New to flyfishing, could use some advice on tackle

[davelovestofish]

Hi There,

 

Now that we're finally having some good weather over here in Kent, I've decided to try a spot of fly fishing. As I'm new to the sport, I have no idea what kit I would need. The only fishing tackle I have is a cheap rod and reel that I got from Tesco a few years back.

 

I am looking at buying from the Friendly Fisherman as they seem to have quite a decent selection of fly fishing tackle. Does anyone have experience with them? What should I be looking at?

 

Cheers

Dave

[Arf]

Hi There,

 

Now that we're finally having some good weather over here in Kent, I've decided to try a spot of fly fishing. As I'm new to the sport, I have no idea what kit I would need. The only fishing tackle I have is a cheap rod and reel that I got from Tesco a few years back.

 

I am looking at buying from the Friendly Fisherman as they seem to have quite a decent selection of fly fishing tackle. Does anyone have experience with them? What should I be looking at?

 

Cheers

Dave

 

Ha, this mornings good weather lasted 3 hours....

 

But if you are still keen, I would say I would stay out of FF for kitting up with fly tackle, unless you have lots of cash and want to spend huge amounts of money of real quality tackle, or you stay well within the SPECIALS bin.

 

I'd say get a 6/7 weight medium action rod for freshwater, I'm guessing its trout you want to start with. Floating weight forward line... Fly fishing is one of those sports steeped in tradition and has a few companies that historically make top quality kit, but you pay a triple-premium price for it.

 

No need for this stuff if you are a beginner, and it won't help you catch any more fish.

 

Hope this helps,

Arf

[OwdTrout]

Hi Dave,

 

Well I don't know the shop you mentioned so can't help there.

 

As a guide to rods and lines this will let you choose what is suitable.

AFTMA, length, Use

 

0 to 3 Up to 9’ Specialized light line fishing usually in small streams. Not good if there is any wind.

 

4 to 6 Up to 11’+ General river fishing. Rods up to 10’ are used for dry fly, the longer ones for fishing spider wets and Czech nymphs

 

5 to 8 9’ to 11’ Still water trout

 

6 to 12 9’ to 17’ Salmon and sea trout

 

6 to 15 9’ Salt water fly fishing

 

9 & 10 9’ to 10’ Pike

 

AFTMA This is based on the weight of fly line that a rod is designed to cast. (the first ten yards of it to be precise)

 

The correct way to choose a fly rod is to look at the size range of the flies you are going to be casting. You need to choose a line that has that has enough weight to carry the fly. Then a rod to cast that line. My 8'6" AFTMA 4 rods will not cast a pike fly; they are just too heavy.

 

Also I don't trust a rod maker who will not commit to a single AFTMA number for their rods. if a maker puts on his rod AFTMA 4 to 8 they are really saying "I don't know what line this rod is for".

 

You may hear the term "balanced outfit". That is really the holy grail. It is about matching everything perfectly. However what feels good to you may not appeal to me. You need to try out the rod and line before you buy. At the very minimum on grass.

 

It is a shame you are a long way from me. Otherwise I'd take you out and you could try my kit. At worst you would then know you don't like it. It is far better to start with someone who is proficient. you will need to get the basics of casting in a field before you start. if someone can not explain the mechanics of a cast to you they are not someone to learn from. Good casting looks relaxed. If they are putting lots of effort in then they can't cast themselves. All you will get from them is their bad habits.

 

Some years ago Donald Downs expounded on teaching children to cast. he recommended a rod not longer than 1 1/2 times their height. Hewel Morgan (World champion fly caster) says, "do not go above 9' for a rod to learn with". For now stick to 9', it will cover most things.

 

If there is one area you can save on it is the reel. Get an inexpensive reel and put the cash saved into a better floating line. For sinking lines mill ends will do for now. Knowing the exact sink rate will not be important unless you get into competition.

 

Most of all though, enjoy it.

 

I hope that has helped, but I fear it has only clouded the waters.

 

Cheers,

 

OT

[Alan Roe]

Hmm Balanced outfit perfect for launching up the bank when youve mesed up your 100th cast of the day reservoirs are best for tackle launching ....more bank space doncha know

[arbocop]

As a guide to rods and lines this will let you choose what is suitable.

AFTMA, length, Use

 

0 to 3 Up to 9’ Specialized light line fishing usually in small streams. Not good if there is any wind.

 

4 to 6 Up to 11’+ General river fishing. Rods up to 10’ are used for dry fly, the longer ones for fishing spider wets and Czech nymphs

 

5 to 8 9’ to 11’ Still water trout

 

6 to 12 9’ to 17’ Salmon and sea trout

 

6 to 15 9’ Salt water fly fishing

 

9 & 10 9’ to 10’ Pike

 

You may hear the term "balanced outfit". That is really the holy grail. It is about matching everything perfectly. However what feels good to you may not appeal to me. You need to try out the rod and line before you buy. At the very minimum on grass.

 

Good advice above - but don't forget to practice casting with a fly or small piece of foam. If you cast without, you will crack the line. Snip off the bend of an old fly if you are nervous about hooking yourself. Oh, and ALWAYS wear glasses. When sea or pike fishing I wear the clear protective glasses that builders use, they come in tinted and clear and offer better protection than normal sunglasses despite being OK for trout. Bass/pike flies are very big and heavy and ina cross wind can easily get caught. That said don't worry, I never hurt myself when learning although I always followed the glasses advice.

 

As for rods - there's lots of choice. Go for carbon though, you don't want to learn with an old glass rod no matter what anyone says! I would suggest a 9ft AFTM #7/8. If you want to select a line for it, go for the #7 not the 8, you will find it forgiving of your sins. You will often be lifting a lot of line off the water when you are starting, if you overload the rod, it will make it harder.

 

I would suggest a double taper line first. You will get less tangles and it's more forgiving. Distance won't be an issue initially. You can go onto a forward taper later. My advice would be to avoid a sinking line until you can cast a floater.

 

Regarding reels, well until you are more practised think of it as a line holder only. It should work as a reel and have a drag, but other than that it should be fine. However, if you can stretch to what's known as a 'large arbour' reel, it will be useful. The wide and bigger diameter spool generates less kinks in the line (known as memory). Less kinks and curls in the line = less tangles.

 

If you ca get someone to show you - all the better. However, I learnt without instruction and managed OK.