St Alban's Head

[SpeciMan]

I've been wanting to fish St Albans Head and Chapmans Pool for some time now.

 

Last Sunday I finally headed out for a few days fishing, camping and general R&R

 

I launched from Kimmeridge at about noon in the midday heat. By chance, met Aidy (Shy Tangler) and his missus at the slipway, they were off 'west' for the day.

 

My kayak was fully loaded and I wondered if I would fit everything in.

 

4 dry bags (albeit smallish ones), a C-tug trolley, 2 * 4litre water carriers (Ortleib - very good, recommended), food, bitter (Simon Everetts got me on the John Smiths!) & fishing gear came with me. Despite my best efforts the Scupper didn't sink and I left the busy slipway behind.

 

The photo shows a quiet Kimmeridge although there were a number of boats waiting to launch with the incoming tide.

 

I didn't take many pics on this trip relying on my cameras internal memory as my card is faulty

 

Once out of Kimmeridge Bay I headed east staying close inshore so I could recce the coastline. As it was coming up to high tide there was no surf over the ledges, the tide was weak and wind very light making for an easy paddle despite a laden kayak.

 

I found two sources of freshwater on the way up to Chapmans Pool which were noted for the future

 

Being a sunny weekend, there were many boats at anchor in Chapmans Pool.

 

 

I didn't stay long - I wanted to see if the source of freshwater I'd seen a few months back was still there & if the camping spots were being used - the water had dried up but the camp spots were free.

 

I carried on up towards St Albans Head.....

 

...found a small beach just before the headland & decided I'd base myself there. On arrival a deer was on a ridge near the beach...

 

...who let me come quite close until I landed.

 

There was a small stream trickling down some reeds onto the beach. It reminded me of a mangrove filtration system sometimes added to a marine aquarium. I shared this watering hole (for washing and cleaning) with the deer for the next two days.

 

After resting (sunbathing) on the beach for a while & checking my tidal flow chart (more on this later), I tackled up & headed to St Albans Head for a spot of feathering. Mackeral was my target and I was soon into one once I hit the turbulent waters of the Head.

 

By the time I had dispatched the mackeral and dropped the feathers back down again the current had taken me on a fast ride 400 yards towards Durlston Head....whooops

 

Nae bother though - I ferryglided across the current & once inshore took the eddy back up to the Head. I did this a couple of times catching pollack on the next few drops - the largest being a good 2lbs & I lost a clunker of a fish. I also had a double shot.

 

That was my fishing done for the day, I didn't plan to spend countless hours on the water so headed back to the beach and made camp.

 

3 kayakers passed me later that evening and headed to the camping spot at Chapmans Pool. I was pleased I didn't camp there as space is limited.

 

Preferring to camp on the shore & hoping that an unpredicted swell wouldn't swamp the tent with the rising tide in the early hours of the morning I got away with it for the next two nights

 

The following morning I called the coastguard to check the weather.

 

With settled conditions forecast for the next 24 hours I decided to stay in this area. As its at least 4 miles either way to the nearest get out point it would be easy to become stranded down here if the weather turns nasty. I wasn't planning an extended stay!

 

The flooding tide started early afternoon so a leisurely morning was spent reading, sunbathing and mooching around.

 

I didn't see a human being all day, but did spot kestrels, a buzzard, raven and the deer (which sneaked past me at dawn to take a drink from the watering hole leaving fresh footprints in the mud).

 

Early afternoon I was back on the water for a few hours.

 

There were a few pot buoys in the area including some very close to the Head & a reasonable distance out.

 

However, the current and short length of their attached rope meant the buoys were partially submerged - I didn't tie up to one and there was no way I would drop anchor here. A few more drifts in the eddy (now on the western side of the head) saw me into more pollack.

 

I find the taste of pollack quite bland so kept only a few small ones for the evenings adventure.

 

I found another pot buoy closer inshore, out of the main flow and hooked up to this for a while. I had a line out for the tope, and also had a good bite on the squid although got snagged on the retrieve which brought the session to an end.

 

I paddled back to my spot and made camp. At about 11pm the double low tide had finished its business and I headed out on the yak to try for conger. My mark was only a few hundred yards out from the shore & there was little if no tide.

