Why use a hooklink?

[Anderoo]

I don't know I'm afraid, I never look at the official sizes of swivels. The ones I use are the smallest ones in the shop! Small ones (micro, as Tigger says) are best as they don't weigh that much and so don't act like a bulk shot and interfere with presentation. Don't worry about breaking strains.

 

Without seeing them in real life I wouldn't like to guess what to suggest.

[DavyR]

Assuming that swivel sizes work the same way hook sizes do then the 20 might best (i.e the higher the number the smaller the hook)? Is this correct?

 

Yes, that's correct - there are some size 20 mini swivels available (post free) on here:

 

http://www.harrisonstackle.com/cgi-bin/sh0...aACC033#aACC033

 

Edit: Sorry, that should read "micro" not "mini" - and the link's not working! If you just type "swivel 20" into the search box on the Harrisons Tackle home page, you'll find a couple of different brands.

Edited December 11, 2008 by DavyR

[Andy Macfarlane]

Unless I was using a swivel, I'd perhaps opt for the uni to uni knot but tbh, when dealing with light mainlines and even lighter hook-lengths I think any old knot will do. The fact that you're using light hook-lengths means your target species are unlikely to put undue stress on your line so super strong knots are probably not required. When stepping up to hard fighting species, then good knots are a necessity.

[tincatinca]

As well as swivels, you can also use small rings. For example, sometimes when I am trotting with braid on the pin, I tie the braid to the ring using a grinner knot along with a dab of superglue. I then tie a length of 6lb mono to the ring (normally between 4 and 6 foot) which carries the float and bulk of the shot. I then attach a lighter hooklength via the loop to loop method. This works well on small rivers where the depth rarely excedes 6 feet but does give you the ability to pull for a break with minimum loss of tackle should you become snagged in any way and you can also change your hooklengths easily should you want to switch say between Roaching and Chubbing. There are several variations that can be used dependant on the conditions and what you are fishing for.

[Guest tigger]

As well as swivels, you can also use small rings. For example, sometimes when I am trotting with braid on the pin, I tie the braid to the ring using a grinner knot along with a dab of superglue. I then tie a length of 6lb mono to the ring (normally between 4 and 6 foot) which carries the float and bulk of the shot. I then attach a lighter hooklength via the loop to loop method. This works well on small rivers where the depth rarely excedes 6 feet but does give you the ability to pull for a break with minimum loss of tackle should you become snagged in any way and you can also change your hooklengths easily should you want to switch say between Roaching and Chubbing. There are several variations that can be used dependant on the conditions and what you are fishing for.

 

 

 

Don't you get a bit of line twist with that set up TT ?

[tincatinca]

Don't you get a bit of line twist with that set up TT ?

 

Not really as it is basically no different to trotting with your line straight through. The only way you could induce twist is through reeling in and the float spinning but this really would be no different to if your line was straight through to the hook.

[BRPS]

Preston Innovations sell a range of 3 mini-match swivels in sizes 20 , 22 , and 24. For all my float fishing I connect my mainline to my hooklength via a size 24 using Palomar knots. I've never had one let me down and I've landed ( unwanted ) carp over 11.5lbs without any problem. Use balanced tackle and you should be OK.

[chesters1]

talking of braid i was looking at 30lb braid yesterday ,thinner than nylon ofcourse but it mentioned when knotted the strength of the knotted bit was 10lb bs this seems like a pointless exercise in my eyes as i was going to use it for hooklenghts but two knots kinder make old fashioned nylon better???

i'v never used the stuff so will wait for a braid user to put me in my place.

its lineaf stuff (i was browsing the local garden centres range of tackle while waiting for my mrs) so probably rubbish like the rest of their display

Edited December 13, 2008 by chesters1

[Andy Macfarlane]

It's not braid.

I thought they made stuff that looked like tackle but was in fact, just prop material for films or something....lol

Honestly mate, stay well clear of anything that mob make. It's pure rubbish and I certainly wouldn't put anything with their name on my reels. Check the price of ANYTHING made by Lineaffe and you'll see it's made for the cheapest end of the market so don't expect their line to be up to much.

By the way...their line is actually a fusion line. It's not braid. If you want braid, buy something reliable like Power Pro or Cortland Spectron.

[chesters1]

It's not braid.

I thought they made stuff that looked like tackle but was in fact, just prop material for films or something....lol

Honestly mate, stay well clear of anything that mob make. It's pure rubbish and I certainly wouldn't put anything with their name on my reels. Check the price of ANYTHING made by Lineaffe and you'll see it's made for the cheapest end of the market so don't expect their line to be up to much.

By the way...their line is actually a fusion line. It's not braid. If you want braid, buy something reliable like Power Pro or Cortland Spectron.

 

i wasnt buying it just wasting time ,having seen one of their sea rigs fall apart i can see its rubbish .they sell an awfull lot of gear though perhaps some "users" dont mind

£14.99 for 250 yards is cheap bugger braid i'l stick to mono

Edited December 15, 2008 by chesters1