Looking for C&C

[Clifftop]

Just got me a new Nikon D40X, the lens i used here was a 55-200. How can i improve my shots.

I'm currently reading the manual but it is rather large and a lot of it goes over my head. I will persevere tho and will (hopefully ) learn by trial and error but a pointer in the right direction would be helpfull.

I realise i used a too large lens on the Flower but i was just thinking that it would be good for comparing with the other 2

 

1st photo taken close up about 30cm

 

2nd photo taken from about 100 metres

 

 

3rd photo taken from about 500 metres

[image]

Make = NIKON CORPORATION

Model = NIKON D40X

Orientation = top/left

Software = Ver.1.00

Date Time = 2007-08-27 22:13:49

 

[Camera]

Exposure Time = 1/250"

F Number = F10

Exposure Program = Not defined

ISO Speed Ratings = 100

Exif Version = Version 2.21

Date Time Original = 2007-08-27 22:13:49

Date Time Digitized = 2007-08-27 22:13:49

Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV

Max Aperture Value = F5.66

Metering Mode = Pattern

Light Source = unknown

Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode

Focal Length = 200mm

Maker Note = 27424 Byte

User Comment =

Subsec Time = 0.60"

Flashpix Version = Version 1.0

Color Space = sRGB

Exif Image Width = 3872

Exif Image Height = 2592

Sensing Method = One-chip color area sensor

File Source = DSC

Scene Type = A directly photographed image

Custom Rendered = Normal process

Exposure Mode = Auto exposure

White Balance = Auto white balance

Digital Zoom Ratio = 1x

Focal Length In 35mm Film = 300mm

Scene Capture Type = Landscape

Gain Control = None

Contrast = Normal

Saturation = Normal

Sharpness = Hard

Subject Distance Range = unknown

 

[Thumbnail]

Thumbnail = 160 x 120

 

[MakerNote (Nikon)]

Makernote Version = 0210

ISO Speed Used = 100

Colour Mode = COLOR

Quality = NORMAL

White Balance = AUTO

Sharpening = AUTO

Focus Mode = AF-A

Flash Setting =

Auto Flash Mode =

White Balance Bias Value = 0

White Balance Red, Blue Coefficients = 472/256, 357/256, 256/256, 256/256

000D = 00, 01, 06, 00

Exposure Diff = 00, 01, 0C, 00

ThumbOffset = 2694

Flash Compensation = 00, 01, 06, 00

ISO Speed Requested = 100

Photo corner coordinates = 0, 0, 3872, 2592

0017 = 00, 01, 06, 00

001B = 0, 3904, 2616, 3904, 2616, 0, 0

001D = 8036617

001E = 1

001F = 30, 31, 30, 30, 02, 00, 00, 00

Tone Compensation (Contrast) = AUTO

Lens Type = Nikon G series Lens

Lens Min/Max Focal Length, Max Aperture = 550/10, 2000/10, 40/10, 56/10

Flash Used = Flash Not Used

Auto Focus Area = 02, 00, 00, 01

Bracketing & Shooting Mode = 0

008A = 2

008B = 3B, 01, 0C, 00

Colour Mode = MODE3a

Lighting Type = NATURAL

Edited August 30, 2007 by Clifftop

[Westie]

Hi Clifftop - can you post up the EXIF information for each shot - should be able to cut and paste this from your photo hosting site (Photobucket shows EXIF info) or from the software package that you use to tweak your shots. That will be helpful, I think, in all C&C photos, because it will not only give info about focal length, aperature used, shutter speed etc, but it will also usually give info about White Balance, metering mode selected, whether flash was used and the like, all of which will help to make suggestions, especially from those that know a lot more about this lark than me!

 

Congrats on the new acquisition - I'm sure you'll love the D40x. My love affair with Nikon started about 9 months ago... Is the lens the one with VR? Helpful to know, because that will mean that you can handhold with slower shutter speeds than would ordinarily be the case.

 

With the flower photo, it is difficult to tell where the sun was coming from - it looks to me like it might be back/right, which can make it difficult to get the exposure right, as one side will be exposed to bright sun, the other shadow. It can be difficult for the camera to meter well, as it is thinking in terms of white/grey/black and find a mid way point (I think). Hence why the detail in the petals is evident on the left, but blown a little bit on the bottom right. You could experiment with exposure bracketing, so that you take picture for e.g. 1/3 + and - and see which looks best to the eye. Plus, with bright coloured flower and dark background, difficult to get the detail out in the darker areas, although I like that, given that the focal point is the flower. You can always experiment with flash, even in bright sunlight, although the closer you are to the subject, the more chance there is of washing out the colour completely.

 

You can see how the picture looks in software, mucking about with the exposure. Composition wise, you can always think about having the 'main' focus of the picture not necessarily in the centre of the frame - e.g. put the 'main' flower a bit more to the top left and bring in the flowers underneath it more into the frame with some of the better lit greenery, even though they are blurred by the depth of field. Or go for a portrait shot, with the flower filling the frame. I just keep experimenting with angles etc.

 

Photo no 2 looks like it was taken in roaringly bright and hot conditions! Lucky chap. Perhaps dial down the exposure again. I haven't used a polarising filter yet - it's on my list to buy, but given your beautiful weather, it might allow you to get a bit more blue back in the sky - I could be talking cobblers and no doubt someone with a lot more experience than me can give you a steer. I like the colours of the advertising hoardings, table and chairs and the detail in the writing on the roof of the building. You could try a portrait shot of the right third of the picture (everything to the right of the telegraph pole).

 

Photo no. 3 - again, a polarising filter might help? Not sure.

