OwdTrout
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Posts posted by OwdTrout
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How did they know it was German. If it was from its accent I would have had a lot of other questions for it
Cheers
OT
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Having escaped the confines of Manchester I'm off to fish the Helmsdale on Saturday. I'll be fishing the association water. Any advice or hot tips (other than make it rain Friday). I would very much like to connect with a silver tourist.
Cheers,
OT
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In simple your leader is not thick/stiff enough to "carry" the fly when you are casting. If you look on good quality, purpose made, spools of tippet material you will see an X number. This should be used to decide the tippet material you are using for a given fly. If you are using a tippet that isn't stiff enough the fly has control of the tippet and goes where it wants: usually into a tangle.
The way to work it out is based on hook size. For a light medium wire hook divide the hook size by 3 and add 1 to get the x number you need. So for a size 12 light/medium wire hook (12/3)+1 = 5. Therefore you need a 5x tippet. If the hook is heavy wire or weighted (why would anyone weight a light wire hook?) use 4, or even 5 if it is very heavy, as the divisor. This results in a lower x number. (The thicker/stiffer the line the lower the x number).
This may cause a reaction, but here goes. In choosing a tippet the breaking strain of the line is irrelevant. Treat breaking strain as a piece of information only. It is not the basis for deciding on the correct tippet. Stiffness of the line is. In fishing a fly you are trying to balance presentation and casting. Too stiff a line makes casting easy, but ruins presentation. Too soft a tippet gives great presentation, but leads to tangles.
Would a tapered leader help? You use a tapered fly line, why? As the energy of a cast turns the fly line over it is used up. To make the cast turn over better the fly line is tapered. As the energy left in the cast diminishes there is less work for it to do, i.e. a thinner line for it to turn over. Then as the cast extends it reaches the end of the fly line. It has to turn the leader over. First it has to overcome the joint between fly line and leader. More loss of energy. Then it reaches the level mono of your leader. Now it has to do a constant amount of work but with a diminishing amount of energy. The result is that half way along the leader there isn't enough energy left to continue the cast. The rest of your leader lands in a heap into the middle of which plops your gold head damsel. Making an instant tangle. A tapered leader has a much larger butt, making a smoother transition from fly line to leader(less energy loss), then it helps with the turnover, in just the same way your tapered fly line does.
The other solution is to come and spend a day on the river with Big Al (now truer than ever) and me, and we might initiate you into the secret right used to banish the tangle gremlins. I believe Al was first taught it by a creature known as a Badgerbunny way, way, way back in the mists of time. (Oops! wrong web site). All I can say is that, if you do come along, bring alcohol, oh and some lubricant.
Cheers,
OT
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...latter part of the 1950s and much of the 1960s ... I owned a couple of them as a kid
Just one question; if they were not imported until the late fifties, how did you have them as a kid?
"Ducking"
OT
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Just read an article describing adding a small muddler head & super gluing the eyes to that. Surely there's an easier way than having to build a drier from old microwave parts?
You can buy one for about £20, or build one for about £4.
Like I said the other way is use 90 second epoxy. It means you have to mix a new batch for each fly but it dries fast. I use it at demos, so I can hand out the fly without waiting for ages for it to dry. It will not run after about 45 seconds.
If you are going to use super glue then I recommend using an accelerator, like Zip Kicker, with it. In my experience eyes stuck to deer hair soon come off no matter what you use to fix them.
There are two other alternatives. Paint the eyes on. Or do what the salmon fly dressers do - use jungle cock!!!
Cheers,
OT
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I'd now like to add a couple of eyes but have been told you need to use epoxy & a rotary fly drier to achieve this.
Surely there must be an easier way?
That depends on the kind of eyes you want to attach. Weighted dumbbell eyes can be tied on with figure of eight wraps. If you want to add epoxy to really secure them then mix it with a little fine silica sand to help it grip.
Teddy bear eyes do need to be epoxied on, and it will run if you don't rotate it. However 90 second epoxy will set fast enough for you to consider rotating them by hand. If you want to make a rotary drier then the motor which turns the plate in a microwave is ideal. (It runs on mains and at the right speed) Find an old microwave and use that. The foam discs that you stick the flies into are from the car polishing industry.
Also get some crocodile clips from an electrical supplier and mount a pin in them, point out, where the wire would go. Then you can put the finished fly into the clip and spear it into the foam. This is easier to do than stick a hook in the disc and causes less damage to the disc. also can be done with the disc running.
