Lures?

[Steve Burke]

steve he does give an indication of the waters he will be fishing

 

I will mainly be fishing a small river(quite snaggy in places)containing perch, plenty of jacks and the odd double figure pike, although may also have a go on a small resevoir from the bank

 

now what is missing as you pointed out is the depth

 

If you were to be pegged on this what would you advise for a couple of shallow lures and then the same for deeper running lures

 

ive put in what i use on smaller rivers i know the two deep running lures ive listed probaly are better known for the trolling properties they have but when casting uptreamm and trying to work a lure i havnt found anything better yet that will get me past 10 feet when reeling from A downstream position

 

Sorry if I gave the impression that my reply was aimed at you. It certainly wasn't. Long standing members will know this is a topic I often respond to in this way, although this time I was less diplomatic than usual! This was probably due to low blood sugar just before dinner that makes me grumpy. Additionally, many of us get a bee in our bonnet about some issue or other. This is mine!

 

Apart from the depth of the stream it would be useful to know what the current speed is like. Reservoirs vary tremendously from small (though often deep) farm ones to huge water supply ones. So the more we know the better here, including the species present and their typical sizes, and most importantly the depth.

 

I've found there's a certain amount of crossover between perch and pike lures, although I've never had a perch on some good pike lures and vice versa. So what may be good for one species may not be for another.

 

Ken makes a very good point about balancing the lures to the rod that you've got. It's worth bearing in mind that it's not just the power of the rod that's relevant but also its action, with different lures needing different actions to work them to best advantage.

 

Noodle, your recommendations for upstreaming on deep water on small rivers are interesting. They're not lures I've tried in this situation before, but will certainly try in the future.

[Moodyboy]

Thank you to every one has replied-Very helpful

 

Steve-It does not really go beyond 12 feet deep but varies . It also has variable speeds, part of it actually being tidal. I was going to concentrate on the deeper/ slower runs on the non tidal, and follow an hour either side of high tide in the tidal range. I am following the logic that deeper slower runs is where the bait fish will be shoaling this time of year so in theory the preds will follow.

 

I think for the time being i will leave the resovoir alone. Maybe start a new thread when I have a bit more expeirence

 

As for rods I am intending to get a Whychwood Sharpshooter Spin - 8ft, 20-50 casting weight, which from a previous thread seems to be recommended as a good general spinning rod.

Edited November 26, 2008 by Moodyboy

[Newt]

When there is a decent amount of current, you can also find preds lurking in some unexpected locations waiting on injured and confused food to swim within easy range.

 

There is an area of slack current just upstream of a solid obstruction such as a rock, tree stump, or similar. Preds will often hold position with their tail almost touching the obstruction and facing upstream. A cast or two with your lure moving downstream toward them can bring some interesting results.

 

Usually only one fish per obstruction but often a biggun who has run all the competition away. Once the current slows, the pred moves away but will be back again the next time and the location is good enough that if you catch one of them, another will take over within a fairly short time (half hour or so).

[Ken L]

If you have a balanced outfit, I'd expect that rod to be set up with a 4000 size reel and either 12lb mono, 14 - 20lb fireline or 30 - 50lb braid like Powerpro.

For fishing a deepish river, I'd start off with a few spinerbaits in the 1oz range, a selection of 4 and 5" shads and a few deep diving floating crankbaits.

At this time of year, fish them slowly and close to the bottom and hit anything that even might be a bite.

To give you some idea what I mean by "anything that even might be a bite", I fish a hole in the middle Severn that is upstreem of where I can stand. It's about 6' deep and to get a lure (a spinner) into it, I have to cast above it, let the lure drop in and sink to the bottom and then twitch it to start the blade rotating and start retrieving it barely fast enough to stay in touch with the lure and keep the blade rotating. I've had some really good bags of perch from that peg but I have yet to feel a pull on the line - I strike when I feek the blade stop going round.

[Newt]

I strike when I feek the blade stop going round.

Yet another excellent reason for using braid. With mono you might not be able to feel the spinner blade.