 

Have fun with the camera. Digital is brilliant - you can experiment at no cost, other than time!

 

ATB

 

Andy.

Edited August 30, 2007 by Westie

[Hellbelly]

Whoot whoot, way to go Pa. I wont offer any advise just yet because Westie has covered it above. I'd suggest you read about depth of field V shutter speed, ISO and exposure compensates. The biggest tip i could give would be to get out and shoot shoot shoot. I've been doing for months now and I'm slowly getting the hang of it. Still got way more to suss out but now i can see what i need to suss out. I know you're going to love it.

 

Mick.

 

Oh, just looked. Westie, the EXIF is in the photo's. I dont know what browser you run but I use Firefox and I right click and select "View EXIF". This is EXIF off the flower.

 

* Camera Make = NIKON CORPORATION

* Camera Model = NIKON D40X

* Picture Orientation = normal (1)

* X-Resolution = 300/1 = 300.00

* Y-Resolution = 300/1 = 300.00

* X/Y-Resolution Unit = inch (2)

* Software/Firmware Version = Ver.1.00

* Last Modified Date/Time = 2007:08:27 22:23:10

* Y/Cb/Cr Positioning (Subsampling) = co-sited / datum point (2)

 

Exif Sub IFD

 

* Exposure Time (1 / Shutter Speed) = 10/800 second = 0.01250 second

* Lens F-Number/F-Stop = 80/10 = F8.00

* Exposure Program = n/a (0)

* ISO Speed Ratings = 100

* Exif Version = 0221

* Original Date/Time = 2007:08:27 22:23:10

* Digitization Date/Time = 2007:08:27 22:23:10

* Components Configuration = 0x01,0x02,0x03,0x00 / YCbCr

* Compressed Bits per Pixel = 2/1 = 2.00

* Exposure Bias (EV) = 0/6 = 0.00

* Max Aperture Value (APEX) = 39/10 = 3.90

Max Aperture = F3.86

* Metering Mode = pattern / multi-segment (5)

* Light Source / White Balance = unknown (0)

* Flash = Flash did not fire

* Focal Length = 240/10 mm = 24.00 mm

 

HB.

[Clifftop]

Thanks guys.

Westie i posted one lot of exif then realised that the exif is in the photos anyway. right click and the info is there instead of me taking up a lot of space on the thread.

The lens does have the VR. not that i know what it means. It looks like ive a lot more to learn than i thought.

I suppose one day it will all make sense.

[Westie]

Thanks guys.

Westie i posted one lot of exif then realised that the exif is in the photos anyway. right click and the info is there instead of me taking up a lot of space on the thread.

The lens does have the VR. not that i know what it means. It looks like ive a lot more to learn than i thought.

I suppose one day it will all make sense.

Hi Clifftop - the comp I was using was at work - back home now, so I've got the EXIF reader here, but cheers for posting it all. The VR is Vibration Reduction and very handy in reducing camera shake when it is activated. Keep it on and in Normal mode (not Active, unless you are taking pictures from a moving car/boat, in which case use Active). The best way to see what it does is by zooming out to 200mm with the VR off and composing a shot. Press the shutter half down to lock focus and you will probably notice movement through the viewfinder just from slight hand movement. Some people are steadier than others. The rule of thumb is to get a sharp shot, use a minimum shutter speed as the focal length. At 200mm, your camera is effectively a 300mm due to the 1.5x crop. So if you are using the lens at its fullest zoom, you would need a shutter speed of 1/500 or faster to pull off the best chance of a sharp shot. To get that shutter speed with the largest aperature on your lens at that range (f5.6), your camera may well automatically increase the ISO (the equivalent of film speed) which could spoil the quality of the image (make it noisy).

 

If you now switch VR on and go through the same process, when you half press the shutter down, wait half a second or more before you fully press the shutter down to take the picture - you will hear clicks within the lens and a quiet whirring sound - you should see the image stabilise as you look at it through the viewfinder - it becomes much steadier than before. This then allows you to reduce the shutter speed. You have to give it a short amount of time to do its thing, though, hence leaving the shutter half pressed for about a second before you finally take the picture. I think with that lens, Nikon claims 2 or 3 stops of difference when VR is on. In basic terms, that means that with the VR helping to steady the shot, you can slow the shutter speed by 3 notches (stops) and get the same result. This would allow you to take the photo using a shutter speed of 1/60.

 

VR is not so great for moving objects - it can't freeze motion. Only faster shutter speeds can do that and with that comes the need for larger aperatures on lenses e.g. f2.8 and with that comes an empty bank account (potentially).

 

Hope this helps.

 

Andy.

[Guest Shots for fun]

Hi all,

 

I was playing about with the camera this afternoon, here is what i got.

 

 

I was trying to make it look moody.

Edited September 3, 2007 by Shots for fun

[MrWiggly]

Oh, just looked. Westie, the EXIF is in the photo's. I dont know what browser you run but I use Firefox and I right click and select "View EXIF". This is EXIF off the flower.

 

 

I am running FireFox ... and it don't do it for me !! It doesn't show "View EXIF".

 

What version FF do you have HB ??

 

Wiggly.

[Hellbelly]

I dont know Mr W but had it for ages. Maybe you need to install this.

 

https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/3905

 

HB.

[Guest Jan V]

I dont know Mr W but had it for ages. Maybe you need to install this.

 

https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/3905

 

HB.

thanks for that link, HB. Works great and sure saves time extracting the data

[Sutton Warrior]

SW moved it to the C&C pinned thread

Edited September 2, 2007 by Sutton Warrior