the arm to any position between those as shown in your sketches 1 and 4. With shorter arms it does not matter so much as what you have detailed is virtually spot on and if you can get away with shorter arms then you could be okay

[tincatinca]

The attached diagram may help explain things better. Obviously one could change positions on all the arms to give a greater range of movement but in doing this the lateral movement of the bobbin would increase as you made the drop length longer due to the movement of the arm within its arc. With the longer arms you have more versatility and the ability to mount to front or rear banksticks but do need to control movement and also rigidity. As the ones I have made have the ability to be interchangeable I might just make up some short arms as well for Carp and Tench fishing

 

 

Edited January 29, 2010 by tincatinca

[Anderoo]

I'm prepared for a certain amount of lateral movement - as long as it's less than madly swinging bobbins it'll be fine by me

 

I can see that your diagram is correct, but it is possible for the swinger head to be set lower in the first place and to raise higher than you've shown (granted, possible issues with lateral movement etc.). Quick experiments with rulers suggest that if I have arms 24" long, they should provide a maximum real world up-down movement of approx 36". This is of course by travelling in an arc rather than straight up like a bobbin would, and taking into account that it will neither start nor finish vertical but at an angle.

 

I don't think I ever have a drop longer than 36" on my bobbins, so this seems like a good first length to try in a real world test and make sure the hinges work properly and the line can travel through the clip freely. A 24" arm ought to be rigid enough for what I want, it's not that long. I'm not going to worry about sliding weights on the arm - if I want/need extra weight to counter undertow I will screw it directly under the swinger head like a bobbin.

[Anderoo]

Ooh, I just had a cunning idea about how to firmly attach the swinger to the bankstick! It should mean I can use the readily available metal terry clips (although ideally the plastic coated ones Budgiel inked to earlier on), but instead of using one I can use two, one above the other, screwed onto the plastic bit that originally sits under the alarm:

 

 

(Another excellent technical drawing!)

 

If I make sure the hinge is not touching the bankstick I reckon this will be a very solid way to hold it in place.