The case for Treble hooks.

[Newt]

You don't get the same hook-tangling problems as you do with conventional netting, plus it's almost impossible to get the hooks caught in the weave of the mesh itself.

 

Steve - except for the additional weight on the old style rubber net (and that isn't an issue for me since I load my boat at home and don't have to carry anything) the rubber landing net is one of the very few products I will recommend without reservation. No hook-tangling. Completely impossible to get the hooks caught in the mesh. Net length is minimal unless you put an object inside (like a fish) to expand it but then it is designed to stretch to about triple the relaxed length.

 

I had intended to bring just the net part when we visited but I just plain ran out of room and weight allowance.

 

I bow to the expertise on here (with some reluctance but I really do) on using trebles with bait. I have moved from trebles to singles about 10 years ago with carp & catfish which are the main fish I use with bait. I don't really think I miss many more takes with the singles and they are surely easier to deal with.

 

The lures I still use with trebles all have the barbs crushed. As you noted, a tail walking fish can throw a lure but I'll happily allow that since I don't fish tourneys and don't want to keep them for eating.

 

I'll be very interested in your reaction to circles once you have been using them for a while. For the larger pike baits, you might want to grab a few of the Kahle hooks I sent Elton to try with his sea fishing.

[grumpybum]

I to have tried various types of hooks, but always came back to semi barbless trebles.

 

What I do these days however is replace the top treble with a short shank, fine wire,barbed single hook. This is used solely in the tail root of the bait.

 

This way reduced flying hooks catching in either the net mesh or outside a pikes mouth.

[gorton]

Just to enter this thread from a slightly different approach regarding deep hooking, as I think Greg mentioned in an earlier post I think it is extremely important to ascertain the depth of your swim by plumbing before you start when using sliding floats with deadbaits.

 

If floats are set as accurately as possible (I know you have to allow a bit for surface drift etc) in my opinion only of course it eliminates an awful lot of deep hooking, I have experimented this season striking at the very first indications on the float and have not found any great difference in hooking up ratios to previous seasons.

[Anderoo]

Just to enter this thread from a slightly different approach regarding deep hooking, as I think Greg mentioned in an earlier post I think it is extremely important to ascertain the depth of your swim by plumbing before you start when using sliding floats with deadbaits.

 

If floats are set as accurately as possible (I know you have to allow a bit for surface drift etc) in my opinion only of course it eliminates an awful lot of deep hooking, I have experimented this season striking at the very first indications on the float and have not found any great difference in hooking up ratios to previous seasons.

 

...and don't use self-cocking floats

[gorton]

Could not agree more Anderoo

[Dick Dastardly]

A bit off the origonal thread but yes self cocking floats are a definate no-no.

 

But needing to know the exact depth of a swim can be totally dispensed with by using either a bottom end only (unweighted) float or a sunk float!

In fact I would sugest that if you are using a sliding float with a suspended weight (so the float still remains cocked) with the bait on the bottom.Its your rig thats wrong not your plumbing!