chavender

i used to just have 3 rods ,float rod ,quiver rod,specimem rod then came my jw avon quiver .that was fine for a while then i got into match fishing in the eighties started as a challenge between mates ended up taking it seriously my four rods turned into 10 rods ,original 4 plus 3xwaggler rods (2x13ft pair and a 15ft margin/trotting rod ,2xfeeder rods ,2xheavy feeder/method rods ,then a pole & whips joined the line up but i couldn't dedicate time to match fishing so i decided to go back to chasing fish ,all types of fish using whatever method was needed ,so i addded 4xspinning rods ,2xfly rods another pole ,barbels rods (a matched pair and a single heavier flood rod) more float/trotting rods 2x11ft ,2x13ft & two 14ft rods over the years i've replaced some with newer models but also added 2x15ft trotting rods (one i rebuilt from a combo 4 legth rod ,the other was a harrison 15ft gti float rod that i'm just putting the finishing touches to after having to refurbish a damaged handle ,and a year long wait) i have several rods i keep as loaners (my family borrow them off me ,& i aint letting them near my personal rods) & all my rods have corrisponding reels to match ,theres a couple of modern rebuilt rod projects and i have half a dozen or so cane rods ,some usable others awaiting a refurbishment. i've not done a head count latley but i beleave its still around thirty plus rods even after putting 3 or 4 loaner /spare rods into a fundraising auction trust me ,i'm a angler .you can never have too many/much tackle .or in my case hoared stuff

Gary Marshall ,makes his own agate rings and ferrells from nickle silver ,to match originals pictures on this page of the rings http://finecanerods.com/Services-offered contact details http://finecanerods.com/Contact-details

sometimes a reel on a foreign e-bay goes for less ,because they're from other country's and because centrepins arn't so revered ,but this one is overpriced but someone might give in to temptation and think what the hell ,saves waiting .its nice but no scotton long trotter .

i don't think they're fred crouch reels ,probably just modelled simular or on a modern fred crouch match aerial .as they look very much alike in someways .and apart from the foot and engraving ,there isn't much too tell the difference

they look simular to the new fred crouch aerial's (the crouch aerial are less expensive) ,& they do look well made .& they offer them as bearings reels which is intresting .i fear i may fall into temptation soon

post code lottery ,not all aldi carry all the stock ,you just need to try another postcode (zipcode) preferably one a few thousend miles eastwards

theres some tackle stuff in aldi's again on the 18th ,theres plenty of bits to choose from plus theres some suitable hiking gear that could be of use http://www.aldi.co.uk/uk/html/offers/offers_week16Thursday13.htm

best open faced reel the mitchell 410 (faster than a 300 ,no clunky dab bailarm of the match 440) never found a better modern alternative that felt as natural best closed faced reel abu 507 mk1 never found a better modern alternative ,thats felt as natural Best centrepin the browning revolver ,although i'll admit to coverting other equally nice reels

push the cone into the open end of the section then mark about 2-3mm back (dont worry it will fit inside the pole ) and trim off the excess .the tension of the elastic will pull the cone into the pole as it should compress to fit (you can always take a bit more off if needed) .

i use ultima braid (very limp line) cant remember there ratings system but its about the same as 35-40lbs power pro ,or equivelent to 10-12lbs mono ,20lbs is ok for trotting but barbel fishing especially on the trent you need more abrasive resistance and 20lbs is too thin by half .you'll need a long mono leader (15-20ft long) to guard against roll over ,where the barbel roll over the line during the fight ,20lbs braid would cut like cheese wire ,30-40lbs a hell of a lot less likley to cut into a fish but add a leader the chances are virtually eliminated.you then just need a lesser b/s hooklength that'll hopefully break before the leader or mainline does.

not me ,nothing i needed this time

what might of been the problem is that it was priviously been overtightened and be taking it apart and heating it up everything has relaxed and runs free now.

has this been the same from new ? if so the lube in the bearings may be congealed and just need warming up to revitalise the lube ,take the tetaining screw out ,use a hair dryer to warm up the top bearing as it spins ,for a few minuets to see if it free's/speeds up .otherwise you'll need to remove the bearings which are sealed and flush the old lube out then re-lube with oil.

