When to strike on a tip rod

[MatNewman]

Hi All,

 

I normally fish on a pole but recently bought a cheap tip rod for the windy days. I have caught a few fish however seem to miss more bites than I hook.

 

My question is when do I strike? Is it when I get a little pull? A tap tap? a Big Wrap around lol I know the answer to that!

 

The tip I am using isnt heavy so registers most touches.

 

In addition can anyone suggest a simple rig? I normally fish 6lb straight through to a 4lb bottom with a korum quick change bead in between. I use a size 14/16 with a hair rig. I have one of those anti tangle tubes above the quick change bead with a feeder or bomb attached to a swivel

 

Any help as always will be much appreciated

[Anderoo]

Hi All,

 

I normally fish on a pole but recently bought a cheap tip rod for the windy days. I have caught a few fish however seem to miss more bites than I hook.

 

My question is when do I strike? Is it when I get a little pull? A tap tap? a Big Wrap around lol I know the answer to that!

 

The tip I am using isnt heavy so registers most touches.

 

In addition can anyone suggest a simple rig? I normally fish 6lb straight through to a 4lb bottom with a korum quick change bead in between. I use a size 14/16 with a hair rig. I have one of those anti tangle tubes above the quick change bead with a feeder or bomb attached to a swivel

 

Any help as always will be much appreciated

 

Hi Mat, it depends on what you're fishing for really. If carp, you can wait until there's a positive bite, with roach/perch/bream/ etc. you may have to strike at anything that suggests a fish has the bait in its mouth. This could be as gentle as a tremble on the tip.

 

As a very basic rule, if you're getting bites and not hooking anything, shorten the hooklength. If you're not getting bites but you think fish are in the swim, lengthen it. If you're not getting decent bites you may want to try a smaller hook too.

 

A simple, effective rig is a feeder/bomb on a link swivel threaded on the mainline, then a bead, then a swivel. On the other end of the swivel tie your hooklength (lighter BS than your mainline) then a hook. I don't bother with hair rigs for this kind of fishing. If you use mono for your mainline and hooklength it won't tangle (braid will) so you don't need any tubing etc.

 

If you aren't getting any really obvious bites and you've tried fiddling with the hooklength (length and BS) and hook size, just try striking at the little indications. On some days that's all you'll get.

 

Another thing to try is leaving a little slack line between the tip and the feeder. A cautious fish will then have a chance to pick up the bait without feeling any resistance. Be careful of deep hooking though.

 

Hope that helps! I'm going to do more quivertipping this season, I rarely do it these days but I really enjoy it.

[gozzer]

While I agree with most of what Andrew has said, I have to expand on one point.

 

As a very basic rule, if you're getting bites and not hooking anything, shorten the hooklength. If you're not getting bites but you think fish are in the swim, lengthen it. If you're not getting decent bites you may want to try a smaller hook too.

 

If you're getting bites and missing them, lengthen the distance between weight and hook.

If your getting bites and they are not regestering, (ie, bait taken or squashed), then shorten the length.

Do this an inch or so at a time until you start to get results.

 

Changing hooks as Adrew suggests, and also changing weight can make a difference.

 

I just use a simple running leger for most of my tip fishing, never have used a hair rig.

 

John.

[MatNewman]

Cheers Guys sounds like a plan to me.

 

As a general rule what kind of hook length would you start with?

 

I always tighten up to the feeder / bomb and hadnt considered leaving a little slack for the more timid fish.

 

In response to what I fish for........I bait up with any one of the baits that I have on me corn / meat / pellet / bread / worm etc and dont really have a target fish. I love to catch all kinds and know that the pond holds a good head of most of the usual suspects except bream which I am led to believe have died out. I would be just as please with a small gudgeon as I would be with a large carp

[rourke7719]

I agree with the guys previously but would like to add one thing. I always used to use anti tangle tubing but one day whilst fishing at linear fisheries I was educated by a guy who is sponsored by Nash. He pointed out that rig tubing makes your rig much more obvious in the water than it would be if you were not using it. So I stopped putting it on my rigs, it made a difference especially on clear water venues. I know this is probably more carp angling orientated but I followed the same principle in my general coarse fishing and match fishing. Also when I thought about it the tubing didn't really reduce the number of tangles I got myself into anyway!

 

If you are fishing for carp and you find yourself striking early then sit on your hands until you really have to grab the rod.

Edited May 6, 2008 by rourke7719

[Anderoo]

I agree about the tubing comment. People seem to use it as a matter of course and it's hardly ever actually needed. Plus, as you say, it sticks out like a sore thumb! The fewer bits and pieces you have on the line, the better.

[MatNewman]

A simple, effective rig is a feeder/bomb on a link swivel threaded on the mainline, then a bead, then a swivel. On the other end of the swivel tie your hooklength (lighter BS than your mainline) then a hook. I don't bother with hair rigs for this kind of fishing. If you use mono for your mainline and hooklength it won't tangle (braid will) so you don't need any tubing etc.

 

So Anderoo, Mainline with a bomb / feeder on a snap swivel with a bead to another swivel to the hooklength. This means I was missing 1 swivel?

[Errrm]

So Anderoo, Mainline with a bomb / feeder on a snap swivel with a bead to another swivel to the hooklength. This means I was missing 1 swivel?

 

Just a quick question, I used to use snap swivels to allow me to change feeder easily but when casting anything over 10m it would tangle around the line.... anyone any ideas what I was doing wrong?

 

Errrm

[kleinboet]

I have a completely different method for fishing with 'the tip'. I use a slider rest for the front rest of the rod, and fish parallel to the bank. I wait until the rod actually bigins to move before lifting into the fish (I never strike). That way all the "nibbles and nudges" are ignored, but when a fish picks up the bait in earnest, the rod will move!

 

By the way, for windy days, I use my float rod fitted with a "sidewinder" and put the tip of the rod underwater!

[Anderoo]

A better bet than a link swivel, if you're casting a fair way, is a wide bore run ring (like the John Roberts ones) with a snap link attached, covered by a bit of silicone tubing. That's what I use, and don't get any tangles.