 

However, mist descended from the nearby hills & I was quickly surrounded by sea fog. This made for a very eerie, albeit short session and I paddled back inshore.

 

I didn't feel comfortable being out there on my own targetting conger, not being able to see camp with no one around for miles

 

I had to turn the lights out on the paddle back as the bright light in the fog was blinding. Once near the shoreline the reflective tape on my tent helped me find it against the dark backdrop of the ridge I'd camped under.

 

The following morning saw more R&R whilst waiting for the tide to turn

 

I planned to take the flooding tide further east along the Jurassic coastline and up to Swanage.

 

I caught glance of a twitcher who was perched on a ridge a few hundred yards above peering down through his binoculars. Later on that morning we got talking and he mentioned there were Peregrine Falcon chicks in the area and advised where to look as I rounded the Head later on that day. I didn't spot the nest. However I like to think I saw a Peregrine in flight but can't be sure

 

Before launching I called the coast observation hut at St Albans Head to check that I had got the tide times right

 

I also called the hut further along at Peveril Point to let them know I'd be passing through later that day. The tides in this area are complicated. Due to the geographical nature of this coastline, inshore west of St Albans there is a double low tide and east there is a double high tide.

 

The plan was to drift the 4 mile section of coastline with a redgill on a Portland rig or to use feathers. However once round the headland & on the tidal conveyer belt I aborted fishing and just paddled down with the tide enjoying the unique coastline along there. A force 3-4 westerly wind was behind me and the swell and clapotis formed from the waves crashing against the nearby cliffs meant my cockpit got soaked on more than one occassion!

 

This section was over before it had started and I was soon past Durlston Head (didn't see any dolpins unfortunately), Peveril Point (no overfalls at that stage) and into Swanage.

 

After a tasty burger & chips from a seaside vendor I was back in the saddle and headed up towards Old Harry. The wind at this point had increased and the Scupper handled poorly - I'm sure a rudder would have helped - the extra weight in the hull was a factor and upon landing I found I had taken some water on board (not loads but enough to affect the handling I think).

 

At Old Harry I stopped for a rest...

 

...and decided to push on with the flooding tide up to Poole Harbour.

 

In the harbour I found a quiet spot to camp in lee of the wind and was greeted by another deer. After setting up the tent I called the coastguard for the weather forecast and Wednesday was thought to be unsettled.

 

The morning certainly wasn't - I was woken about 6am by the heat of the sun on my tent and there was no wind outside. After breakfast I drifted the entrance to Poole Harbour for an hour or so and had no bites. By midday I was at the pickup point ready to come back.

 

----------------------------------------------------------------

 

Next time I go kayak camping there will be a few changes most to reduce weight.

 

I won't take:

 

- a trolley unless I really have to (at least 10lbs saved)

- a 1.5kg anchor & will instead rely on pot buoys and drift chutes or if pushed a tiny .75kg anchor with no chain (at least 5lbs saved)

- a fishfinder- becoming less useful for me as I have a detailed chartplotter a fraction of the weight & got by without it - at least 7lbs saved (including cabling and batteries)

 

Thats a 22lbs weight saving already.

 

----------------------------------------------------------------

 

For anyone wanting to fish or paddle the St Alban's Head area (or Portland, Lulworth Banks, Adament Shoal etc) I recommend, 'Tidal Streams Between Portland Bill and St Alban's Head' by Peter Bruce.

 

This thin booklet printed on waterproof tear resistant paper covers the areas from Portland Bill to St Albans Head.

 

Despite the handwritten/sketched appearance the tidal data has been gathered from a number of reputable sources including BP who have shared their tidal data for this area. It's also used by the watchmen in the Observation Hut.

 

I bought my copy from Piplers, near the lifting bridge at Poole. I now need to find something similar for the Isle of Wight.

Edited June 14, 2007 by SpeciMan

[Martin Hurst]

top stuff Specimen!! Sounds like a great trip.

[fatsimon]

Fantastic report and pics specimen

well done would love to try something like that one day

[Devon Exile]

I've been wanting to fish St Albans Head and Chapmans Pool for some time now.

 

Last Sunday I finally headed out for a few days fishing, camping and general R&R

 

I launched from Kimmeridge at about noon in the midday heat. By chance, met Aidy (Shy Tangler) and his missus at the slipway, they were off 'west' for the day.