Cheers
OT
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Hello again, i didn't think to mention this before but Greg's post reminded me. The main cause of rods being broken when landing trout is the angle between the tip and the line. Greg is right that the rod should be kept at 90 degrees to the line. When you get on a shorter line hold the rod away from the fish, especially when netting the fish. If 180 degrees is the line straight out from the tip ring, anything over 90 degrees reduces the length of the rod that is flexing.
When the fish is close to the net, if your rod hand is close to the net handle, all the flex can be coming from the last 6 inches of the rod. If the fish makes a surge for freedom, that top six inches of the rod can not cope with the power, so it breaks. I was shown this by Tony at Stockport Fly Fishing Supplies on an old tip section. It is amazing how fragile a rod tip is. He broke it with just two fingers.
It may look silly holding your rod at arms length behind you while netting a fish but it is the best thing to do to protect your rod. The beat stance is to stand between the fish and the rod, side on. net in one hand with that extended to the fish the other arm extended in the opposite direction holding the rod. A longer handled net helps.
Cheers,
OT
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Two things, get them on the reel, and if there is cover use it.
Initially after a take you will have to hand line the free line in, but once you have full contact with the fish get all the line onto the reel. I do this by trapping the line to the fish under the index finger of my rod hand and the line to the reel under my little finger of the same hand. Then the other free hand reels in. When I feel the line touch the back of my middle and third finger I know I can let go of the line and use the drag on my reel to play the fish. This is smoother than trying to control the line in your fingers. Also it stops the risk of loose line getting caught up. Which, given that sods law is the only fixed rule in angling, increases with the size of fish you are playing.
In one of his books Dick Walker wrote about playing fish and explained that the fish is trying to get away from YOU, not just this strange resistance it is feeling. If you hide, behind a bush for example. the fish will come in much quicker. He quoted playing times for comparable fish to support this, but my memory isn't that good that I can quote them. I do remember there was a significant difference. If he hid behind available cover it took less than 50% of the time that it took if he stood tall out in the open.
On the weight of rod/line you use, the average size of fly you are using should dictate it. The size of fly gives you the size of tippet, which in turn gives you the weight of fly line. Most people seem to go the other way around and choose the rod first. It doesn't work that way.
Cheers,
OT
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Youtube Video ->
I'm not sorry if it makes you cringe. If you forget your glasses forget fishing. Nuff said.
Cheers,
OT -
Yesterday the Mayflies were in full flow, and for the first time the trout ate them. Presuming your water has them, whats your favourite pattern for them?
I use one of the Wullf flies mostly, but tied with Wally wings to keep the weight down.
(They don't fall over like the hair wings do.)
Cheers,
OT
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Well done indeed. One of the great things about fly fishing is that you don't need a trolley to carry all your gear.
I am puzzled about one thing though..
I'm cooking one of me catches tonight so im chuffed to bits.Why would this lead to your sexual amusement ("chuffed")? Is it something to do with the cooking method? If it is I will decline, in advance, any dinner invite.
Joking apart, well done, and welcome to the gentle art.
Cheers,
OT
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Hi Ian,
Though I don't do this kind of fly fishing I would choose:
Rod: sage TCX 10' 7wt
Reel: LAW anti reverse
Lines: LeWullf Triangle Taper (Floating), AirFlow Di 3 & 7 (sinking), Fast & Slow Glass (intermediate), Rio Midge Tip (Sink Tip)
Net: Can't be specific here but there is a man in the North East that makes the most beautiful landing nets. Works out of an old Post Office. Maybe someone can enlighten us. I used to see him at the game fairs.
Fly Tying Vice: There is only one choice - LAW Bench Vice. With "C" clamp and extension. If you want proof go to any big fly show. You will see more of the tiers using this vice (Or one of his others), than you will see using any other vices, all makes put together. When I first tried one, it gave me better access to the hook than any other vice, and I've used a lot.
The Reel and Vice will not be easy to get. Lawrence is snowed under and can't keep up with demand. You may have to wait a year or longer if he is taking orders.
Cheers,
OT
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Didn't he? For the sake if taste and decency, I didn't publish the shots that followed! (Or maybe its for blackmail later)
OT
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Kirton Flyer isn't the only one who can sneak up behind someone while landing a fish!
Cheers,
OT
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There would be loads of further information anyone would need to be able to start an answer to that. Salmon, trout or grayling, for example, river or loch trout, &c.
