upstream worming

[ALLANM]

Some great advice here, thanks everyone for such informative replies.

 

Looks like I might have to invest in a pair of waders! Some of the most likely looking spots I've found would be much easier to fish from directly downstream rather than trying to cast between overhanging branches. I also like the idea of using a matchstick as a bite indicator. I presume that by having no weight on the line, the bait tends to 'ride' over obstructions to some extent? There are plenty of snags around, as I've discovered whilst spinning! Out of interest, would you hook a lobworm through the head or middle, or doesn't it matter?

[Steve Burke]

Out of interest, would you hook a lobworm through the head or middle, or doesn't it matter?

 

During the time I fished such rivers I used mainly lobworms and hooked the worm in the saddle - the thicker bit a little way from the head. However, these days I usually hook worms in the head. That way I can fish the worm back to me sink and draw etc.

For conventional upstream worming I don't think it really matters as you're allowing the current to tumble the worm back down to you.

[bluerinse]

I have fished a form of up stream worming, it involves a very special weight,

 

The weight is a small tube of lead incased in a plastic sleeve, the sleeve is three times biger than the lead and sealed at the top, this causes a bubble of traped air. (I purchased these in Sweden)

 

The weight is fish on a sliding rig , normaly with a bead and swivel and a long hock lenght, around 2 feet.

The worm is hooked through the head.

 

This is cast up stream and bounced back slowly towards you, you need to keep in contact with the weight, I use a ledger rod, bounch back a foot or so at a time hold for a 10-15 seconds and repeat.

You very offten get takes just after the lead has settled.

 

I have caught many types of fish on this method, Pearch, Roach, Chub, Dace, trout, sea Trout, etc

 

I have used this on the River Arrow ( a small tributry of the Warwickshir Avon) to great effect for Chub and Dace.

 

Not sure were you would be able to get the weights, I now only have one left! and its a bit far to go to sweden.

I did see them on a web site some time ago but can't remeber were.

 

Anyway I hope this helps in soem way.

[Vagabond]

hooked the worm in the saddle - the thicker bit a little way from the head.

 

Hooking worms through the saddle (as opposed to elsewhere) shortens their life.

 

However, in the context of upstream worming for trout, that is just academic, as the trout usually see to it that the life of an upstream worm is a short one !

 

For upstream worming in fastish water I always hooked the worm twice, once about an inch above the tail, and once a quarter-inch behind the head. Hooking a worm once usually meant the trout tore it off the hook. If one end of the worm came adrift, I rehooked it - on the few occasions I was too lazy to do that, the next take would see the worm torn off its remaining hookhold.

 

For slower and still water I use Steve's method of once through the head, 'cos the usual quarry there (cyprinids and perch) "inhale" the worm. Trout just grab it !

Edited February 22, 2007 by Vagabond

[Tony U]

When I was younger and used to fish the various Northumbrian rivers for Trout we always wormed wet fly style i.e. across and down. We used to weight the line sufficiently to move round with the flow of the river I remember drilled bullets were preferred to shot for this. by fishing this way you were always in contact with the bait; bites were detected by touch and later we used the first quiver tip rods for this when they eventually arrived up there.

 

 

Tony

Edited February 23, 2007 by Tony U

[Vagabond]

We used to wait the line sufficiently to move round with the flow of the river I remember drilled bullets were preferred to shot for this. by fishing this way you were always in contact with the bait; bites were detected by touch

 

I have caught salmon on West Coast spate rivers by that method. Found it VERY important to carry a range of bullet sizes, as the optimum weight for working the worm and detecting the bites varied from swim to swim (and even sometimes for different parts of the same swim) Changing drilled bullets often was a chore, but one worth doing.

 

Of course if the water flow is slow enough to get away with a few swan shot, life is made much easier - you can either put on/take off the swan shots direct, or use a shot leger.

 

Bites were certainly detected by touch - either a sort of vibration at which you struck, or the other sort, where the rod was suddenly pulled nearly out of your hands!

 

As for trout, I have tried the downstream method, and yes it catches fish. However, if the water is wadeable, I have always found upstream worming, upstream spinning, and upstream wet fly (a la W.S.Stewart) more productive than their downstream counterparts. For larger rivers, then yes, downstream fishing comes into its own. How deep/fast were the waters you fished Tony?

 

BTW I have just got Graeme Harris and Moc Morgan's book on seatrout, and was delighted to find they

 

a. Advocated upstream spinning for seatrout, in contrast to the "down-and across" style which is the prefered method for salmon.

 

b. Repeated what I have said for years, when upstream spinning, you CANNOT retrieve too fast.

 

Unlike almost all previous authors, their approach is to treat seatrout as TROUT and not as a smaller species of salmon. Makes good sense to me.

[ALLANM]

Thanks to all the helpful advice received on this thread, I've managed to land a few fish from small rivers/streams since the season started. Fishing the upstream worm has proved to be a pretty effective method, mainly for chub so far (and a surprise 2lb rainbow trout). I also found a great book on the subject, 'Big Fish from Small Waters' by Kenneth Seaman. So far I've been using my 11' 9" 1.25lb tc 'Avon' rod, which I find ideal apart from one thing. In some of the more overgrown swims it is too long. It can be difficult to cast in confined spaces and it's only a matter of time before I damage the tip whilst climbing through undergrowth to get to the river.

 

Does anyone know if such a thing as a short 'Avon' type rod exists? Ideally I'm looking for something around 9ft/9.5 ft with the same qualities as my existing rod. I suppose a light leger rod with a through action would do but everything seems to have a built in quivertip these days. I'd be grateful for any suggestions.

[Steve Burke]

Allan, rod action is up to a point a matter of personal choice. However, a spinning rod of the right power may be the answer, as long as the action isn't too tippy.

 

Alternatively you could have an Avon or a fast action fly rod custom-built. PM me if this is of interest.

[ALLANM]

Thanks Steve, I did consider a spinning rod but the ones I have are too stiff for the job. I've sent you a PM regarding custom rods.

[eamonn321]

Sounds like some kind of pervie activity!