Boat - Good News.....And Bad

[Elton]

Not sure what has gone on with the floor, but this should be boxed in...

 

[Guest stevie cop]

Now that the engine is off, it looks like someone has had a dig about on the outside of the transom too. Still, once you've finished the repair it'll be better than new.

[Newt]

Just bear in mind Elton that if the transom goes, your motor goes with it and the boat starts making blub, blub sounds and getting VERY wet.

[Sharkbyte]

Hi Elton,

we have a screw in access panel in our floor there, with a bilge pump fitted under the deck in addition to one over. From your pictures it looks as though they have cut out a large section to get at the probable rot around the drain plug area. I would guess the rot will have been concentrated around the plug and where the outboard bolts have been drilled.

[Elton]

Cheers, Sharkbyte.

 

Something a bit odd has gone on there, for sure. That bit of wood you can see appears to be a bit of decking.

 

Hopefully, I'll get it all cut out and replaced as soon as possible.

[Leon Roskilly]

er, when you've finished mucking about with that one Elton, I've found you another to get your teeth into.

 

 

 

 

Tight Lines - leon

[n4lly]

[Sharkbyte]

Cruel sods

[Elton]

Yeah, funny guys

 

Rather than cut the engine-well out, I've thought about cutting the 'top' of the boat off, starting just forward of the engine-well.

 

I spoke to Wilsons and they said they put the transom in before the top goes on, so this seems to make sense.

 

Does anyone have a clue what I'm on about, because the above has even confused me :confused:

 

[ 03. June 2005, 05:42 PM: Message edited by: Elton ]

[chris parker]

The hull of the boat is made first in a mould starting with the gellcoat and then the glass fibre, The wood for the transom is bedded into wet resin and cloth as well as any keel and stringers used. Backing pads for things like cleats, seating and stearing are added at this stage. This is then covered in more layers of Glass cloth and resin untill the final laminate thickness is reached. The inside is coated in a flocoat, similar to the outer gellcoat but with a wax addative as air has to be excluded from this coat for it to cure. This is why you have to degrease with acetone if you want new resin to stick to old stuff.

 

The top moulding is made in ecactly the same way and the two halves removed from their moulds and stuck together. The joint is usually covered in the black rubbing strip around the outside of the boat. Thy can be joined with resin, or a mechanical fixing or both.

 

It would make sense to separate the two mouldings to improve access to the transom. Use a 9 inch grinder to cut out the majority of the inner laminate covering the transom wood and a 4 1/2 inch to clean it up. Dig out all the timber and rough up the inside of the remaining laminate with 40 grit belts on a sander. Remove all dust and degrease with acetone. Cut a template of cardboard to size for your new timber. Scribe this onto WBP or Marine ply and cut to size. If you are using more than one thickness of ply laminate together using Balcotan Polyurethane adhesive. Cover the ply in resin and a couple of layers of CSM on the side to be bonded to the remaining transom laminate. This will bond the two materials and take up any small voids there may be. Use sandbags to hold the bottom of the ply snug to the transom laminate and clamps with large scrap ply spreaders on the outside of the laminate at the top and let the whole lot cure.

 

When cured, remove the clamps and bags and build up the laminate inside lapping glass and resin over the existing sides of the hull. Finish with a layer of surface tissue and flocoat to waterproof.

 

Reatatch the upper moulding and off you go.

 

Hope this helps a bit