Pole Fishing Question

[Roland]

I've been kindly donated a pole from one of my work colleagues. Having not used one massivley before, I just wanted to ask a couple of things regarding rig steup and depth.

 

Are pole rigs made to different lengths? (store bought ones)

 

How do you plumb the depth with a pole? is it the same as a rod and line ?

 

Are pole rigs adjustable for length/depth? Or do you simply change to a longer or shorter rig to suit conditions?

 

many thanks and happy new year!

 

Ben

[Maddog]

Hi Ben (fellow new VAC member),

 

I'm not very good at typing out explainations, much easier to show you.

 

The best advice I could give you is to pop up to Riverside Road in the afternoon and have a chat to anyone who is pole fishing, especially if you find Stan there which is a good possibility. I am sure anyone there would be happy to show and explain it all to you.

 

Basically, we make pole rigs to suit the depth of the swim we are fishing so for Riverside Road make a few rigs at home which are about 7 ft long (RR is aprox 5 ft deep all over), then when you get to the lake put a cork bottomed plumet on the hook and ship out the pole and lower gently into the water until you feel the plumet hit bottom. Adjust float as necessary and repeat until you find the depth accurately, you only want about 12 inches of line above the float whilst fishing so now is the time to cut and re-tie your loop at the pole end. Take tippex correction fluid with you, mark the depth on your pole with the tippex so you have something to refer back to all day.

 

Well, that will get you started and I will see you at RR for the (postponed) Xmas match.

 

 

 

Regards

 

Colin

[jason.p]

I prefer to make my own rigs, I think you'll find most people do. If you know the venue, make your rigs to suit. It's best to have them overlength so that on the day say if it's windy you may want them a bit longer with maybe 18 to 24 ins above the float, otherwise as Maddog says cut them to length (after you've plumbed up) and retie the loop.

You can get an adjustable rig connector (Nisa connectadjust) where you can alter the length without cutting the line so that if conditions change it's easy to make the necessary alteration.

As Maddog says, plumbing is much the same as with other floatmethods, but can be much more accurate. It's probably best to start off with the bait at dead level and alter it if necessary an inch or so longer till the bites come. Plumbing is so important, I usually check with the plummet several times during a session in case the float has moved, especially after playing a big fish through weed etc.

Hope this helps a bit. Once you start catching on the pole, there's no going back. Good luck

[RUDD]

I prefer to make my own rigs, I think you'll find most people do. If you know the venue, make your rigs to suit. It's best to have them overlength so that on the day say if it's windy you may want them a bit longer with maybe 18 to 24 ins above the float, otherwise as Maddog says cut them to length (after you've plumbed up) and retie the loop.

You can get an adjustable rig connector (Nisa connectadjust) where you can alter the length without cutting the line so that if conditions change it's easy to make the necessary alteration.

As Maddog says, plumbing is much the same as with other floatmethods, but can be much more accurate. It's probably best to start off with the bait at dead level and alter it if necessary an inch or so longer till the bites come. Plumbing is so important, I usually check with the plummet several times during a session in case the float has moved, especially after playing a big fish through weed etc.

Hope this helps a bit. Once you start catching on the pole, there's no going back. Good luck

 

One thing I have learnt over the years is to NEVER replumb, it can kill a peg for a while or even outright.

Once you have plumbed your line pull your rig parallel with your top kit (so the rig is under tension but elastic is not quite pulling out) and mark the tip position of your float on your top kit with a dab of tippex, then keeping rig tight and mark your position of hook using tippex.

You now have depth of peg marked on your pole.

You can change depth or put on a different rig at correct depth, replace hooklength etc and always know the dead depth of that particular line.

 

Roland - pole floats are held on the rig with silicon and the float can be slid up or down line.

It is best to make you own rigs due to cost and the fact that you can build the rig to your own specifications (how long you want them, line diameter, shot size, shot pattern, olivette (bulk shot) if needed, hook length, hook size, hook length diameter etc etc.

