berkeley fireline

[Grant]

I use 15lb fireline with a good length of 20lb amnesia mono on the end to help with abrasions.

 

I also used to suffer from wind knots using braid, but found the solution to be the reel itself.

 

Essentially, Shimano have fitted taller spools to their more recent spinning reels to rectify this problem, and in the last year since using one, I have not had a single wind knot, so I presume it works.

 

Hope this is useful

[fishy1]

Hello Alan,your comments on "Spin doctors" was very enlightening as I've never heard of them before and will try and get some, but can I pick your brains some more????. I've never spun with braid before but intend too this summer, My idea was to fit a small "paravane" (they're like a half circle of plastic on wire)between line and lure, as I've been told they stop line twist,Do you,or anyone else,know if they work????,your input would be welcome tight lines fishy1

[paulthefish]

Hi Fishy 1,

the 'paravane' you mention certainly works, Ive used them for spinning with devon minnows (salmon fishing) to great effect but they only stop twist induced by the lure. What they will not stop is twist induced by the reel which is actually the problem that most people have as very few sea lures actually spin so Grant's tip of using a good reel is one I would heartily endorse.

Paul

[fishy1]

hello Paul,thanks for your information it's duely noted and i'll check out my reels.I must say these forums are amazing, the knowledge avalable seems to be un-ending,Manxlad who started this thread olso took time to E-mail me and give me a fishing web site on the I-O-M and some other info as I'm going there in June, for this I thank him,plus all this info on spinning with braid, it's got to be good for our sport tight lines fishy1

[spasor]

Just to emphasise an often missed point when loading line on to your reel. Don`t leave the spool of line your loading from, dancing on the floor!! This will put an inherent twist in the line before you ever get to cast.

I`ve got a trusty old 6ins nail on top of my fence, onto which I drop my spool of line. Then load my reel from it.

I know some of you will think I`m trying to teach grannie how to suck eggs. But when was the last time you listened to grannie?

Paul.

[Newt]

And another idea to prevent some line twist with a multiplier - DO NOT wind in while the fish is taking line via the clutch/drag.

 

Pump, wind down, pump, etc. will do it but the other way you are putting some serious twists into your line.

 

Or my favorite way - use a multiplier.

[Alan Taylor]

spasor:

Just to emphasise an often missed point when loading line on to your reel. Don`t leave the spool of line your loading from, dancing on the floor!! This will put an inherent twist in the line before you ever get to cast.

I`ve got a trusty old 6ins nail on top of my fence, onto which I drop my spool of line. Then load my reel from it.

I know some of you will think I`m trying to teach grannie how to suck eggs. But when was the last time you listened to grannie?

Paul.

Paul is dead rite here, I get someone to put a pen/pencil through the hole in the spool and load the line under some pressure besides that pressure exerted by your finger and thumb when winding the line. I also put about 20 turns of wool directly onto the spool first but that is a habit that I picked up when spools used to "implode" many years ago. If you don't load the line under pressure, when you think it is full you get a nasty shock the first time you wind in your gear, you could have got a lot more line on.

There used to be a reel called the Orlando, you took the spool from the side of the reel and locked it onto the front of the reel just like the modern fixed spool reels, after casting you took the spool off and put it back onto the side again as in an ordinary multiplier. The idea was that you took the twist out every time you cast out.

While we were first trying to figure out how to get rid of line twist we came up with the idea of running the line off of the reel, tying the end to a drill bit and (under pressure) reversing the twist out using the electric drill. It worked up to a point but was a lot of buggering about

 

Paul, teaching granny to suck eggs, why not, there a loads of newcomers to fishing on here, sadly they don't all post with what they think are silly questions but are infact questions that a lot of others would also like to ask

 

Someone once said on AN words to this effect,

"the person that asks a question may feel silly for a few minutes but the person who never asks the question will remain silly for the rest of his/her life" some thing like that anyway.

 

Ask away you lot, thats what Anglers Net is all about.

 

Tight lines

 

Alan(nl)

[Newt]

If you fish from a boat, the best way I've ever found to remove all the twists from a line is to remove any bits from the end and then with the boat moving, play out line. Just run slowly enough for it to stay in the water and within a few hundred yards, you have line with absolutely no twists.

[Malcs007]

I have just read with interest the items on this page. I have been using Berkley Fireline for a while now and would be hard pushed to use any other line. I think the trick is to make sure that the line is, first, carefully spooled onto the reel. In the past, I have relied on a screwdriver wedged in a vice with the line around a gate post for a bit of tension. If the line is not tensioned onto the spool it will dig in with you first take or snag. I now use a purpose built line spooler. This gets it right every time and the tension spring can be adjusted to suit the line. I won't tell you where you can get one as that would be considered blatant advertising. Another point, is that I always use multipliers and bait cast reels which naturally spool on and off the reel in contrast to the twisting action of a spinning reel.

[Newt]

Malcs007 - excellent advice.

 

As an ex-fireline user myself, let me offer the following advantaged I've found with PowerPro when compared to fireline:

 

- smaller diameter for a given b/s

 

- slicker/smoother surface which gives me a little more casting distance

 

- not quite as stiff and less memory

 

- does not tend to "fuzz" and while that may not (probably does not) affect the strength of the fireline, I just don't like it

 

- will take colour from waterproof markers so you can make the last 5 or 6 feet into a camo line if you want