light machine oils :watch makers oil ,sowing machine oil ,wahl clipper oil Lm grease :castrol lm grease etc adcock & leeds adjustments : just don't over tighten the retaining screw ,just nip it up rapidex : the end float will require adjusting after service the adcocks and leeds are bearings reels ,now a lot depends on age of the adcock as which type of bearing it has ,wether its a open ball race or sealed bearing .the open bearing will require greasing either out of the reel or in situ ,taking the bearings out runs the risk of missalignment issues when being re-fit ,you'll need to flush out any old grease first (a can of compressed air or a can of switch cleaner is good ,safty goggles may be advisable) then left to dry then re-lubing with grease ( minimum amount ) .sealed bearings shouldn't need re-lubing except if you suspect the original lube is rubbish ,then you'll have to remove them ,flush them out ,and then re-lube them with oil . other than the bearings its a matter of protecting the metal from corrosion ,the spindle (pin) just requires a whipe over with a oily cloth/whipe ,the ratchet if fitted will require a light coating of grease. the rapidex is different and it'll need the spindle whiping clean (lighter fluid ,white spirit ) then drying ,then a few drops of oil let run down over its surface to lubricate it ,grease the ratchet parts with a light covering of grease . after re-assembling reel ,theres a grub screw in the centre cap ,slowly adjust this down until the spool no longer spins ,then back off a mm or so spin then another mm or so until the spool spins freely .

76jerry ,there is a Holland & Wilkinson Rotoglide (blatent chinese rip off ,of a okuma sheffield ,a bit blingy in the colouring but just as good as a sheffield and i recall the sheffield is 3/4" or 7/8ths either way these aren't prone to bedding in having a solid drum face. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221199141660?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

excellent article ,slider fishing dosn't get much coverage or used much these days ,and its nice too see different views on the layout of it ,yes very thought provoking ,which means next time i'm going someware deep enough i'll play around with my set and give some of the ideas a go.maybe even make some new sliders loaded and unloaded .

http://www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/www_l...91.htm?id=11 the rather nice bag with tackle compartment box's is back and in a nicer colour scheme.the useual other bits like chemical lights etc ok the rods aint much cop but the others bits are usable like the baitrunners & landingnet .

they're a " L " type bracket part of which runs down the under edge of the drum and they where either riveted through the solid drum or recessed tiny screws used to fit them into place .once line was on the drum you wouldn't see the fittings . i have considered ,making some by finding a doner reel ,and cut the luggs out of the backplate ,just need to find reel with the same radious & deep enough rim ,then its just a matter of drilling around the backplate and cutting out between the holes for currect shape and a bit of fettling to get the right fit then paint to match (that is easier with black than poo poo brown ) the reel . i doo have another idea ,a bit cruder maybe but should work ,i have a few of these type of picture frame /mirror plate brackets someware (they're readily available from good diy stores) that i could radious the back/bottom edge & corners to shape first type from b&q etc. second & better shape from http://www.martin.co.uk/orderOnline_ProductListB.aspx?ProductCode=208) so they fitted on top of the edge of the spool and screw through the holes there with tiny nuts and screws .and the other hole used for fitting a handle too if required ,just a little work and paint and you have removable twirling luggs.might not be as pretty as alloy ones but just as effective.

not sure if the finger winders are a option on the general/retail reel ,it was for forum members who had pre-production reels ,but i guess if someone asks they might accommodate them. there was two designs i recall a loop and a set of luggs . the luggs are a bit like these i was thinking of having on mine ,i mocked this up (see my photoshop skills) for a three lugg/handles option ,in the end i just had the standard double handles as it was getting close to a "AN" timsbury trip/fish in. and i wanted the reel in time for it. i am still considering getting some made up as a upgrade ,just need to get them colour matched to the reel ,bit tricky as mines milk chocolate brown (mud camouflage) and a new set of three handles.this would give the option of three handles set in a little or three luggs for twisling with . The AN pin is a very nice reel .comes into its own on slow rivers being so free running and fast start up speed due too the light well balanced spools.

