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Drennan Acolyte Plus vs Tench float MkIV


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Yeah, I remember seeing that somewhere but I have five acolyte float rods and none of them have fuji stamped guides. I'm pretty sure the guides are just generic guides. I have noticed when playing barbel hard on the acolyte rods the guides chew / kink up my line where as when playing barbel hard with (for example) my normark avenger or drennan im8 specimen float rod that have fuji guides fitted the line isn't damaged.

I do like the acolyte rods and would recommend them but I wish drennan had used fuji guides.

Edited by Tigger
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I also have a 13ft MKIV Drennan Tench Float rod which I use for trotting for Barbel and chub as well as for Tench; and it's rated for line and braid up to 7lb. The Drennan Acolyte Plus is designed fo

I have mentioned this issue with the line on a couple of other topics but have always had the reply that others do not experience this. The worst rod for this, that I have is the Grey's prodigy float.

It does not seem to matter what rings are on my rod if I play a fish hard or going for it casting the line will kink and look like a curly pig tail normally in the top two sections It does not seem to weaken the line but causes line wrap. Tried quite a few lines none make any difference the only thing that stopped it was using braid but even the new 8 braids still do not cast as well as mono think this more a centre pin thing than a rod ring problem

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It does not seem to matter what rings are on my rod if I play a fish hard or going for it casting the line will kink and look like a curly pig tail normally in the top two sections It does not seem to weaken the line but causes line wrap. Tried quite a few lines none make any difference the only thing that stopped it was using braid but even the new 8 braids still do not cast as well as mono think this more a centre pin thing than a rod ring problem

I've noticed the same thing on a few of my regular rods, although the only consistency has been the lines used. I'm not sure these modern low diameter lines stand up to much. I've often thought about going back to Maxima or something similar.

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I have mentioned this issue with the line on a couple of other topics but have always had the reply that others do not experience this. The worst rod for this, that I have is the Grey's prodigy float. What I have put it down to is that the insert for the top guide is too small or the metal frame around it too large. Consequently, when holding the rig, the way I do when casting with a centrepin, i.e. just above the drop shot, you are folding the line back over the metal frame which damages the line and same seems to happen when playing a fish under the rod tip. You can actually hear and feel the difference to the line once it gets worn.

 

I have further proven this by pulling the line back and forth over the tip guide which makes it curl up, I have then switched the same line over to another rod and the problem goes. The Seymo guides seem to suffer from this but the Fuji don't.

 

It does effect low diameter lines the most, Drennan float fish is ok, Bayer Perlon not so.

 

Using the line floatation grease that you apply with a small sponge seems to help. I think it might be made by Mucilin.

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That makes a lot of sense actually. I often hold the hook/hooklink in my left handand and give it a pull to straighten everything out and make sure the lines not wrapped or tangled. I wonder if the line is touching the tip ring s frame and getting a friction burn due to the acute angle.

 

Edit: Note to self. Stop doing that.

Edited by Phil Adams
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I don't get any damage casting, unless banging it out hard across the river for several hours. My problem comes when (only in a couple of swims) when striking into a barbel I have to continue my strike and sweep my rod back as far as possible, then hold it there where upon the fish trys it's hardest to get to the safety of a snag which must be only an inch or so away in some cases due to the line stretch and bend in the rod. Bare in mind I can't wind in at all at this point as my arm is pulled back so the rod is facing behind me and the fish is driving hard for the snag and we all know you don't wind against a running fish. I then have to hold on and rely on the stretch of the line and the bend of the rod to subdue the fish enough so as to allow me to reach back and wind in a little line at a time and if the fish deviates away from the snag at all I take advantage and wind like a mad man to get the fish further away from the snag which then allows me to let it run a little and then wind back until the fish is pooped out. Playing these powerfull fish in such a manner with my acolyte rods seems to fray the line. I have some Hardy Marksman specialist rods that do have "fuji guides" and the same thing happens with them!

It's a bit of a wierd one really as my normark and older drennan rods which have "fuji guides" don't seem to have the line damage problem at all. My later made (after the marksman specialist rods) Hardy supero rods don't seem to damage the line in this way and they have "fuji guides".

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Do you know if the model or design of Fuji differs on the rods?

 

 

Phil, here's a short video with Dave Coster and he mentions the names of the different guides on the two marksman rods....

 

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If you set your rod up and pull it over the tip you will see where it rubs. Tiger have you checked your Marksman for any burrs, mine does it slightly but nowhere near as bad as the Grey's.

 

This guide seems best.

 

http://www.guidesnblanks.com/product/587

 

This one not so good

 

http://www.guidesnblanks.com/product/588

 

Something will check with any future rod.

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All,

 

Guides and grooving is almost as old a topic as custom/quality rod building itself. I know technology has left me FAR behind.

 

I just want to recommend the "Mud Hole" for customer service if needed.

 

Phone

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