However for a gift why not try to get a framed fly? Perhaps a classic salmon fly or something like that. A good idea is if you have a picture of a memorable catch get it framed with the fly used. I myself would find that preferable to a gift of fishing flies. My fly selection being very personal as well as rather eclectic, anyone would find it difficult, if not impossible, to find a selection of flies I would use. (Well it would be impossible, as I only fish with my own flies). Something special to hang on the wall though, perhaps in my tying room (if I ever get one again) would be more permanent.
Some years ago I gave a framed Invicta to our own Alan Roe and I know it is still on the wall in his home. That gives me far more satisfaction than any number of my flies in his fly box. Those he fishes with are disposable, he must never feel that he shouldn't cast them into a tight space for fear of loosing one (as if he would). That is a far better gift for a significant occasion than a couple of dozen fishing flies that can be lost in a few trips.
Other good gift ideas would perhaps be a nice fly box, or priest, engraved to personalise them. I've seen a nice brass priest with split cane shaft and cork handle in a presentation box. Alan has one, and, I'm sure, will give details of where it came from. If that is too expensive I saw a nice telescopic priest just today that would look great engraved (that is to anyone but the fish concerned). It was £11 ish so under £20 with engraving.
Cheers,
OT.
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Its available in Scotland. AFYD (Angling for Youth Development) have a Scottish Progressive Qualification in Game Angling. They are hoping to expand it across the UK in the future.
Cheers,
OT
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Are you taking orders? I really fancy a proper large old fashioned style roll top desk, the kind doctors used to favour. Nice cedar lined drawers (to keep the bugs away from materials). Also a nice swivel leather chair. The sort of thing newspaper editors would use. Making that should get you your GCSE.
Best of luck with it and remember measure twice, cut once.
Cheers,
OT
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You are doing the right thing getting instruction. By far the best way to go is to find a certified instructor, that means, usually, AAPGIA (Association of Advanced Professional Game Angling Instructors) certified. The best instructor in your area is Carl Hutchinson. you can contact him through his site http://www.corporateflyfishing.com/ he is just down the road in Ripon. (He is probably the best anywhere).
Italy - Only fished there once, and that was in Umbria. However the thing that may be of some use. Take some big flies. None of mine came anywhere near the size I needed. Stone flies over 3 inches long and may flies getting close to that size. My biggest ever wild brown took an Ammonite Nymph tied on a size 6 Partrage Czech nymph hook. It bent the hook! Not against the line but by crushing it.
For local information you could do worse than check these out. They are a friendly bunch. http://www.durhamflyfishers.co.uk/
There is plenty of good river fishing in your area. The upper Tees is available on day ticket for trout. The Tyne is a great salmon river, but getting on it may prove difficult.
Hope that helps.
OT
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A friend of mine, Steve, works in a tackle shop. He was asked by the owner of the shop to phone Diawa about something or other. When he got through a lady with a thick Glasgow accent answered. Staves comment was...
"'Ello luv, could you put me through to someone who speaks English please."
Their response to this taught me the one thing I know about Diawa.
They don't have a sense of humour.
I know even less about the rod that you mentioned.
Choosing a rod is difficult, if not impossible, for a beginner. You need to be able to cast to choose a rod. Without a rod you can't learn to cast. The best thing to do is have a beginner's lesson. This needs to be proper instruction. Un-learning the bad habits you pick up from being taught by a well meaning friend, is harder than learning to cast.
The shop that Steve works for run's beginners days. All equipment is provided and there are a couple of instructors on hand to get you going. This is the best way to start. That shop is a not in your area, but there may be something more local. If you are willing to travel for a beginners day PM me and I'll let you have the shop details.
Cheers,
OT.
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Get thee behind me Satan, that is temptation indeed.
About 10 years ago I was too heavy for a float tube. As an incentive to loose weight I promised myself one if I got down enough to use it. Well over the last two years I've managed to lop off about 10 stone. Now I can use one, I have become unsure that it is something I want to do. I've been thinking more of a kayak. Then you come up with an offer like that.
What's more I have an invite to visit a good friend in Sutherland. It looks as though I'm going to have to give in to temptation. Mr Sportsman, I may be in touch with you, if I can arrange the rest of the trip. That's a generous offer I don't think I can resist.
Cheers,
OT.
