More Plumbing Woe!

[chesters1]

i just love it when people talk dirty

[Dan]

Oi Elton go get your own thread!! Seriously tho hope you get it sorted too, this plumbing problem malarky seems to be catching!

 

You might find an appropriate sized O ring works better than a fibre washer or a flat rubber washer.

 

Dan

 

Dan

[chesters1]

yes yes YES

[squidlips]

chesters that corgi bloke who didnt find your caravan gas leak may not have been qualified to work on caravans.one call to corgi and he would have been in it up to his neck.

today i passed my exam to fit and examine heating oil tanks and lines but i still cant touch the boiler,cost for today £240 course,£450 registration and £120 for license and no wages for today.need to save up for boiler course £2000

and 5 days training.

cowboys dont want to spend this type of money

[hoppy]

Hows the repairs going Dan?

[Dan]

Hi Hoppy

Fortunately having messed around with my son's metal detector I have sussed that the pipe causing all the prob is teed off the main hot water supply, so I have capped it at the T (copper stub in photo), I have no hot water to the utility room but no other leaks at the moment. It looks like the insurance company might admit cover so I am going down that route, In any event I shall re route the hot and cold supply to the kitchen from where they come down in the boxing in around the stack (behind the cat) under the rad and around the skirting behind the units, that way only a tiny bit will be visible (will be a bit of a scrabble to stretch under the units but a doddle compared to digging up the oak floor in the hall and tiles in utility room!. To get a supply to the utility room I'll come down from the ceiling (boiler is upstairs). Hopefully the Insurance will pay other wise its down to me! That way only the cental heating microbore pipes will remain in the floor (and the gas pipe)

 

All I have to do now is find a plumber that agrees with me that the only way to be sure is to bypass these buried pipes all together and to confirm the suspected reason for their failure.

 

Dan

 

[ 18. October 2005, 11:52 PM: Message edited by: Dan ]

[Tog]

'Surface mount' the pipes sounds like a good route Dan, I got the builder's who'd built my Nan's place to do the same to the whole system 10 years after they'd concreted in the original pipes (they started leaking after about 7 yrs).

They did take some arm twisting but being a local company of good repute they did the decent thing.

Looks fine with a few of those clip on covers where visable and at least I can get at it all now.

 

Re: earth bonding, Where your patch has been done you should strap over if there is no bonding at each end of the copper pipes.

Once you start to use mainly plastic then the it's not required.

Also many incomming water mains are plastic so there is no potential to equalise.

http://www.iee.org/Publish/WireRegs/Wiring...not_to_bond.pdf

above link shows how much safer we all would be with plastic pipe everywhere!

[Dan]

Cheers Tog there's bonding at the boiler end and at the sink end but needs tidying up a bit. The c/w water supply is alkathene, or similar.

 

What caused your Nans pipes to leak? cement eating the solder?

 

dan

[Tog]

Elton: make sure your water pipe is inline with the ball/float valve, any misalignment will cause the fibre/o ring to weep.

A 'flexy' braided 'tap' fitting is the way many cisterns are connected now if any missalignment or movement is likely.

I've used a push in copper connection on the thread & short length of copper pipe to plastic for my new loo, nice & tidy once I box in the plastic. And flexible enough that I can pull the loo away from the wall for tiling without having to disconnect it.

[Tog]

Oh yes Dan, bloody fittings leaking everywhere.

First few they dug up, fixed , put in little hatches and such... Then up another sprang ......

Once we threatened them with the insurance co chassing them for the furnishing damage they decided to replace all the concreted in stuff for free.