anchor trolley

[chaz62]

I have seen the trolley system used on AA, just wondered if anyone uses a different system?

having spent quite a bit on a kayak thats built to be near enough water tight, I don't really want to

put too many holes in for all the cleats etc.

Any ideas? cheers

[spanner]

I rigged up mine on my P13 without drilling any holes and it can all be removed and returned to standard in a trice.

 

For the stern pulley I fitted a small D-ring to one of the rudder bolts.

 

At the bow I clipped the pulley to the lifting pad eye.

 

I removed the runners for the deck rigging and used the same bolts and recessed nuts to mount plastic pipe clips that I cut in half, so they act as J guides to hold the anchor line in place.

[chaz62]

Thanks for that Spanner, another question, what width do you use for your anchor line?

Cheers

[jonnyboy]

Hey Spanner, nice system, any chance of a step by step for morons like me

[spanner]

oops... just noticed the replies

 

When I'm anchoring in 'deep' water I use 200m of 65Kg dacron.

When I'm anchoring in 'shalllow' water I use 100m of 110Kg dacron, cos its easier on the hands.

When I'm anchoring south of the border I use 100ft of 3mm cord from B&Q

 

The anchor trolley is made using the same cord from B&Q, with a short loop of on bungey cord, which also came from B&Q, to allow some stretch. handy for putting it tohgether and for riding at anchor. You can see the bungey on the right of the screw-gate in the picture.

 

2 x SS pulleys, 2 x SS snap-gate carabiners and 1 x screw-gate carabiner came from a chandlers, as did the pipe clips but any hardware store should have them . The D-ring came from an old walking boot, so I guess you can get them a cobblers.

 

 

 

1. Remove plastic screw from the rudder mount.

2. Use a SS M5 bolt to attach the D-ring.

3. Use one snap-gate carabiner to fit a pulley to the D-ring and the other to attach the second pulley to the pad eye at the bow

3. Unscrew the runners for the deck rigging from one side of the yak and remove the bolts from the runners.

4. Cut/saw the pipe clips in half, making sure you dont cut the mounting hole and that the base is short enough to fit in the recess where the deck runners were

5. Use the bolts from the runners to mount the 1/2 pipe clips in the same mounting points that the runners were.

6. Tie one end of the trolley cord around the bungey loop, I used a bowline, and fit the bungey to screw-gate.

7. Run the cord though the bow pulley, from the bottom up, and round the stern pulley from the top down, under the clips all the way

8. Tie it off to the screw-gate with another bowline. The short loop of bungey means you can keep the trolley taught and still have a bit of leeway for tieing the bowline and getting the length right.

 

 

Hope that helps.

[Iwantmorefish]

oops... just noticed the replies

 

When I'm anchoring in 'deep' water I use 200m of 65Kg dacron.

When I'm anchoring in 'shalllow' water I use 100m of 110Kg dacron, cos its easier on the hands.

When I'm anchoring south of the border I use 100ft of 3mm cord from B&Q

 

The anchor trolley is made using the same cord from B&Q, with a short loop of on bungey cord, which also came from B&Q, to allow some stretch. handy for putting it tohgether and for riding at anchor. You can see the bungey on the right of the screw-gate in the picture.

 

2 x SS pulleys, 2 x SS snap-gate carabiners and 1 x screw-gate carabiner came from a chandlers, as did the pipe clips but any hardware store should have them . The D-ring came from an old walking boot, so I guess you can get them a cobblers.

1. Remove plastic screw from the rudder mount.

2. Use a SS M5 bolt to attach the D-ring.

3. Use one snap-gate carabiner to fit a pulley to the D-ring and the other to attach the second pulley to the pad eye at the bow

3. Unscrew the runners for the deck rigging from one side of the yak and remove the bolts from the runners.

4. Cut/saw the pipe clips in half, making sure you dont cut the mounting hole and that the base is short enough to fit in the recess where the deck runners were

5. Use the bolts from the runners to mount the 1/2 pipe clips in the same mounting points that the runners were.

6. Tie one end of the trolley cord around the bungey loop, I used a bowline, and fit the bungey to screw-gate.

7. Run the cord though the bow pulley, from the bottom up, and round the stern pulley from the top down, under the clips all the way

8. Tie it off to the screw-gate with another bowline. The short loop of bungey means you can keep the trolley taught and still have a bit of leeway for tieing the bowline and getting the length right.

Hope that helps.

Spanner nice and simple set up, couple of questions before I copy your idea. How do you lock off the anchor line and lock off the anchor trolley, the AA set up has those neat little cleats but if the idea is to avoid extra holes what is the answer.

cheers

[spanner]

I lock off the anchor trolley by taking a turn of the paddle keep around it.

 

For the anchor line I do one of two things depending on the situation.

 

The easiest is to tie an overhand loop in the anchor line and use a small snap link to attach it to the screw gate.

 

When fishing for BIG fish I want to be able to drop the anchor in a hurry without having to pull the anchor trolley back from the stern/bow to the cockpit. Then I lock off the anchor line by taking a loop twice through the pad eye that is just back from the padde keep and put the loop over the paddle keep post. That way it is never actually tied and all I have to do is lift the line off the post and away it goes..... Mind and attach a float to your anchor line reel/winder first and make sure it wont unwind, no problem if it is a divers reel with a ratchet, I just use a bungy strap wrapped around the reel.