 

My kayak was fully loaded and I wondered if I would fit everything in.

 

4 dry bags (albeit smallish ones), a C-tug trolley, 2 * 4litre water carriers (Ortleib - very good, recommended), food, bitter (Simon Everetts got me on the John Smiths!) & fishing gear came with me. Despite my best efforts the Scupper didn't sink and I left the busy slipway behind.

 

The photo shows a quiet Kimmeridge although there were a number of boats waiting to launch with the incoming tide.

 

I didn't take many pics on this trip relying on my cameras internal memory as my card is faulty

 

Once out of Kimmeridge Bay I headed east staying close inshore so I could recce the coastline. As it was coming up to high tide there was no surf over the ledges, the tide was weak and wind very light making for an easy paddle despite a laden kayak.

 

I found two sources of freshwater on the way up to Chapmans Pool which were noted for the future

 

Being a sunny weekend, there were many boats at anchor in Chapmans Pool.

 

 

I didn't stay long - I wanted to see if the source of freshwater I'd seen a few months back was still there & if the camping spots were being used - the water had dried up but the camp spots were free.

 

I carried on up towards St Albans Head.....

 

...found a small beach just before the headland & decided I'd base myself there. On arrival a deer was on a ridge near the beach...

 

...who let me come quite close until I landed.

 

There was a small stream trickling down some reeds onto the beach. It reminded me of a mangrove filtration system sometimes added to a marine aquarium. I shared this watering hole (for washing and cleaning) with the deer for the next two days.

 

After resting (sunbathing) on the beach for a while & checking my tidal flow chart (more on this later), I tackled up & headed to St Albans Head for a spot of feathering. Mackeral was my target and I was soon into one once I hit the turbulent waters of the Head.

 

By the time I had dispatched the mackeral and dropped the feathers back down again the current had taken me on a fast ride 400 yards towards Durlston Head....whooops

 

Nae bother though - I ferryglided across the current & once inshore took the eddy back up to the Head. I did this a couple of times catching pollack on the next few drops - the largest being a good 2lbs & I lost a clunker of a fish. I also had a double shot.

 

That was my fishing done for the day, I didn't plan to spend countless hours on the water so headed back to the beach and made camp.

 

3 kayakers passed me later that evening and headed to the camping spot at Chapmans Pool. I was pleased I didn't camp there as space is limited.

 

Preferring to camp on the shore & hoping that an unpredicted swell wouldn't swamp the tent with the rising tide in the early hours of the morning I got away with it for the next two nights

 

The following morning I called the coastguard to check the weather.

 

With settled conditions forecast for the next 24 hours I decided to stay in this area. As its at least 4 miles either way to the nearest get out point it would be easy to become stranded down here if the weather turns nasty. I wasn't planning an extended stay!

 

The flooding tide started early afternoon so a leisurely morning was spent reading, sunbathing and mooching around.

 

I didn't see a human being all day, but did spot kestrels, a buzzard, raven and the deer (which sneaked past me at dawn to take a drink from the watering hole leaving fresh footprints in the mud).

 

Early afternoon I was back on the water for a few hours.

 

There were a few pot buoys in the area including some very close to the Head & a reasonable distance out.

 

However, the current and short length of their attached rope meant the buoys were partially submerged - I didn't tie up to one and there was no way I would drop anchor here. A few more drifts in the eddy (now on the western side of the head) saw me into more pollack.

 

I find the taste of pollack quite bland so kept only a few small ones for the evenings adventure.

 

I found another pot buoy closer inshore, out of the main flow and hooked up to this for a while. I had a line out for the tope, and also had a good bite on the squid although got snagged on the retrieve which brought the session to an end.

 

I paddled back to my spot and made camp. At about 11pm the double low tide had finished its business and I headed out on the yak to try for conger. My mark was only a few hundred yards out from the shore & there was little if no tide.

 

However, mist descended from the nearby hills & I was quickly surrounded by sea fog. This made for a very eerie, albeit short session and I paddled back inshore.

 

I didn't feel comfortable being out there on my own targetting conger, not being able to see camp with no one around for miles

 

I had to turn the lights out on the paddle back as the bright light in the fog was blinding. Once near the shoreline the reflective tape on my tent helped me find it against the dark backdrop of the ridge I'd camped under.

