Somerset in Jersey

will look at this any pics or diagrams to assist?

Sopke with the maritime agency and coast guard today, started a few questions concerning lights to be shown, discussion got in tense as the law is a bit misty. Waiting for a call back but as present, they say. 1. must carry an all round light / tourch ( but never found a 306 tourch) 2. if anchord caused the usual pregnant pause 3. if on sail caused an even bigger pause over view between pauses was if traveling between sunset and sunrise a white light should be shown all round, Looking further in to the laws of the road / sea the difficulty is being anchored and in channels made for large vessels. Rules exist for sail craft and ? rowed craft were does a yak fit? Until clarrification comes which i am awaiting making one self safe is parramount. so a perminant white light will help. But in navicatable deep water channel one must be prepared for large vessels approaching on any quater. Radar will not see you unless you have a deflector. Have power boated / fished for years and can see the reasoning! In essance remember the rules of the sea and if at night know the light from other vessels. This site may be of use http://www.yachting-life.net/new index/frames/recognition_frame.htm

OK Drifter fisher

OK after all ive seen and heard if one does not want to drill or make holes in your yak, how would you sugest to fix an anchor, been thinking about this but no real answer comes to mind. help and advice appreciated theor must be a way.

Game on. if you have the relevant day pass from the missus

old ? ain't you only as old as you feel? god you must feel knackered...

I like smilies who needs words

seadoo are outing and cack new fish varieties that should be nitified to the natural history museum?

The yanks call that friendly fire seadoo, (friendly) thank god we have enemies....more work for the breweries... You, prowler me all have a great bust up next time your in jersey then the rest of the jersey mob get in on the act. wooppee what a hangover we all would have..

Thats my reason exactly. and more?

Just a thought, I have now seen a lot of repeat questions regarding anchors, PFD's safety equipment and which kayak etc. would it be possible for instead of searching, a new catorgory is added as advice and help. Under this their could be listings with links to all relevant information concerining the points in question, this would save repetative posts. plus if you posted a help topice you could attatch it straight away to the help thread. just a thought. plus we could have a link page for all the good links people post so we dont forget. i.e best kit sites, kayak dealers etc.

seems to be a good question to ask, will try to speak with them tomorrow and will poast their response, at the end of the day the light/s are for anti collision requirements at night so their may be a rule that we need to follow.

Speciman Have you checked the byelaws. I have heard that all craft that are rowing may be requierd to have at night a flashing allround white lamp when on water after sunset and before sunrise. I understand that on certain waters in Oz this is allready the case. Also if you are using one of the sails attached to your craft you now are incharge of a sail boat and must obey those rules. This is my interpritation of the rules and offer them only as advice, I myseld would like to know the true extent of the requirements and as i write this i will ask the coast guard tomorrow.

Have used dry trousers and wet boots for ages, have been looking at the US they have a new boot by Henderson that says its like gortex for the wet boot, allows little water in but lets it dry. also Orca have a dry boot that says it pumps the water out as you walk. any one know of a UK distributor or will just have to get them in $ from the US.

My suggestion as i do is strip it down every time, don't leave your batteries conected keep them on slow charge. then clean, grease and protect. That way its all avoided.

found this http://www.fostersofbirmingham.co.uk/ST22722 less than £40

As seadoo says its only banter, welcome aboard and if you get lost paddling, all us paddlers on jersey will point you back in the right direction. Turn left at Sark and if you find Alderney you have gone to far. You may have inadvertantly started the interislands next contest. By the way is it true you go to vets every other month to get your hooves clipped? LOL

Oh goodie a nice subject. Yak Diver i would have thought from your name you would understand this principle, its used a lot on another thing that dives. Nuclear submarines etc. by passing an electric current through the water or salt water via a cathode and anode, you find that each element atracts a certain ion from the water or element submersed in. In the case of water this creates oxygen around the anode and hydrogen around the cathode. pipe the oxygen into tanks and hear we go can breath a lot longer so can stay down as long as you have power (nuclear) and plenty of anodes and cathodes. Ok the battery quandry this should only occur if the terminals are wet or the battery is fully submersed, as follows for electorlosys to occur you need a flowing current, if turned of at the device the positive line is severed so the electron flow is turned of theirfore no electrolosys. but if on and submersed or wet then electrolosys is possible, the colour of the deposited residue on the terminals will be consistant with the nature of the element in contact with it, either nickle, coper or zinc, all producing their relevant oxides similarf to rust on iron. fairly simple really. but nothing to be realy worried about if you have protected you equipment fully. spraying your battery terminals with something like varnish will help prevent this occuring.

