Can you help with weight /float conversion

[suecharge]

I have a 3g waggler float and I have no idea what size shot or how many to use...getting confused looking up conversion charts. Currently I have some No1 and No 2 shots. can anyone advise please.

[suecharge]

I have a 3g waggler float and I have no idea what size shot or how many to use...getting confused looking up conversion charts. Currently I have some No1 and No 2 shots. can anyone advise please.

 

 

Also what are loaded floats please?

[Andy_1984]

just start adding some of the shot you have until its cocked the way you like it then you will know it needs x amount of No1 shot it takes then you can experiment with shotting patterns

[AddictedToScopex]

I have a 3g waggler float and I have no idea what size shot or how many to use...getting confused looking up conversion charts. Currently I have some No1 and No 2 shots. can anyone advise please.

 

The link below shows you the size marking of the split shot followed by its weight in grams. If you wish to get to 3 grammes simply use a combination of shot that will equal 3 grams.

 

Split Shot Chart

 

I often use a 2 litre drinks bottle and cut the top off. I then attach a piece of line to the float and work out how many of each shot I think I need based on the rating on the float and attach them. Then I fine tune by adding or removing shot as needed as the ratings on the float are almost always off.

 

Finally I write the shot numbers followed by how many I need of each on the side of the float for future reference. Saves a lot of messing about on the bank and makes sure your floats are shotted perfectly.

Edited July 21, 2011 by AddictedToScopex

[chavender]

this is a very usful shot calculator

 

http://moopoo.net/fishing/calculator/

[John Weddup]

For large wagglers of 3 grams and over I always use olivettes.

 

These are a longer shape and are bought in their grams sizes.

 

You could put a 2.5 gram on your float rig at wherever you would want the bulk weight to be (maybe 18inches from hook) and a few dropper shot below this. Usually for me no8s or no10s.

 

You may also find your float rated at 3 grams takes 4grams. This is not uncommon. If so you can add shot near your olivette or better still change olivette to a larger one.

 

I find the less shot on the line the better as you get less tangles. Also the olivette is a better shape to avoid tangles.

 

When stillwater waggler fishing on large waters or in poor conditions I will go up to a 10gram waggler. I often fish 8 grams. When properly shotted down its just as sensitive but you will gain by having much better control with the extra weight and less effort to cast the distance you require.

 

Most tangles arise through casting into wind and espescially when using too light a float so you are pushing it out too hard.

 

 

 

Regards

 

John

[AddictedToScopex]

I think that while the conversion charts or apps can be good as a guide it is always wise to carry out the test yourself while following them as a guideline because each and every float is different as a result of manufacturing and if you want it to be spot on then you cant beat trying it out before you go to the bank.

 

Its worth taking the time to do it I think because you will not have to waste valuable fishing time on the bank.

[suecharge]

Thanks all for your replies...I only kind of understand these charts but get the drift about adding until you get it right before going fishing. I was using a 4gm balsa float with 5 x 0.4g BBs ...thats the only thing I know !!! I figured if I used a 3gm float I would neede 5 x 0.3g....hmm??

For large wagglers of 3 grams and over I always use olivettes.

 

These are a longer shape and are bought in their grams sizes.

 

You could put a 2.5 gram on your float rig at wherever you would want the bulk weight to be (maybe 18inches from hook) and a few dropper shot below this. Usually for me no8s or no10s.

 

You may also find your float rated at 3 grams takes 4grams. This is not uncommon. If so you can add shot near your olivette or better still change olivette to a larger one.

 

I find the less shot on the line the better as you get less tangles. Also the olivette is a better shape to avoid tangles.

 

When stillwater waggler fishing on large waters or in poor conditions I will go up to a 10gram waggler. I often fish 8 grams. When properly shotted down its just as sensitive but you will gain by having much better control with the extra weight and less effort to cast the distance you require.

 

Most tangles arise through casting into wind and espescially when using too light a float so you are pushing it out too hard.

 

 

 

Regards

 

John

[chavender]

I have a 3g waggler float and I have no idea what size shot or how many to use...getting confused looking up conversion charts. Currently I have some No1 and No 2 shots. can anyone advise please.

 

you probably need a wider veriety of shot sizes ,you might want to invest in a multi-shot dispenser pack

 

 

 

these have a veriety of standard split shot sizes ,this makes shotting floats easier ,and with wagglers you need the bulk of the shots weight (2/3's) set at the base of the float as locking shot (hold the float in position) the rest of the shot control how your bait falls through the water .

 

 

as a rough guide : in your case ,a three gram float would require around 2g of locking shot ,closest convieniant shot size is AAA=0.8g X 2 (one 1mm either side of the floats eye (or float adaptor if you have one) to lock it into position) totaling 1.6g and leaving 1.4g as dropping shots ,3Xbb shots (bb=0.4g) =1.2g ,leaving 0.2g which conveiniantly = 1XNo4(0.2g) as the tele tale shot ( shot closest too hook ,its position helps show shy bites better )

 

shotting patten for a waggler can be of two forms strung out (slow dropping) or bulk shotting (faster dropping)

 

once you know the depth of the water (plumbing up) ,you then devide the length of line from your float too your hook into thirds ,two thirds/1 third split

 

the top two thirds is where the bulk of your shotting goes (heaviest/biggest shots=BB shots) ,these can be spaced out ,with even gaps between them (strung out ,slow bait drop) or as a tight group at the start of the last third of line (bulk shotting ,faster bait drop)

 

 

 

 

the last third of line ,is where you put your smaller shot/s ,(finer control over the baits final fall too the bottom) ,and by moving the final shot up / down will show shy bites better ,you'll need too experiment on the day too see how the fish want it .

 

these shotting patterns ,can be made more sensative by using smaller shots that ad up to the ones used (if you ½ the weight you double the number of shots used and shorten the spacings)

 

i hope this helps

Edited July 21, 2011 by chavender

[suecharge]

Much appreciated thanks so much. Clear now

 

you probably need a wider veriety of shot sizes ,you might want to invest in a multi-shot dispenser pack

 

 

 

these have a veriety of standard split shot sizes ,this makes shotting floats easier ,and with wagglers you need the bulk of the shots weight (2/3's) set at the base of the float as locking shot (hold the float in position) the rest of the shot control how your bait falls through the water .

 

 

as a rough guide : in your case ,a three gram float would require around 2g of locking shot ,closest convieniant shot size is AAA=0.8g X 2 (one 1mm either side of the floats eye (or float adaptor if you have one) to lock it into position) totaling 1.6g and leaving 1.4g as dropping shots ,3Xbb shots (bb=0.4g) =1.2g ,leaving 0.2g which conveiniantly = 1XNo4(0.2g) as the tele tale shot ( shot closest too hook ,its position helps show shy bites better )

 

shotting patten for a waggler can be of two forms strung out (slow dropping) or bulk shotting (faster dropping)

 

once you know the depth of the water (plumbing up) ,you then devide the length of line from your float too your hook into thirds ,two thirds/1 third split

 

the top two thirds is where the bulk of your shotting goes (heaviest/biggest shots=BB shots) ,these can be spaced out ,with even gaps between them (strung out ,slow bait drop) or as a tight group at the start of the last third of line (bulk shotting ,faster bait drop)

 

 

 

 

the last third of line ,is where you put your smaller shot/s ,(finer control over the baits final fall too the bottom) ,and by moving the final shot up / down will show shy bites better ,you'll need too experiment on the day too see how the fish want it .

 

these shotting patterns ,can be made more sensative by using smaller shots that ad up to the ones used (if you ½ the weight you double the number of shots used and shorten the spacings)

 

i hope this helps