JRT

It's certainly a good looking kayak. However I think the FF hatch is a gimmick and a waste of deck space. Also why don't OK design comfortable built in seats like the WS, LL and the new Perception yaks? The other Trident fittings still look pretty average when compared to WS to. Why don't OK adopt some of these features that other makes use, a good design is a good design after all? JRT

I notice most use bolts to fix rod mounts. Is there a reason for this or will padeye rivets be ok? The mount is a 2 hole RAM Mount if that makes a difference? Cheers JRT

What a great trip and fabulous country! Commuting into London each day I can totally understand people who are content living miles from anywhere with just nature for company. Those eagle shots are outstanding. JRT

For materials and similar instructions I would go to Starvin Marvin's site (http://www.anglersafloat.co.uk). Johnsons do pop rivets and the eyelets. The rest you can get from your nearest chandlery or diy store. I personally think you only need to rig one side, depending on how you fish. On my new yak I put the trolley on right side as I fly/lure fish so my natural fishing angle is to the left. This gives me the widest fishing angle without having to twist my body. JRT

I had a T120 pre-rigged with a trolley by Tom on this site, and a very good job he did to. Heres a pic. Dead easy to do, especially if you use rivets for the eyelets. Cheers JRT

The C-Tug is still far from perfect. The strap buckle is crap as it takes the tension off when fastened and kayaks that don't have a standard V hull may not fit prefectly (Ride135 for example).

I use this as my normal one: http://www.knoydart.co.uk/display_access.p...ogue&id=145 And one about 3 times the size for windy conditions. 5'x5' is huge!!

Jim, I misunderstood your original post. No I haven't seen a co-ordinated attack like you describe. Sounds Orca like attack! I wish the Blue Planet would do some programmes on our own fish rather than the usual far-flung species, there is alot we don't know.

I have 2 of different sizes and use them all the time. They allow you cover alot of water without drifting too fast, especially when fly/lure fishing. Get a pull, make a mental not of your position and then double back around once you land the fish for a second drift. I will be getting a rudder soon so I can drift across the wind/along the shoreline, this can be a deadly tactic on the trout reservoirs.

Yes bass definately hunt in packs. I was watching shoals of them round up pin fry and smash into them on friday. As stated it is thought bass stay in shoals with fish of the same year group or similar size. Maybe the big ones are solitary because they are the only ones left in that group? This was caught on friday as the bass were hitting shoals and shoals of baitfish being swept over a reef. JRT

Dual beam it is then! Thanks for the replies fellas. JRT

I fly/lure fish only so will rarely fish more than 15ft of water. However I want to map out holes and gullies using a FF. Do I need a dual-beam or single beam only and are there any other features worth paying for optimum screen size etc.? Thanks JRT

I can tie a non-slip loop knot just as quickly as fiddling around with a clip, especially with cold wet hands. I have used norman speed clips to but now just tie direct to the lure.

You don't need the ring. Tie a loop using a uniknot then clip the loop straight to the carabina. You can then adjust the tension/length of the trolley, tighten up for transit/loosen when in use. Also I'm not sure on your kayak but on the WS Tarpon's and Ride135 I use the excellent handle/paddle keeper to fix the trolley line so it doesn't move when set, which negates the need for a dedicated cleat for the trolley. A single cam cleat for the anchor line is all you need. Cheers JRT

Not being constrained by the EU common fisheries policy they can manage their own fishery as they see fit, without other EU countries hovering up all their fish stocks. Therefore it would be hard for the EU to adopt this sensible approach to fisheries management because fish stocks is a much lower priority than political compromise.

Thanks Starvin. Just ordered the standard Kinetic.

I'm about to order a longer paddle and have decided on a 2 peice Lendal Explorer Plus. But I'm not sure which blade to select, Kinetic Touring V Kinetic Touring S? Does anyone have the 'S' if so any advantages? Cheers JRT

As Tom says if you use a Uniknot or other sliding knot you can tighten or slacken the anchor trolley as required. I have also added large beads to act as stoppers and to prevent knots jamming in the blocks. This vid on the MantaRay site shows what I mean: http://www.liquidlogickayaks.com/videos/LL...rTrolley.dv.mov

Thanks GB So did the rudder on your T140 make a difference?

I'm thinking of getting a rudder fitted but I'm concerned about the additional weight and bulk. Are they secure upside down on top of the car? I have the new WS Ride 135 and would get the WS rudder kit for this. Thanks JRT

Bass are all around the coast now due to the warmer water temps. BASS and CEFAS have done some bass tagging over the last few years which has shown they are much more widespread than 20 years ago. If you keep on putting them back they should be there next year to as the tagging shows they tend to return to the same areas even spots year on year. Also the long offshore migrations the used to do for breeding each year is no longer the case. the tagging is suggesting they are breeding more inshore than ever before. Cheers JRT

Thanks for advise. I think my estimate of 5knot current might be a tad off but I take your points about anchoring in current. I will have a rethink. Thanks JRT

I need to hold in a 5 knot current in a shallow estuary with a sandy bottom, any advice? Thanks JRT

Perfect. Thanks guys

I need to rig an anchor trolley and need pad eyes etc. Can these be sourced in the UK? Thanks JRT