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Drennan Acolyte Plus vs Tench float MkIV


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Great Video clip Tigger, shame the Hardy team feel they have to change the guides to use the rods they took part in designing. I thought my Hardy Marksman had Fuji guides as they are identical, other than frame colour, to the ones I brought to re-guide another rod. Mine is one of the first batch made though.

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I also have a 13ft MKIV Drennan Tench Float rod which I use for trotting for Barbel and chub as well as for Tench; and it's rated for line and braid up to 7lb. The Drennan Acolyte Plus is designed fo

I have mentioned this issue with the line on a couple of other topics but have always had the reply that others do not experience this. The worst rod for this, that I have is the Grey's prodigy float.

Great Video clip Tigger, shame the Hardy team feel they have to change the guides to use the rods they took part in designing. I thought my Hardy Marksman had Fuji guides as they are identical, other than frame colour, to the ones I brought to re-guide another rod. Mine is one of the first batch made though.

 

 

BB, if your marksman rod is one of the original marksman rods (the specialists) which preceded the superos it does have excellent fuji guides, they're all stamped fuji on the legs but you may need a magnifying glass to see these little inscriptions as they are small. I think the guides on the specialists are better than the supero's as they feel stronger, only problem being they just seem to chew/scuff the line a little in the circumstances I described.

 

Just checked for burrs and I can't find any. Can't find any on my acolytes either bb. In the video clip Coster mentions the friction/line damage is because the specialist marksman guides (fuji SIC's) are hard, what that means I don't know.

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Think the main problem stems from pre loading the rod before casting, the line is pulled at extreme angle over the tip ring to set the reel in motion this must cause a lot of friction only solution Ican see would be a completely different top ring guide something on the lines of a Tulip top ring which can be found on Seafishing inline rods. All my centre pin reels have solid spools so I just load more line than the usual 30 yards for trotting and cut out the last 5yards after every session .

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Think the main problem stems from pre loading the rod before casting, the line is pulled at extreme angle over the tip ring to set the reel in motion this must cause a lot of friction only solution Ican see would be a completely different top ring guide something on the lines of a Tulip top ring which can be found on Seafishing inline rods. All my centre pin reels have solid spools so I just load more line than the usual 30 yards for trotting and cut out the last 5yards after every session .

 

 

I don't pre load my rod when casting jerry so casting doesn't cause a problem with damage line. The only time it may have an effect on my line is when i'm really wacking a 6 gram (or heavier) float out to the other side of the river and even then it would only show slight damage over several hours of this.

The problem for me is when playing tug of war with a fish of around five pounds to just into double figures and giving them no line. Even when the line comes off the tip with the rod held at a lesser angle the line still gets grazed. This damage may actually occur after the initial hit and hold is over and the line being wound back and then being given out begins (as you'll know you gain line and then have to let them run a number of times), so the line is being pulled back and forth like violinists bow....if you get my meaning which will be causing friction and heat.

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Tigger, I agree that playing a fish causes this problem but, at least for my casting style, most damage is caused by the cast. I can, sometimes, have to remove a rod lengths of line 3 times during a session and can visually see it is the section at the rod tip when holding the rig, ready to cast, that is the worst part damaged.

 

Also, still does it when I've blanked!!

 

The Grey's does seem to damage the whole distance I have trotted for that session, I really need to get them guides changed. However, it is as new so thinking of selling instead.

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Tigger, I agree that playing a fish causes this problem but, at least for my casting style, most damage is caused by the cast. I can, sometimes, have to remove a rod lengths of line 3 times during a session and can visually see it is the section at the rod tip when holding the rig, ready to cast, that is the worst part damaged.

 

Also, still does it when I've blanked!!

 

The Grey's does seem to damage the whole distance I have trotted for that session, I really need to get them guides changed. However, it is as new so thinking of selling instead.

 

 

Mmm, not good is it. I use daiwa sensor and strip off the line at the end of the session and replace it with new just before I go on my next session. Sensor is only about seven or eight quid on ebay for a bulk spool delivered to your door and I bet there's of a mile or more on a spool in 6lb and even more in 4lb. I've done this for many ears now and find it much better to use freshly spooled line each session. It might cost about 10p in line per session so still works out much cheaper than buying fancy line and having to leave it on the reel because of it's price.

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Much the same for me I back my reels with 75yards of low diameter braid and about 40yards of mono get two or three sessions out of this because I cut the last 5 yards of mono each time. Know the modified Albright knot will happily go through the rings if needed but know the line damage is caused by casting as yet to have give line to any Coarse fish I have managed to hook. Also tried spraying my line with Silicon lubricant ( srew fix ) which did not make any difference apart from making the line float nicely, I prefer the Diawa ST mono the come in large spools. Summer time can find me casting 10 gram controllers I love surface fishing .

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Not to hijack the post - but I've been looking at the acolyte plus 15ft - would this rod be suitable for a lake where 8lb+ tench are a real possibility ? I'm looking for a longer rod than my Drennan series 7 tench as some of the swims are very deep close in, and I'm having difficulty casting 10ft deep float rigs on a 13ft rod ;)

 

Mat

Mat

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