[Andy Macfarlane]

Unless you're using a rod with a very forgiving action, I'd advise against the use of braid for perch. Perch have delicate, dexterous mouth-parts and braid can absolutely tear those mouth-parts to shreds. On perch only waters, I far prefer to use mono only, with a soft action spinning rod. I just don't think stiff action bait-casting rods and braid should be used for perch unless you're very confident you can set the hooks without causing unnecessary damage.

[Newt]

Andy - I manage fine using braid when fishing for crappie which are nicknamed 'paper mouth' for good reason. Can't remember the last time I landed one with any mouth damage other than a tiny hole where the hook went in. I do switch to a softer action rod when targeting them but even the ones I catch on my normal lure rods seem to come out of it with all body parts intact.

 

Compared to a crappie, perch have a mouth made of steel.

 

IMO, an angler who is accustomed to using braid has adapted to the lack of stretch and automatically does most everything in a somewhat softer manner.

[noodle996]

Sorry if I gave the impression that my reply was aimed at you. It certainly wasn't. Long standing members will know this is a topic I often respond to in this way, although this time I was less diplomatic than usual! This was probably due to low blood sugar just before dinner that makes me grumpy. Additionally, many of us get a bee in our bonnet about some issue or other. This is mine!

 

Apart from the depth of the stream it would be useful to know what the current speed is like. Reservoirs vary tremendously from small (though often deep) farm ones to huge water supply ones. So the more we know the better here, including the species present and their typical sizes, and most importantly the depth.

 

I've found there's a certain amount of crossover between perch and pike lures, although I've never had a perch on some good pike lures and vice versa. So what may be good for one species may not be for another.

 

Ken makes a very good point about balancing the lures to the rod that you've got. It's worth bearing in mind that it's not just the power of the rod that's relevant but also its action, with different lures needing different actions to work them to best advantage.

 

Noodle, your recommendations for upstreaming on deep water on small rivers are interesting. They're not lures I've tried in this situation before, but will certainly try in the future.

 

s ok Steve i get slightly irritated at times by things to

 

the lads asked for info and speking personally what use is:-

well id opt for a few floating crankbaits along with some that either suspend or sink to cover a few trigger mechanisms. on top of that you may want to consider a plethora of the soft plastics available in both weighted and unweighted guises, not forgetting the humble spinner and (much maligned by me) spinner bait, oh dont forget a few topwaters in different styles

 

kiss principle bombers (who doesnt rtate these?) abu terminators they dont rise as fast as the high lows or some other crankbaits out there few chaep grubs and twintails, absolute must have just throw a couple of jig heads in from sy 1/2 ounce up to an ounce you may find you need bigger or smaller ones though dependant on the current (oh have a look for the spinner jigs/ horses heads if your going to keep them of the bottom)

 

the bigger lure were a personal think as the depthriader floats and the invader sinks gives me a fw options and other than sinking jerkbaits i havnt thought of any that work well downstream for me other than a newish (to me) storm big mac which work quite well but are discontinued

[Andy Macfarlane]

Andy - I manage fine using braid when fishing for crappie which are nicknamed 'paper mouth' for good reason. Can't remember the last time I landed one with any mouth damage other than a tiny hole where the hook went in. I do switch to a softer action rod when targeting them but even the ones I catch on my normal lure rods seem to come out of it with all body parts intact.

 

Compared to a crappie, perch have a mouth made of steel.

 

IMO, an angler who is accustomed to using braid has adapted to the lack of stretch and automatically does most everything in a somewhat softer manner.

 

Newt, did you miss the part where I wrote....

 

I just don't think stiff action bait-casting rods and braid should be used for perch unless you're very confident you can set the hooks without causing unnecessary damage.

 

Clearly, you're one of the anglers I referred to. If you wish to contradict me, at least go to the trouble of reading what I said first.

[Andy_1984]

just my personal opinion but why youse braid when fishing for perch, 4lb mono does the trick and makes a much more enjoyable fight, ive pulled in perch on braid and it just aint fun, dead wood spring to mind

Edited November 27, 2008 by Andy_1984