Shock leader knot

[Anthony78]

I've kitted myself out with a new spod set up and was wondering what would be the best leader knot to use? I've seen the leader knot used for connecting thick mono leaders to braid or thin mono which involves tying one overhand knot in the thicker leader and tying a grinner knot above that knot with the thinner braid/mono.

I will be using a Diawa tapered leader which runs from 30lb down to 12lb and I will be connecting this to 8lb Diawa sensor main line. Which knot should I use??

 

Thanks in advance

 

Ant

[Si...]

For different thicknesses of mono I use the "Quick shore leader knot" which is the one you described.

 

 

For braid to mono I use the Mahin knot, bit fiddly to tie, but its never let me down.

 

 

As for virtually identical thicknesses I would either use a back to back grinner knot or the 4 turn water knot

 

[Anthony78]

For different thicknesses of mono I use the "Quick shore leader knot" which is the one you described.

 

 

For braid to mono I use the Mahin knot, bit fiddly to tie, but its never let me down.

 

 

As for virtually identical thicknesses I would either use a back to back grinner knot or the 4 turn water knot

 

 

 

Hi Si,

Thank you very much. That's a brilliant reply .

I think I will use the back to back grinner but I do have another question: although I know I need to ensure the knot is at the back of the reel when casting I'm very worried about having a knot on my spool which could potentialy catch up. Would I damage the lines at all if I trimmed the tag ends right down and gave it a coating of super glue to ensure it runs smoothly off the reel?? Or am I being over cautious?

 

Thanks again.

 

Ant

Edited May 15, 2010 by Anthony78

[Si...]

I think its mostly down to preference.

 

I know a lot of anglers that always use superglue on their knots, however I have never used it and if the knot is tied properly, you shouldn't need it in my opinion.

 

I have found that leaving slightly longer tag ends than the shorter ones due to the short ones being inflexible and more prone to catching than the more flexible long ones.

 

The way that I have the knot on the reel is different to what most people would have, I generally do not buy the "pre-made" leaders or tapered leaders, I prefer to use strong line, such as Amnesia or krystons quicksilver.

I thread the leader through the eyes on the rod with enough for 3-5 turns on the reel and a 6ft drop from the tip of the rod.

When getting ready to cast, I wind the leader on the reel, but keeping the knot approx 2rds from the bottom of the spool, then winding the 3-5 turns above that. I think that doing it this way prevents any chance of the leader "bedding" into the bottom of the spool and gives a smoother flow of line/leader fron the spool.

I have tried it as you have described, but opted for my own way due to the leader slightly bedding in the base of the line on the spool and snagging.

The reason for it bedding in I think is due to the difference in tension on the line due to the way its spooled, where it goes from moving down the spool then up the spool, this I believe makes a slight "soft" area in the line and can cause problems when using shock leaders.

[Anthony78]

I think its mostly down to preference.

 

I know a lot of anglers that always use superglue on their knots, however I have never used it and if the knot is tied properly, you shouldn't need it in my opinion.

 

I have found that leaving slightly longer tag ends than the shorter ones due to the short ones being inflexible and more prone to catching than the more flexible long ones.

 

The way that I have the knot on the reel is different to what most people would have, I generally do not buy the "pre-made" leaders or tapered leaders, I prefer to use strong line, such as Amnesia or krystons quicksilver.

I thread the leader through the eyes on the rod with enough for 3-5 turns on the reel and a 6ft drop from the tip of the rod.

When getting ready to cast, I wind the leader on the reel, but keeping the knot approx 2rds from the bottom of the spool, then winding the 3-5 turns above that. I think that doing it this way prevents any chance of the leader "bedding" into the bottom of the spool and gives a smoother flow of line/leader fron the spool.

I have tried it as you have described, but opted for my own way due to the leader slightly bedding in the base of the line on the spool and snagging.

The reason for it bedding in I think is due to the difference in tension on the line due to the way its spooled, where it goes from moving down the spool then up the spool, this I believe makes a slight "soft" area in the line and can cause problems when using shock leaders.

 

Once again thanks very much for the great reply. I think I will have to get out there and give both methods a try. I don't normally superglue my knots but then any knot I've had on my spool before has been buried beneath 100 yrds of line .

 

Thanks again

 

Ant

[Dick Dastardly]

Cant add anything much really to what Si has said.

[Si...]

Cant add anything much really to what Si has said.

 

Bloody hell Budgie, I'll take that as a compliment lol

[RobStubbs]

Cant add anything much really to what Si has said.

ECHO that. What Simon does is exactly what I do, no glue, and tapered leaders are more hassle (and pricey) IMHO. I served my apprenticeship sea fishing so used leaders all the time and I never had a problem with them catching up. With the thick mono tied to thin, I'd trim the tags a fair bit and certainly would only have a couple mm, in the thick. For my carp fishing leaders I use 25 or 30lb daiwa sealine, which is ample - certainly with my casting.

 

Rob.