rodbuilding question - opinions required.

[jabee]

It is a fairly commonly held view, amongst American rod builders, that a rod fished with a multiplier is more stable under load if the rings are attached to the blank in a spiral - the first three/four guides are 'spirraled' around the rod so the the line runs under the fighting length of the blank instead of on top of it. This arrangement is also known as an 'acid wrap' in America, in so much as the guy who first did it must have taken some

I am not convinced, but I'm tempted to try it on an old spare glass blank (even though I may get laughed off whichever boat I'm on when I first produce the contraption ).

Any views before I give it a try?

[H.A.]

I can only see it putting torque on the blank against the lie of the fibres.

 

Rex Hunt's 'Bushy' managed to break his which was similarly rung.

 

I think he called it the 'Black Witch' or something ....

[Norm B]

jabee:

It is a fairly commonly held view, amongst American rod builders, that a rod fished with a multiplier is more stable under load if the rings are attached to the blank in a spiral - the first three/four guides are 'spirraled' around the rod so the the line runs under the fighting length of the blank instead of on top of it. This arrangement is also known as an 'acid wrap' in America, in so much as the guy who first did it must have taken some    

Any views before I give it a try?

Hi, I have actually seen a rod built like this, I didn't think I could stand the flack on the beach so I declined to test it. I'm sure it was built by Chris Ward but it could have been Jules Shambrook, give them a ring if you are really interested.

[Newt]

I modified several older casting rods to this arrangement. Casting is (for me at least) pretty much unaffected. Playing a fish is a bit easier I think. But nothing huge yet on a rod ringed this way so can't say for sure.

 

I modified a couple of fairly short rods of 6.5 feet so didn't get the full benefit but since you can go with wider spacing between rings when they are on the underside, I'm guessing it would improve the action of the blank since any ring will stiffen the rod at that point.

 

At this point and unless something really strange happens, I plan to use that pattern on any rods I build (or completely re-ring) and if I ever come into money, I would have a custom job done that style.

 

I do suggest that when you are setting up the ring placement that you go with small rubber bands (like the dentist uses with braces) to position the rings before putting on thread. Lots easier to move around than if you use tape and will take enough strain that you can get the rings where they need to be with the rod under load.

[Rockling]

Surprise is the first word that springs to mind, regarding this arrangement. Wrapping the line round the rod, if I understand what is described, can only lead to greater risk of abrasion and snap off through friction. The rod, if used correctly, exhausts the fish (any trout fisher will agree)by being held up high; the beach fisher simply reels in - generally if a beach fisher hooks a big specimen he is in trouble as he has no idea how to play a big fish. I have seen this several times when a very active sea fish like a coalfish or a pollack is hooked. Drag set incorrectly - big bust.

My rod may be the equivalent of a Skoda but who wants a DeLorean, realistically? Spiral wrap is equivalent to gull wing doors - looks brilliant but is totally non-utilitarian. Think about it, gull wings need an extra 18 inches either side than the average parking bay, otherwise I will continue to shimmy out the 15 inches allowed to me!

[Newt]

Line never touches rod if the rings are properly placed. In fact, much less likely to have line rub the rod blank this way that with a normal multiplier setup.

 

You might want to try a rod set up this way (or at least see one) before deciding if it's a good idea or not.

[jabee]

Newt:

 

I do suggest that when you are setting up the ring placement that you go with small rubber bands (like the dentist uses with braces) to position the rings before putting on thread.  Lots easier to move around than if you use tape and will take enough strain that you can get the rings where they need to be with the rod under load.

Agree Newt - I use small pieces of plastic tubing, which I get in various sizes - it holds the guides securely on the blank while setting up.

[Newt]

jabee - don't you have to cut the tubing and put more on after you move the rings?

 

I really like the elastic bands since I can just roll them off the guide feet, move the guide, and roll them back on and they will adapt to changes in blank diameter really well.

[KennyC]

I was under the impression - when rod blanks are manufactured a 'spine' is created where the carbon overlaps.

 

Depending on what sort of action you want a rod to have, the rings should either be placed either along this 'spine' or on the opposite side of the 'spine'.

 

If the rings are placed any where else on the blank it produces a twisting effect - which totally messes up the action of the blank.

 

--------

Kenny

[jabee]

Newt:

jabee -  don't you have to cut the tubing and put more on after you move the rings?

 

I really like the elastic bands since I can just roll them off the guide feet, move the guide, and roll them back on and they will adapt to changes in blank diameter really well.

I use surgical tubing - it's more secure than elastic bands. You can actually test cast a fly or spinning rod with the guides secured like this and still move them up and down the blank to adjust guide spacing before wrapping them on. I leave the bands in place until the whipping has climbed the foot of the guide, removing them by cutting them with a razor blade to allow the whipping to be neatly finished.