 

One tip I will give is that I do build hooklengths onto pole rigs.

All my pole rig hooklengths are ready tied the same length, I add my hooklength / hook to suit the peg I am going to fish to match the bait I am using when setting up on the bank.

[tony tinca]

I've been kindly donated a pole from one of my work colleagues. Having not used one massivley before, I just wanted to ask a couple of things regarding rig steup and depth.

 

Are pole rigs made to different lengths? (store bought ones)

 

How do you plumb the depth with a pole? is it the same as a rod and line ?

 

Are pole rigs adjustable for length/depth? Or do you simply change to a longer or shorter rig to suit conditions?

 

many thanks and happy new year!

 

Ben

 

i will second that what rudd says about dropping a plumb all over the place , you only want to do it the once.

making your own pole rigs is much better than the ready made shop ones and i make all mine at home whilst watching tv and its theraputic and more importantly your personalising yourself with the rigs and its a good practice for learning how to master all the knots for loops and hooklengths and shotting patterns rather than just taking it out of the packet and bunging it on .

also as rudd says making lots of hooklengths from say 0.10mm upto 0.20mm so u can add them on the day. U can either use a rig wallet and make sure u mark each rig with a bit of masking tape which u can write the strength on so u know which is which, or use a pole rig winder and do the same .

It might take an hour to make your first couple of rigs up but after a while you can do it in minutes giving you more time to think about other fishing aspects

all the advice given on this forum is helpfull, but if its not quite right theres always someone who will post their ideas so the advice keeps getting stronger and stronger , i wish id joined this years ago . happy new year ben

Edited January 3, 2011 by tony tinca

[jason.p]

I can only speak from my own experience about re plumbing. I've found on more than one occasion when bites have dried up re plumbing has had an immediate effect. I do take the point that dropping a plummet in may disturb a swim, but knowing I've got it exactly right gives me confidence. I've tried the Tippex and elastic band marker idea, but always feel there's an element of error involved (probably just imagined).

 

Rudd, I'll give your method with Tippex a try if we ever manage to get out! It just goes to show, you're never too old to learn, I suppose that's what these forums are all about.

 

Roland apologies for duff information

[tony tinca]

I can only speak from my own experience about re plumbing. I've found on more than one occasion when bites have dried up re plumbing has had an immediate effect. I do take the point that dropping a plummet in may disturb a swim, but knowing I've got it exactly right gives me confidence. I've tried the Tippex and elastic band marker idea, but always feel there's an element of error involved (probably just imagined).

 

Rudd, I'll give your method with Tippex a try if we ever manage to get out! It just goes to show, you're never too old to learn, I suppose that's what these forums are all about.

 

Roland apologies for duff information

 

it wasnt duff as re plumbing is still better than not being plumb at all , its only that the tippex or band method is even better

Edited January 3, 2011 by tony tinca

[Roland]

Thanks for the info Gentlemen

 

Sitting here tying some rigs up as we speak

[Roland]

Me again,

 

I've had quite some success on the pol;e and have really got into it. I've just got a couple of shotting questions and a general question.

 

Recently, It has been very windy giving a very hard tow on the water. This has been blowing my rig all over the place, spoiling presentation. What sort of shotting pattern if any can prevent my rig going sideways?

 

Getting towards the hook length, should I be using small dropper shot ? Normally I will just bulk the shotting capacity 1/3 up from the hook

 

Lastly, I fished last week to an island on a match lake. Plumbing up led me to believe that I was fishing on a steep slope. Is it ok to fish on a slope? or would I be more prosperous finding th ebottom of the slope and fishing there? When I fished the slope I had plenty of bites but not many fish!

[Renrag39]

Unfortunately I often find fishing slopes is patchy at best, I think this is because many slopes (not all) are mainly a transitory area, not a feeding area as such.

I would definitely find the bottom of the slope and concentrate there.

 

Sorry, don't know owt 'bout pole thingymajigs.

Could try a really big shot (leger)? I find they don't move all that much in strong wind...

 

Renrag