Lift Method

[BoldBear]

But surely if you add more shot the rig will not fish as intended. The fish will feel a heavier weight than necessary as it picks the bait up. The common advice is to shot the float so that it just sinks. By adding more the rig will not be balanced as described. Is there another way to deal with smooth bottoms?

The Lift Method was developed by the great F.J. Taylor MBE (who as you know sadly died a couple of days ago) and it was developed primarily to detect a Tench bite as soon as it takes the bait into its mouth and returns to the upright position before moving off (see chavenders diagrams and the diagram below); which will either cause the float to lie flat on the surface or shoot away if the tench bolts or moves off. It is an advantage to have the float slightly overshotted (NB. the weight is counterbalanced by the bouyancy of the float) and slightly overdepth so that you can wind down until the float is cocked nicely and the line is thereby tensioned between the rod top to the float.

The distance between the hook and the shot should be short enough for this to work (2 to 4 inches) however some people like to lengthen this slightly (which if too long slightly defeats the object). Some people also like to attatch the shot using a small 3/4 inch link of line to minimise the chance of the shot pinching the main line and therefore weakening it. Its a great method which works really well for fish that feed in this way.

Edited May 9, 2008 by BoldBear

[Jim Murray]

It is an advantage to have the float slightly overshotted (NB. the weight is counterbalanced by the bouyancy of the float) and slightly overdepth

 

Have read this theory many many times. In *practice* many many times it just doesn't work. As Gozzer has said on some bottoms you'd have to *vastly* overshot to get it to work as intended.

[gozzer]

Have read this theory many many times. In *practice* many many times it just doesn't work. As Gozzer has said on some bottoms you'd have to *vastly* overshot to get it to work as intended.

 

Hi Jim, I think the "vastly" over shotting bit is causing some misunderstanding.

 

I've never gone over 1 swan shot as my 'lift' shot. Although this may be much more than the small length of quill would need to sink it, I wouldn't call it "vastly" over shotted.

 

The lift method (as I was taught to use it), is best done at fairly close range, ( 2-3 rod lengths at max), ideally in fairly calm conditions, at 6' deep or less, and with a biggish bait. It is one of the most simple, yet effective float methods I've ever used.

If the conditions are are not right to fish like this, then other ways have to be used. The long antennae float then come into it's own then.

You can use a smaller 'lift' shot with this float, because by adjusting the float and shotting you can control the way the float acts.

If there is a strong surface drift, and/or under tow, then by changing the length of the float, and the position of the bulk shot, you can create a kind of balance between the two. This enables you to use a smaller shot as the indicator.

By thinking and constantly adjusting the float/shot you can keep the bait doing more or less what you want it to do.

But there are times when it just won't work and you have to change method.

 

John.

[Arkie]

Just found this thread after searching for information on fishing the lift method and though the thread is quite old, would like to thank all the contributors for helping me understand the method and can't wait to give it a go on Friday when I'll get a rare full days fishing.

 

I just have a couple of questions that hopefully someone could answer.

 

1. Is there any reason I shouldn't use float stops on the line to set the float depth as opposed to holding it in place with float rubbers?

 

2. The pond I'm fishing (Pidgeon Cottage if anyone knows it) is a mixed water with a good head of tench to about 4lbs, lots of crucians, to my personal experience mirrors to 20lb and a good head of rudd and roach. It's not a huge pond and I would guess whatever peg you pick, you're never further than maybe 3 rod lengths from any feature. Also it has an average depth of about 3 feet. Would you say this is a good water to try out the lift method for the first time?

 

Many thanks

 

Arkie....

[chevin]

Surely it can't work like that; if the float can support that weight you wouldn't be able to cock it in the first place, it would repeatedly lie flat when you tighten down to it.

 

There is truth in both statements here. The weight does need to be greater than what the float will support, other wise it would not be possible to cock the float when you tighten up. However, when the fish does pick up the bait the float does indeed support some of the weight of the lead shot. I used to use fairly large antenna floats so that there was a lot of antenna to expose before the float began to lay flat. Once it is doing that then the fish is obviously supporting all of the weight that was on the bottom. Different shot spacings can make the rig more sensitive if you wish, by having the majority of the lead well off the bottom, and the excess on the bottom. However, I have never known a fish drop a bait once the float has fallen on its side. Generally, if left long enough it will slide away as in any other bite. The lift method is a method to give you early warning of a bite and generally as soon as the float begins to lift the strike will connect. It is also a brilliant method to use when float fishing at night.

[Vagabond]

Absolutely agree with Chevin.

 

If ever you get a chance to observe tench feeding you will see that very often they do not "tilt down and then regain the horizontal"

 

Rather they maintain a near-vertical position and appear to be "bouncing on their heads" Once you have witnessed this, you are able to visualise the mechanics of the lift method very easily. The float goes flat = the tench has your bait in its mouth = strike!

 

Chevin is right about non-ejection once the float has gone flat. If the fish is suspicious upon feeling a weight, either it is too late because you have struck, or the reaction of a suspicious tench is not to spit the bait out but to get the hell out of here. Hence a moment's inattention means a rod may get pulled in!

 

I often use a sort of modified lift method under the rod tip, with a porcupine quill float attached top and bottom. Not only tench give lift bites. Roach, bream. crucians and carp will all make the float go flat if you have set it correctly.

 

One of the advantages of the lift method is that it is used at close range. This means, IF you are keeping sufficiently quiet and still, that you can (1) observe what is going on more easily, and (2) loose feed extremely accurately.

 

BTW conventional float fishing requires a very small telltale shot about 6-8" from the hook. The lift method requires a different logic - enough weight near the hook (2-3") to make a big difference to the float when lifted - BB is the smallest I use for this style - and often an AAA or even an SSG.

 

As Gozzer says, you may have to do a bit of fine tuning if there is an undertow.