Line colours

[BoldBear]

Apart from hooklengths for large inquisitive Carp and for mainline on my beach-casters on the coast; the only other time that I use Braid is when I’m drop shotting for Perch and then I’ll use it as a main line to allow me to feel and control the small movements of the dropshot lure which to me is fairly important when I’m dropshotting; however the hooklength will then normally be fluorocarbon. Plus when I’m drop shotting for Perch Im not likely to lose more than a couple of yards of braid at most if It ever did decide to part before the fluorocarbon did.

I don’t use Braid for anything else whether it’s for mainline or for any of my hooklengths; or even for normal lures; and it’s mono for everything else including my Barbel line and hooklengths.

Keith

Edited August 28, 2021 by BoldBear

[The Flying Tench]

I'm interested that the last three contributors don't use braid mainline for barbel. It would be interesting to hear why. I haven't barbel fished for several years, but when I did the rivers generally had quite a fast flow, and having a low diameter line helped handle this. What breaking strain mono do you use?

[Whitty]

Braid has no stretch,if I snag fished for barbel braid reel line might be a good choice,but I do not,I fish a reasonable distance above snags,or nowhere near them, I normally use 10-12lb reel line(quoted)said lines break heavier than that,especially when you take on board the stretch,stretch is my friend for my barbel angling,barbel fight in a shock and awe manner and I need all the help I can get,especially when we are talking big fish,14lbs or more,these fish are monsters in the fight and though not as fast as 7/8lbers are a real test for tackle,you have to be 100% confident in every component,lines,hooks,swivels,knots,reels and rods,I am confident with my choices,so can be very aggressive if needed,I play fish on tight drag settings,no bait runner for me as I don't want mister barbus getting a head of steam up,my venues are relatively small rivers and I dont often fish in flood water,so 3ozs would normally be my maximum lead...

Edited August 30, 2021 by Whitty
Spelling error

[Tigger]

 

I have used a number of different coloured lines, both braid and monos.  If legerring I have seen little or no difference in the usual green, brown, clear coloured lines.

If float fishing I prefer to use a brown coloured line, or a clear line.  

I also prefer mono to braid for both purposes.  

I think braid is a good choice for lure fishing.

John, another way around flow causing drag on your line is to fish upstream.  Upstream legering enables you to fish with much less weight also.

Many rivers containing barbel are rocky and if under pressure as it would be when playing a barbel, if the braid glances against a rock it just parts.  It really isn't resiliant enough.  

Alan mentions braid and not using it as he doesn't fish snags.  I do understand what he is saying and in the rivers he fishes braid may be fine for snag fishing.  I wouldn't argue with Alan as he knows his stuff!

However, braid is of little use in my local rivers due to the rocky substrate. I have tried it and it didn't work, I even went up to 30lb plus braid in various makes.  The result was the same...it broke off!

Infact my normal 6lb sensor mono was far better in those same spots.

If fishing a snag swim I only float fish or touch leger fish.  I wouldn't sit in a chair and put my rod in rests (I would never use two rods in a snag swim).  Reason I wouldn't fish like that is quite simple, once the tip of the rod goes round the barbel is hooked and on is already well on it's way to the snag.  By the time the angler has got hold of his rod, even if a baitrunner reel function wasn't in use the bend of the rod alone will very often allow the fish to get into the snag.  

When I float fish or touch leger I clamp down on my reel and use a sweeping strike and hold the rod in that position.  The fish has the bend of the rod and stretch of the line still to give it some lea way towards getting into the snag.  However, bqecause of the sweeping back strike which is held back the fish hasn't got enough lea way to reach the snag.  In these kind of situations you need to have full confidence in your set up and tackle and allow the fish to play themselves out on the bend of the rod and stretch of the line.  Once you sense a weakening of the fish then you can drop the tip a little and wind in as much line as you can and pull back again to widen the gap between the fish and the snag.  You just have to repeat this until you have the fish far enough away from the snag to enable you to play it in more of a normal give and take way.

I have found a shorter rod to be the better tool for the job in these kind of situations as the bend of the rod gives less lea way for the fish to reach the snag....if you get my meaning?

 

[S63]

Pleased to see you posting again Ian.

[BoldBear]

I don’t like using a braid mainline for the same reasons as Ian and Whitty.

A certain amount of stretch is my friend when a powerful Barbel is intent on trying to break free; and also braid doesn’t stand up to being a-braided on rocks or the sharp edges of rushes or on roots etc. the only thing that braid gives you is a total lack of stretch which unless you are fishing at extreme ranges (which you never usually are with barbel) is definately not what is wanted.

Thats why Braid is a definite no no for me as far as Barbel are concerned.

Whenever I’m legering for Barbel I will always use just one rod and touch leger, so that a Barbel take is immediately felt through my finger(s), and I find that I’m playing the fish the second it’s felt without even having to think about it; and even if bites are rare I will still have my hand on my rod handle ready for an immediate pick up.

Keith

Edited August 31, 2021 by BoldBear

[The Flying Tench]

Thanks all of you. I'm convinced! 

[Whitty]

It's strange but I used to be against Daiwa Sensor,but these days I like it,it is robust,very strong,and cheap as chips,some lines are better as new,but don't last as well as Sensor and are much more expensive,the 10lb breaks at between 13 & 14lbs+,very,very strong,diameter doesn't matter for my legering barbel gear,in the lesser strains I have it in 4/6/8lbs too,no real issues,I catch plenty on it,so like Ian feel why spend more,and like him am happy to change it,it cost nowt....