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The correct place to start on deciding what weight of rod / line you need is the size of fly you are going to be casting. that said its a bit late to make that decision now you have a rod. Casting an 8wt line on a 6wt rod is not to be recommended for a beginner. You will want a line to match your rod. (Notice I didn't say 6wt line) Unfortunately it isn't as simple as buying a 6 wt line for your 6wt rod. Is that a double taper (DT) 6, or a weight forward (WF) 6? What I would recommend is talk to your instructor. Most likely he will have several lines ranging from DT 5 to WF 7. Ask if you can try these on your rod when you go for your lesson. He will be able to advise you on which line balances your rod best. Then get that one.
As for leader and tippet. Well the place where it is probably most crucial is in fishing a dry fly on a river. Wrong tippet gives bad presentation which equals no fish. For a dry on a standard light wire hook divide the hook size by 4 and add 1.
Or put another way, hook #12 so (12/4)+1 = 4 so you need a 4x tippet. That is one that will be soft enough to give good presentation while being stiff enough to carry the fly through the cast. A lighter tippet may give a better presentation, but will not be stiff enough to turn the fly over at the end of the cast. It's always a compromise.
The leader, has to transmit the power of the cast to the tippet. as the power turns the line over the power is, for want of a better word, used up. that is why we use tapered fly lines. As the power dissipates that which is left has less work to do. That is not such a thick a line to turn over. when the end of the line turns over if the power reaches a level length of mono it then has to turn that over. What you have is a constantly decreasing amount of power trying to do the same work. Sooner or later the cast will stall. Dropping all the rest of the leader and tippet in a heap. Most of the time you don't want this. Sometimes you do - presenting a dry fly downstream, for example. Sometimes it doesn't matter. There are techniques to make your cast pile lots of loose line at the end. That is what your instructor is for, to help you learn to do things like that, and know when to. First and foremost don't handicap yourself when learning to make a good straight cast. get a tapered leader.
Some will challenge the need for tapered leaders. All I ask of anyone who does that they give me a reasoned explanation, that will stand up to engineering scrutiny, not just anecdotal evidence.
There was a recent discussion on braided loops here. The simplest method I've found is this one http://www.graysofkilsyth.com/fishing-knot...'s-loop.htm
This may all seem a little complex, but I hold that when trying to do something, even more so when trying to learn, it is always easier if you understand what you are trying to achieve. In this case, how to make the machine of rod and line deliver a fly. I hope it helps.
Cheers,
OT
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Simple solution. Put a box on the licence for an EA bailiff to stamp when he checks it. The licence is then valid for 12 months. Licences not checked are valid until 12 months after they are. That way the EA have to get off their arse's, and out onto the rivers and lakes, if they want to be paid.
Cheers,
OT
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I can assure you that is the most comfortable position, any higher and prolonged tying will cause damage. As for not being able to see then do what I have done. Get reading glasses with the focus set at tying distance rather than reading. There can be 50% difference.
Cheers,
OT
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With the low diameter monos there is a problem in the way they are used. I'll give an example.
An angler uses 5lb bs mono to his fly. When he sees the low diameter mono he buys 5 lb bs, that's what he uses. As a result two things happen. He gets more tangles and broken more often. "This low diameter mono is rubbish." He says. Then goes back to his old brand of standard mono.
This has happened loads of times, it shows a lack of understanding of the cast, and the uses of these monos. The advantage you gain from one of these monos is in increased bs of the mono. The tippet needs to be stiff enough to "carry" the fly through the cast, while being soft enough to give good presentation. The thing to do is choose a low diameter mono of the same diameter as your standard line. Probabily about 8 lbs. If he had done this the mechanics of the cast would not have been changed. The knot strength, though lower than his standard mono in 8 lbs bs, would be higher than that of the standard 5lbs mono.
That is why I stated the tippet size in X numbers, not breaking strain. X numbers are based on diameter. (They were the die sizes that gut was drawn through in the old days). My 5X frog hair is about 5lbs bs. Enormous for its diameter, but that diameter is needed to carry a fly of, say, size 14 or 16.
I hope that makes sense.
Cheers,
OT
Making Flies
in Fly Fishing
Posted
The two rules that have served me well are
"Get one thing right before moving on to the next." e.g. If your rib isn't right don't wind the hackle, undo the rib and get it right.
And...
"Like in computing. Garbage in garbage out". Get the best materials you can. Along with this trust the person who devised the pattern. If they used a material for a particular property and you use something else your fly will not have that property. This is especially true with hair, particularly deer hair.
Better attention to detail = Better fly tying.
Cheers,
OT