 

The following morning saw more R&R whilst waiting for the tide to turn

 

I planned to take the flooding tide further east along the Jurassic coastline and up to Swanage.

 

I caught glance of a twitcher who was perched on a ridge a few hundred yards above peering down through his binoculars. Later on that morning we got talking and he mentioned there were Peregrine Falcon chicks in the area and advised where to look as I rounded the Head later on that day. I didn't spot the nest. However I like to think I saw a Peregrine in flight but can't be sure

 

Before launching I called the coast observation hut at St Albans Head to check that I had got the tide times right

 

I also called the hut further along at Peveril Point to let them know I'd be passing through later that day. The tides in this area are complicated. Due to the geographical nature of this coastline, inshore west of St Albans there is a double low tide and east there is a double high tide.

 

The plan was to drift the 4 mile section of coastline with a redgill on a Portland rig or to use feathers. However once round the headland & on the tidal conveyer belt I aborted fishing and just paddled down with the tide enjoying the unique coastline along there. A force 3-4 westerly wind was behind me and the swell and clapotis formed from the waves crashing against the nearby cliffs meant my cockpit got soaked on more than one occassion!

 

This section was over before it had started and I was soon past Durlston Head (didn't see any dolpins unfortunately), Peveril Point (no overfalls at that stage) and into Swanage.

 

After a tasty burger & chips from a seaside vendor I was back in the saddle and headed up towards Old Harry. The wind at this point had increased and the Scupper handled poorly - I'm sure a rudder would have helped - the extra weight in the hull was a factor and upon landing I found I had taken some water on board (not loads but enough to affect the handling I think).

 

At Old Harry I stopped for a rest...

 

...and decided to push on with the flooding tide up to Poole Harbour.

 

In the harbour I found a quiet spot to camp in lee of the wind and was greeted by another deer. After setting up the tent I called the coastguard for the weather forecast and Wednesday was thought to be unsettled.

 

The morning certainly wasn't - I was woken about 6am by the heat of the sun on my tent and there was no wind outside. After breakfast I drifted the entrance to Poole Harbour for an hour or so and had no bites. By midday I was at the pickup point ready to come back.

 

----------------------------------------------------------------

 

Next time I go kayak camping there will be a few changes most to reduce weight.

 

I won't take:

 

- a trolley unless I really have to (at least 10lbs saved)

- a 1.5kg anchor & will instead rely on pot buoys and drift chutes or if pushed a tiny .75kg anchor with no chain (at least 5lbs saved)

- a fishfinder- becoming less useful for me as I have a detailed chartplotter a fraction of the weight & got by without it - at least 7lbs saved (including cabling and batteries)

 

Thats a 22lbs weight saving already.

 

----------------------------------------------------------------

 

For anyone wanting to fish or paddle the St Alban's Head area (or Portland, Lulworth Banks, Adament Shoal etc) I recommend, 'Tidal Streams Between Portland Bill and St Alban's Head' by Peter Bruce.

 

This thin booklet printed on waterproof tear resistant paper covers the areas from Portland Bill to St Albans Head.

 

Despite the handwritten/sketched appearance the tidal data has been gathered from a number of reputable sources including BP who have shared their tidal data for this area. It's also used by the watchmen in the Observation Hut.

 

I bought my copy from Piplers, near the lifting bridge at Poole. I now need to find something similar for the Isle of Wight.

 

Brilliant report, you really captured the spirit of adventure that a yak opens up and, like you I assume, I always think that the fishing is just one part of the whole experience! Not sure I'm confident enough yet to take on that area alone until I get more experience but it's certainly something to aim for. Maybe later in the summer when there's a forecast of high pressure and settled weather for a few days. Have you tried the coastline to the west of Kimmeridge beyond Worbarrow and on to Ringstead?

[spyro]

Sounds like you had a really great time. Great report

Cant wait to get get my yak,pick up on Saturday...

[YakDiver]

magic trip & great photos

[overrun]

Fantastic stuff Simon, a real communing with nature session.

[richi]

A real adventure,great to see you come back with a bang Simon,hats off

[nifty]

Great trip and report Simon, proper "Hugh Stoker" adventure.

[musket]

Well done Speciman.

Excellent report of something a little different

Jon.