boat repair

[noah]

How do I repair this damage on the hull. Looks like the boat was moored in a tidel area and every time the tide went out she's come to rest on stone/rock. Any ideas???

 

edit note: picture link fixed. Newt

 

[ 06. July 2005, 07:33 PM: Message edited by: Newt ]

[Sharkbyte]

Its not the Ark is it?

 

[ 06. July 2005, 06:54 PM: Message edited by: Sharkbyte ]

[noah]

Can't be the ark that managed to float

[Sharkbyte]

You have obviously heard that one before.

[noah]

My trading name is Noah's ark so you can imagine the comements i get when working on the boat

[Sharkbyte]

Lol.

 

I think you need to put infront of your original attempt to display your picture.

 

From the help he has given Elton in the past day or so, I reckon Chris Parker is the man you need to speak to Noah. As Sam Cox would say, He knows his Onions.

[noah]

Me and tecnology never get on ? :mad:

[Newt]

noah - you almost had it with the first posting.

 

Pictures you want to display directly need to have at the end.

 

Yours was missing the front so I added it and presto, a picture appeared.

[noah]

cheers newt what would we do with out you

[chris parker]

Can't really tell the extent of the damage in the photo.

 

Basic repair the same as Eltons, the difference is you are repairing a single skin laminate I think.

 

Get a grinder and cut out all the damaged area then bevel the existing sound laminate at a 12 to 1 bevel, ie if the laminate is 2mm thick the bevel should extend for 24mm from the inside to the outside. This gives the laminate something to bond to and makes a plug type repair that water pressure actually pushes in to tighten it.

 

Put a backing pad covered in Polythene inside the hole and hold it in place with chocks, clamps, sandbags etc. Start from the outside by de dusting and cleaning the area to be laminated with acetone (essential for a good bond)Cut patches the size of the hole to build up the thickness and laminate in place with catalysed resin. when you are 1mm below the final finished surface use a pigmented gellcoat to finish off the repair. A tip is to put the gellcoat on a sheet of clingfilm, stretch the film over the repair area, the idea is not to get any lumps and creases in it. A sheet of thin acrylic is usefull on large flat areas. The idea is that when you remove the clingfilm the gellcoat requires very little sanding to leave an invisible repair. If you have to sand it start with 180 grade w&d paper used wet with a drop of fairy liquid in the water. Work up through the grades to a 900 and finis off with a cutting polish like Farecla.

 

On the inside of the hull clean back an area round the repair after removing the backing and rough it up with 40 grade sandpaper, now you know why the poythene. Make the patches about 3 or 4 inches larger than the damaged area and tear the patches to shape. Use a about 3 or 4 to reinforce the patch and then a layer of surface tissue and finish with flowcoat to match the inside of the boat. By tearing the mat for the inside patches you will aviod sharp edges and the repair patch will blend in.

 

Believe me it is a lot harder to type the instructions than to do the repair.