Just to inform people about ratings for protection the JIS scale is as follows: The Japan Industrial Standards (JIS) for water resistance uses a "0" to "8" scale to define the level of water ingress protection built into each product. If the product was tested in compliance with this standard it is usually listed on the product spec sheet. JIS "0" No special protection JIS "1" Vertically dripping water shall have no harmful effect (Drip resistant 1) JIS "2" Dripping water at an angle up to 15 degrees from vertical shall have no harmful effect (Drip resistant 2) JIS "3" Falling rain at an angle up to 60 degrees from vertical shall have no harmful effect (Rain resistant) JIS "4" Splashing water from any direction shall have no harmful effect (Splash resistant) JIS "5" Direct jetting water from any direction shall have no harmful effect (Jet resistant) JIS "6" Direct jetting water from any direction shall not enter the enclosure (Water tight) JIS "7" Water shall not enter the enclosure when it is immersed in water under defined conditions (Immersion resistant) JIS "8" The equipment is usable for continuous submersion in water under specified pressure (Submersible) The equipment is usable under relative humidity of 90% and up (Humidity resistant). and the IP scale is as follows: IP-rated product certification is defined by a 2-digit number (i.e. IP54). The first digit describes the level of protection against the solid matter, dust and particles, the second - against water. How to read the rating: First digit equals to: 0: No Special Protection 1 Protected Against Solid Objects > 50 mm in diameter 2: Protected Against Solid Objects > 12 mm in diameter 3: Protected Against Solid Objects > 2.5 mm in diameter 4: Protected Against Solid Objects > 1 mm in diameter 5: Dust Protected 6: Dust Tight Second digit equals to: 0: No Special Protection 1: Protected Against Dripping Water 2: Protected Against Dripping Water When Tilted Up to 15 degrees From Normal Position 3: Protected Against Spraying Water 4: Protected Against Splashing Water 5: Protected Against Water Jet Spray 6: Protected Against Heavy Jet Spray 7: Protected Against the Effects of Immersion 8: Protected Against Submersion Do not let the two get confused as does happen. and if it says it will work to the relevant Jis or IP rating you must be able to prove it was only in the water for 20 min at 0.75m which is dificult. As simon says, its meant as an accidental wetting, even though when buying electrical devices for the outside you will normally leave an IP65 socket screwed to the wall for years and never worry about it, and it will get rained and hailed on for longer than 30 mins. Those with electronics who are concerend should try this: http://www.force4.co.uk/ProductDetails/mcs...7b-091b40c0d129 It does from experiance what it says on the tin. And i ensure that all my external contacts or conections have a good spray every time it gets even the slightes damp. Just thought this might make understanding the scales and quoted resistance easier for some people. And just as a foot note i never understood why the Japs came up with the idea, but then again most electrical appliances come fromthat area now anyway.

Hi I have had the IC-M31 since release and have used it on both my boat and yak, like this model as you have a spare battery in the form of a AA battery holder that you can use as emergency power. Also bought a few for a Sea Cadet group so it was good enough for them. Like the large display and its user friendly, the IC-M71 has 0.5m extra depth and an extra 1 watt of power if your going that far from shore it would be usefull. But for value for money I would recommend the M31. check the specs and compare them. Also think about using a small cork float like a key ring to prevent it going below its depth. also makes it easier to reteive.

Not yet, been a bit on the busy side, but we all must have a bash soon.

Hi Grant which part of the cable seems to have corrosion on it? Is it the conector? if so ensure its well cleaned out after use salt water is the worlds worst corrosive wash everything down with fresh water after use. It should not affect the operation of the unit unless its really bad, it can form a varnish type residue layer that will over time affect the conections and could give you trouble if not kept an eye on. quick spray with wd40 will help and give it a slight clean with an old tooth brush to ensure no salt is still in their. If you want me to pop round to check it out no problem just give me a shout.

Is that an offer to be the bean Guinneapig mate.

OMG cop a load of this http://www.fska.org/tooth.htm

Hard life aint it mate.