Ive got a 1,3/4 lb test curve daiwa rod but...

[carper_AJ]

Ive got a 1,3/4 lb test curve daiwa rod but i aint sure if it is too soft

 

i bought this daiwa sensor carp rod because i fish margins on the surface for double figure carp.

&& this rod is just about 11 foot, therefore give me the helping hand shouldnt it in small gaps etc.

BUTT, when i feel the tip of the rod, it seems extremely flimsy,

[is this just because i am used too using stronger tipped rods ?]

 

i catch double fig carp to roughlyy 17lb but if the odd twenty pops its head on the surface i want the rod too have enough strength too able to handle it and for me too feel safe playing the fish

&& another query is that i have 10lb line on my rouge 50 reel, will the rod be able to handle that thickness of lines due too the smaller eye holes ??

 

i would appreciate any help as i am going fishing tomorrow morning, [32st may]

too a place guarented catch plenty of mid doubles or bigger

 

[soo if you can tell me anything that changes my mind before then, i can take my 2,1/2 test curve rod instead heheee

 

thats all i wanted too ask,

have a great season by the way everyone this year =P

AARON =D

[Newt]

A 1.75 lb T/C rod should easily handle any of the fish you mention and should provide more sport with them than a heavier rod.

 

The heavier T/C rods are needed if you are tossing out a rig that is too heavy for the lighter rods and it is almost never a matter of the fish since a good rod will handle really large fish.

 

Sorry, not familiar with that reel or line so can't help there.

[noodle996]

1.75 is fine

 

its only the vougue in recent years to go heavy on the tests, remember the mk IV avon which had walker and yates record fish were only 1.25 test they were 44lb and 51 lb

 

10lb line will be fine unless its snaggy

 

but if you want it for floater fishing try a 20lb floating braid with the senser

[Oldfellah]

I quite agree with the previous two answers. The rod will be more than adequate for most carp fishing, we used to consider the 1.75lb tc as the norm and 2lb as heavy. I use my old Chapman 500 for float fishing and stalking at my fishery and have taken fish to mid 30's without any worries at all and thats only 1.5lb tc. In fact the biggest single factor in losing fish to hook pulls is rods that are far to stiff.(thats just my opinion of course). Enjoy it.

[Peter Sharpe]

I'm not familiar with the Daiwa Sensor rods, but I have slight reservations. The VCS Specimen rods were extremely soft in their action, to the extent that the 1.25lb tc rod was incapable of bringing a 3lb chub to the net without the tip wobbling all over the place. My 2.25lb tc Daiwa rod is just about right for Trent barbel, but feels gutless if required to cast a weight over 3ozs. I've come to the conclusion that these days, you have to ignore test curves altogether and try to borrow a rod similar to what you are after before buying one.

[barnyparker]

I'm fairly new to this and wanted some pointers on Surface fishing......I'll be aiming on double figured carp where there are a few twenties

 

 

Whats the best hook link to use and how long should it be?

[''SURFACE'STALK3R'']

barny parker,

 

i personally dont use a hooklink,

i use two spools which on one i have 8lb clear line,

&& on thee other spool i have 10lb lightish green

&& thats goes fine for me,

i have some trouble getting a take the odd time,

from a weary carp that sees the line soo yeah a hooklinkk may work better m8,

lyyk the other day, i went to weybread pits, filled with double figure carp,

which take off top lyyk anything, but that day, with my line,

they were really weary andd i only had one double at 11&half

and somee other smaller ones

i intt no expert lmaoo, just i prefer straight through, noo hooklink

 

give me informed bout how your surface adventures goo!! lol

 

goood luck matee

[DavyR]

Just to offer an alternative view to the last poster, I use a hooklength of about 5 feet, in a breaking strain at least 2lb lighter than my main line. This is in conjunction with a Middy Carp Bomb surface controller with a short piece of silicone tubing through the top eye. The main line passes through the tubing and is then tied to a small swivel connected to the hooklength. The swivel is pulled partly into the tubing, so if I'm unlucky enough to be snapped, the controller comes free and the fish is just left with the (barbless) hook and a short length of line, which it usually sheds quite quickly. The danger of not using a lighter hooklength is that fish might be left towing a controller (if one is used fixed) or a long length of line.