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crack off blues


rufus

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Been practising casting out on grass just recently and doing off the ground style managed to easily increase my distance by 50% or more....trouble is that now the problem of crack-offs has reared it's ugly, dangerous head.

 

I never had these happen before with my old overhead thump style but the big power step- up that the off ground style gives is causing headaches. Is this just a phase that is usual when power is increased by a wide margin...something that evens out as you get used to the style or am I doing something very wrong?

 

The line seems to be parting at the leader knot somewhere close to the reel..of course an overun is there when I look at the reel but everything happens so bloody fast I cant tell if the overun is causing the problem or if the overun is caused by the problem! There is no crack! by the way, just a silent parting of the leader knot and an invisible lead and trace sailing away at lethal speed to god knows where!.

 

I'm using a 6500c3 with level wind with at least 6 or 7 turns of leader on the spool....suppose the level wind could be the root of the problem...what do you think?

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Rufus, power casts and level winds don't go to-gether,Abu make CT cages for their 6500's, you just have to transfer the pieces over from your reel simple and cheap. as to your SILENT crack-offs I'd check out the leader knot it sounds iffy,

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fishy1:

Rufus, power casts and level winds don't go to-gether,Abu make CT cages for their 6500's, you just have to transfer the pieces over from your reel simple and cheap. as to your SILENT crack-offs I'd check out the leader knot it sounds iffy,

Then have a look here:

http://www.marinews.com/Albright-Knot-221.php

https://www.harbourbridgelakes.com/


Pisces mortui solum cum flumine natant

You get more bites on Anglers Net

 

 

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Hello Rufus.

It may be your leader knot, or it may be that you`re not using a long enough leader?

When you`ve got your line laid out at the start of the cast, you`ll still need at least 4-5 turns around the reel? Have you got that much leader on?

Any knot will be a couple of pounds under the breaking strain of the weakest line? You therefore have to ensure, that when you cast, the leader knot is still under a few turns on the reel? Otherwise you`ll do a spasor of 10yrs ago.

I used to get all the casters around me ducking!! They were sure someone was shooting at us. I use 15lb mainline + 20ft of 50lb leader for a 4o/z weight? Make sure you trim the `snots` real close to the knots!

Paul.

We don`t use J`s anymore!!

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I'm using twice the rod length of leader, so that would be 26 foot of line with plenty of turns on the spool. 50lb leader to 15lb main line.

 

I think the silent crack-off is due to the break happening at the knot and so close to the spool. Like I said I've never had this happen before no matter how much power I put into the cast but have heard plenty of other anglers crack-offs that have occured in flight and they make a sharp crack that can be heard from the next pitch. I've tested my knot and it's very very strong but if any knot jams in the level wind then what else could occur but knot failure? The leader is not going to break at 50lbs BS so the knot compresses instantly under great load and cuts through itself , hence the silent parting of line. I examined the end of a leader retrieved at low tide Friday last and it was mangled, cut up by the main line.

 

The trouble with improving your cast is that the change is permanent..the training ensures that loads more power is available on every cast. Even my overhead cast has become more fluid and powerful! which is a good thing in the long run...I suppose I have learn to harness this new found power and the tackle will have to be refined to cope. Soon as I can afford one I'll buy a CT mag or similar...even if the knot clears the levelwind (which it does 9 times out of 10) then the gears of the mechanism must cut distance by a substantial amount, I heard 15% or more. With the CT frame two problems are cured in one shot.

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Take care, as the level-wind will restrict the hold you have on the spool. CT cages are designed to get more hold with the thumb, extra power can see the spool pulled from the thumb grip with a level-wind (not enough grip). Results can be very dangerous, only total control will help keep casting safe.

 

Dont go for maximum power if you cant control the reel!

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But once you get the feel of it and want to get yet more distance, try lubing bearings and other odd parts with Rocket Fuel. Yellow is perfect for the 6500s and on to Tournament later maybe.

 

Rocket Fuel and while this is a US site I think, since the stuff was developed by a UK fella, gotta be sources over there.

" My choices in life were either to be a piano player in a whore house or a politician. And to tell the truth, there's hardly any difference!" - Harry Truman, 33rd US President

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Guest Geoff Carlin

Dear Rufus, Off the ground is about equal to pendulum in terms of getting distance in everyday beachcasting - tournament casting is a different situation. Use shock-leader, minimum 50lbs; some reccommend 10lb line strength for every oz of lead, there may be a metric formula but I do not know it. Thus a 6 oz lead would require 60 lb shocker. A level wind multiplier is no use for this form of power casting, the knot between shocker and main line can catch in the level wind mechanism (massive overrun resulting) or be damaged leading to a future crack off and possible overrun, though if you are getting overruns even with a successful cast it means your line lay is faulty or your reel is not tuned properly. Lay the line like thread on a bobbin - even the best levelwind can deviate from this! Get a multiplier with a braking system and without a level wind, if tuned there should be no need for thumbing the spool during the cast, see what I had to do in my youth!. Do not look at the reel, follow the lead, if you start looking at the reel you have lost control of the cast! I use the Abu elite for light beach work (loaded with 18lb line and 50lb shock leader) and the Abu 7000 for heavier ground with 35lb right through, shocker only used if distance is important (rare). I use a 14ft Grays Apollo mostly and this beast can match the best casters on the beach with an off the ground style; only disadvantage is that bites from small fish at distance do not register on this rod. I like this style as I think it is safer if there is a crack off while casting, with the lead following a tangent that I have decided rather than anywhere along the arc of the pendulum. You can use a fixed spool for off the ground quite nicely, but I prefer multipliers - no bailing arm to unaccountably flip over while casting. With any reel make your shocker about 4 to 6 feet longer than your rod length and, with the multiplier, make sure the knot is sitting flush on the right hand side of the spool prior to casting (left if left handed) to avoid possible cut thumb as the line comes flying off. The knot used is crucial, I use a half hitch on the shocker with a modified half blood connecting the main line, carefully tightened and tensioned with lots of spit, with loose ends totally pared down. Look at it, if you do not like it, abandon and start again. You get a feel and a eye for when a knot is no good. Check your rod rings for possible damage prior to starting, any crack or defect is another place for the knot to catch.

Finally enjoy your casting, pleasure and confidence in the cast will lead to a smooth and predictable increase in distance. Good smooth technique is always superior to "wellying" it.

Also remember that fish sometimes feed close in and that it is easy, when casting off the ground, to overcast the fish! This is not sexist or ageist but where do you think the ladies and juniors generally catch their fish? Regards, Geoff.

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