Which line?

[chrislee342]

Hi all. Looking to renew my line, both my line for my float fishing and my feeder fishing on my quivertip.

Just wondering if anybody rates any of the lines out there and could advise on what is best to use for both situations?

 

All advice is good advice so thanks in advance.

 

Chris

[Phone]

Chris,

 

Have a look at the recent thread started by Sportsman in this section titled "sinking line". It's on the next page or two.

 

This is an often discussed subject.

 

Phone

[davedave]

Hi there.

 

I recently bought some drennan series 7, which is top of the range stuff, it had very thin diameter for the breaking strain, but was prone to tangles and kinks. Although outdated I don't think you can go wrong with maxima. Daiwa sensor is also good stuff.

 

Dave

[Andy_1984]

im a Maxima Chameleon convert. i havnt tried the heavier stuff over 10lb which i hear doesnt settle very well but love the 1lb stuff for hook lengths and anythjing above for mainline.

 

other than that ive also been really enjoying Greys g-tech super mainline. nice n cheap with a low diameter.

 

Then theres daiwa sensor which i would never fault, a fantastic budget line with TONS to spare.

 

as for your quivertip my mate Andy Macfarlane has been using some sort of daiwa sinking feeder braid he rates quite highly. 8lb i think he's been using.

[RUDD]

Daiwa sensor for general ledger work or drennan super specialist

For the waggler maxima or drennan float fish.

[Phone]

All,

 

Something that never gets mentioned and I think is important for the casual angler about fishing line. NEVER buy the most expensive line in a brand name - - say Sufix, Stren or Maxima (most major manufacters actually).

 

They will be IGFA tested lines. Using exactly calibrated and tested fishing lines is important when claiming IGFA records as these lines then have to stand up to the IGFA’s test criterion. Such lines must possess the highest possible breaking strain for their diameter, but in no case are they allowed to exceed the required line class breaking strain. (edit: i.e. 1lb line MUST break at 1lb.)

 

Unless you want an IGFA record never buy IGFA line. You won't get very much "bang for your buck" with calibrated line.

 

Phone

 

OHH, the most complete technical description of fishing line I have ever seen was by a German company. Stroff or something like that. In true German fashion it will confuse you but all the "facts" are there in detail. Does Stroff(?) still make fishing line? It was good stuff (quality control was excellent) in that every roll was the same.

Edited January 9, 2013 by Phone

[Steve Burke]

Phone, we have almost no IGFA rated lines in the UK as almost no coarse anglers know about IGFA records. Of those who do, many won't entertain going after such records as they consider playing a fish a long time on a light line is actually unsporting. For those who don't know, IGFA lines are guaranteed not to break above the stated breaking strain.

 

However I agree with you about the big name brands. There's only a few manufacturers of line in the world and, having been in the tackle trade, I can confirm that many lines are identical. For instance Drennan Specimen Plus seems to be identical to Maxima. The only difference I can fathom out is how it's rated, with for instance 4lb Maxima being the same as 5lb Drennan Plus. The Drennan line is also quite a bit less expensive!

 

There's no overall best line - it depends on what you want it for. This is because all lines are compromises. For instance if you increase suppleness (which means the bait behaves more naturally, plus you can cast further), all other things being equal you reduce the abrasion resistance.

 

Jim Gibbinson did a load of tests a few years back on many of the popular lines. The full results appeared in Carpworld magazine with a cut down version in his book "Gravel Pit Carping", followed by a summary in an article here on Angler's Net. For the latter go to http://www.anglersnet.co.uk/authors/jim09.htm.

 

The mono I use most myself is Pro Gold. For why and a bit more on choosing line see my review at: http://www.anglersnet.co.uk/tackle-and-bait-reviews/progold.html.

Edited January 9, 2013 by Steve Burke

[Phone]

Steve,

 

Guess that's why it's not talked about.

 

Phone

[RUDD]

The Tacklebox in Dartford used to have the results of various line tests in their Catalouge with regards to diameters and breaking strains that had some interesting results.

From what I remember most lines broke above the stated breaking strain.

[Steve Burke]

The Tacklebox in Dartford used to have the results of various line tests in their Catalouge with regards to diameters and breaking strains that had some interesting results.

From what I remember most lines broke above the stated breaking strain.

 

They did indeed. In fact many lines break above their stated breaking strain, whilst others break below.

 

A lot of this is down to marketing. For instance the makers/distributors can then claim their 12lb line is so strong it breaks at 20lbs. Of course it's really 20lb line in the first place! What's more it has the diameter of 20lb line!

 

Conversely, sometimes it's done the other way round to make a line of a stated breaking strain appear extra thin.

 

Sometimes the same supplier rates lines differently. This is so for instance with Gold Label Tackle with Pro Gold and Pro Clear, both excellent lines. At least Gold Label say so in their blurb, unlike some other firms perhaps.

 

EFTA (the European Fishing Tackle Association) started testing lines and found a wide variation. They were more concerned with lines that were weaker than stated. They then gave their seal of approval to those that passed their tests.

 

The problem is that their tests were done on dry, unknotted lines, as were those by the Tackle Box. Nylon monofilament lines are weaker when wet and the amount varies from brand to brand. The "knot stength" of lines also varies from line to line.

 

So these tests don't tell the full story. However they're a very useful starting point.

Edited January 10, 2013 by Steve Burke