i've only know a few river spots in Leicestershire ,& mallory park but thats not dayticketed ,i only know a couple of reservoirs & pond around melbourne .but something rang a bell with ashby and match venues .and a had a google and found these . this is a large lake ,a phone call would be in order to find out if they have suitable places where you could fish with easy access http://www.willesleylake.co.uk/ http://www.fisheries.co.uk/willesley/bigmap.htm these are a few short miles away from ashby ,but should be more suitable with easy access http://www.springwoodfisheries.com/ http://www.beehivefarm-woodlandlakes.co.uk/fishing.html

bit of both ,some brands have a marked difference in the size of reels in that range .plus its a ploy to make you think you need different reel sizes for different types of fishing ie feeder or float rather than stepping up in size of reel to match the size of fish or distance to be cast . the confusion comes from everyone using different labling of their reels & sizes .

my local canal (3ft-4ft deep) in the past used to produce a lot of washed out perch ,this was because it had dye in the water from a industrial site further upstream that and the silty muck boats stired up created a environment of not just sediment suspended in the water but the water also coloured from the dye ,i'd caught perch in verious shadings from very pale to vibrant depending on what day the dye was discharged ,one particular perch was almost silver in colouring but it was a old fish (4lbs 4oz) . i think its down the light /Uv (frequency) that penertrates the water which is affected by the clarity from colouring and chemical contamination (might be clear but blocking UV) and suspended particles in the water ,two layers of the same thing Turbidity and how light filters through it and the fish being sensative to light or the frequency of that light (as to how much Uv) that passes through ,Uv is most likley the main trigger ,a lot of fish see into the uv light spectum and maybe senastive too the levels of Uv in the water clarity steve ,tench are slow growers ,and like a slow metabolism changes take longer ,plus having a thicker coating of slime over their body may also effect any photosensative effect (light level change sensativity) acting like a extra filter ,blocking light (or Uv light) more thereby slowing changes by reducing the Uv level further by absorbing more of the Uv .

there is only one choice between the raw 11 and the sheffield ,and thats cosmetic which is down to your preferance .other than them your other choice is a dragoncarp matt hayes special edition http://www.dragoncarpdirect.com/products/Matt-Hayes-Limited-Edition-Centrepin.html its a two bearings reel ,and aerial looking & cheap in price

3g - 4g is roughly 2-3 ssg ,a rough guess for a beginner is 1-2 rodlengths (20 - 25 ft) and moving upto 30 plus foot (3 rod lengths) with practice best reel size ,for average go for the most common size 4½" . but size is mostly irrelevant .balance & weight of spool is the limiting factor ,larger spools tend to be heavier and slow to start up & can cause over runs because of a flywheel effect .its all about inercia ,lighter spools overcome ineria (resistance to motion) quicker and just as importantly slows down quicker . bearings reels are kinder to beginners ,but the bearings /bushing has little to do with distance both will cast the same ,distance is down too the castee & practice .the only reel difference between a bearings reel and bushings reel ,is from new a bearings reel will be close to its optimum performance strait out the box ,and a new bushing reel needs to wear in .a bearings reel thats well balanced is quick on the start up ,and slow to err slow down and can over run if the operator is quick with the thumb (the brake) .so as a rough guide its not the reel that casts the furthest ,its the angler & his skill at making smooth casts. wallis casting is all about timming and rhythm and smoothness of action ,get it all coordinated at the right time with a modicum of grace ,and given a fair wind ,then distances reachable is 3-4+ rodlengths .if the average rodlength used is 13ft .well you can do the sums .the average angler can pick up the basic skill with in 20min or so (its really not that hard) ,perfecting that skill takes time and practice . at the moment i'd say i'd be able to cast a 2-3ssg about two rodlengths ,but i havent picked up a rod & pin in anger for what seems like forever (4-5 months i think) and would need to put a couple of krap casts in to get my mojo back ,on a good day i would comfortably cast 3 rodlengths and a really good day 4 rodthengths give or take a yard (requiring total consentration on getting it right) irrespectitive of the type of reel used. floats with crowns on them ....allcocks ???? or milwoods ????

nets don't hurt fish ,net operators do